Bounder: Stuck with Bounder 35E large slide gear slipping/skipping teeth

[QuantumLeap]

Good day all, and thanks in advance for any guidance that can be provided for this issue!

We have a 2005 Bounder 35E that has the large living room slide with the Norcold frig at the back end...this slide has always been slow to come in, and we are aware that this is a known challenge for this model and year - also, the former owner also had the lift block modification done on this large slide to help reduce the amount of effort needed to pull the slide back into its closed position (but not solve it completely).

Our unit has been sitting for over a year due to the pandemic, but we pulled it out of storage this week for a shakedown stay at a local park...and after properly leveling the unit the slides ran out fine without any issues.

However, when we tried to bring the big slide back in, it started to move back in, and then popping noises started to come from the rear end of the slide, with the front end appearing to move in normally, and the rear end not moving really at all.

We stopped the inward movement, ran it back out (which brought more popping noises from the rear end of the slide), and found at that point the slide showed it was out of alignment...with the back edge seated against the wall, but the front edge still sticking inside an inch or 2.

Based on all of this, I surmised that the rear gear for the slide had jumped some teeth, and when I used an inspection endoscope to look at the gears at each end of the large slide, the front gear's teeth were deeply set into the teeth of the rail, but the rear gear's teeth were barely making contact with the teeth on the rail.

So, all of that said, while I understand where the issue lies, I do not fully understand how to get the teeth of the drive gear and the teeth of the slide rail to be closer together at the rear of the slide, so that (hopefully) the teeth slipping will stop...so I would appreciate anyone else's real world experience with tackling this issue, or referencing to online documentation, as to how to resolve this issue!

Thanks for reading, and for any replies...we are hoping to be able to leave for the next part of our trip in the next couple of days (assuming we can get this resolved)!

[QuantumLeap]

Replying to my own post to say I that I guess that this is not a common issue, since I've gotten no replies so far....

In my continued research, I've found all kinds of documentation regarding vertical and horizontal adjustments for the room, as well as the adjustment screw that determines where the outer edge stops on retraction, but nothing that references how one can adjust the drive gear and/or the inner rail, in order to have their respective teeth be closer together.

I did find in the installation document for this type of slide, there is a reference to potentially using "inner rail adjustment wedges", so I'm wondering if this unit used those, and if somehow that wedge became dislodged for the rear rail, causing the gap that now exists between the 2 sets of teeth? See page 6, item 3, of this document: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...pg-81-1291.pdf

Would be happy to hear anyone else's opinion, even if it is just confirmation that they've never seen mention of this type of issue before - thanks!

[77Travco]

I've heard of the really big / heavy slides having issues but I am not familiar enough with slide maintenance to make an educated statement here.
Your best bet will probably be to get it in and leave it in for the rest of your trip. Which of course sucks because of the limited room you will then have. Getting it in may involve removing the motor and getting help to push it in. A rachet tie down strap could possibly be used to pull it in from underneath. Then you would need re-install the motor so the slide stays put while driving.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Post back what happens if you can. It may help others in the future.

[CLIFFTALL]

Sorry I didn’t see your initial post. I had an 08 35E and remembered that there was a TSB re this issue for model years 2005-7. I found it. Hope this helps.

http://bec-ed.com/Bounder/SBA0267_Sl...all_Assist.pdf

[QuantumLeap]

Originally Posted by 77Travco

I've heard of the really big / heavy slides having issues but I am not familiar enough with slide maintenance to make an educated statement here.
Your best bet will probably be to get it in and leave it in for the rest of your trip. Which of course sucks because of the limited room you will then have. Getting it in may involve removing the motor and getting help to push it in. A rachet tie down strap could possibly be used to pull it in from underneath. Then you would need re-install the motor so the slide stays put while driving.

77Travco, thanks for your thoughts...we are thinking the same thing at this point, just get it back in, and leave it in for the rest of the trip!

Our current plan is to completely empty the bays on that side (which obviously contributes to the heavy slide issues, along with the frig), and use some crowbars on the inside edge to help lift, while we have more help outside pushing on the rear end where it lines up with the extension arm, all while using the motor to try to pull it in.

If that is still not enough to get it in, then your ratcheting strap idea could be where we need to go next...luckily (?) this Power Gear setup has pins that can be pulled which will allow for the drive gear to be slid out of place from the inner rail teeth (which we had already planned to do, in order to get the front and rear edges of the room realigned), so if we need to go with a manual retraction, using a ratcheting strap, both drive gears can be disengaged and the room can slide freely (once it is out of the lip), rather than having to remove the slide out motor.

[QuantumLeap]

Originally Posted by CLIFFTALL

Sorry I didn’t see your initial post. I had an 08 35E and remembered that there was a TSB re this issue for model years 2005-7. I found it. Hope this helps.

http://bec-ed.com/Bounder/SBA0267_Sl...all_Assist.pdf

CLIFFTALL, thank you also for the reply, but that TSB was already done on this unit, by a previous owner, and it has been helping with the slide not sitting so deeply in the tray over the last several years that we have owned it - this issue seems to be very different, in that the teeth between the slide out drive gear, and the inner rail teeth, are not sufficiently close on the rear rail only...which is causing the gear to jump teeth and not effectively move the rear of the slide (which of course is also the heaviest part, due to the placement of the frig). Thanks again though for your thoughts!

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by QuantumLeap

Good day all, and thanks in advance for any guidance that can be provided for this issue!



We have a 2005 Bounder 35E that has the large living room slide with the Norcold frig at the back end...this slide has always been slow to come in, and we are aware that this is a known challenge for this model and year - also, the former owner also had the lift block modification done on this large slide to help reduce the amount of effort needed to pull the slide back into its closed position (but not solve it completely).



Our unit has been sitting for over a year due to the pandemic, but we pulled it out of storage this week for a shakedown stay at a local park...and after properly leveling the unit the slides ran out fine without any issues.



However, when we tried to bring the big slide back in, it started to move back in, and then popping noises started to come from the rear end of the slide, with the front end appearing to move in normally, and the rear end not moving really at all.



We stopped the inward movement, ran it back out (which brought more popping noises from the rear end of the slide), and found at that point the slide showed it was out of alignment...with the back edge seated against the wall, but the front edge still sticking inside an inch or 2.



Based on all of this, I surmised that the rear gear for the slide had jumped some teeth, and when I used an inspection endoscope to look at the gears at each end of the large slide, the front gear's teeth were deeply set into the teeth of the rail, but the rear gear's teeth were barely making contact with the teeth on the rail.



So, all of that said, while I understand where the issue lies, I do not fully understand how to get the teeth of the drive gear and the teeth of the slide rail to be closer together at the rear of the slide, so that (hopefully) the teeth slipping will stop...so I would appreciate anyone else's real world experience with tackling this issue, or referencing to online documentation, as to how to resolve this issue!



Thanks for reading, and for any replies...we are hoping to be able to leave for the next part of our trip in the next couple of days (assuming we can get this resolved)!

Has the floor been changed which could make the slide ride high not engaging teeth good.

[QuantumLeap]

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

Has the floor been changed which could make the slide ride high not engaging teeth good.

Tha_Rooser thanks for your reply and no, no adjustments have been made to the floor during our entire time of ownership (several years now)...all that happened between when it was working correctly and when it wasn't, was that the slide out was extended (after being in storage for a while during the pandemic, during which time it was not extended).

I did look at the instructions regarding vertical adjustments to the slide out room, and did move the rear end of the slide out room both down, and up, using the jack bolt function, but neither movement affected the distance between the motor drive gear teeth, and the inner rail teeth, so they are still too far apart to seat together well - which results in the teeth slipping on the rear end.

[QuantumLeap]

Just a quick update to advise that we were able to get the slide in, in order to hit the road! We didn't have to resort to trying to ratchet it in, but rather unloaded all of the bays on that slide, had someone pushing on outside of the rear end of the slide, and used a crowbar to help lift up on the inside edge!

It still popped at few times and it jumped teeth, but seemed to do better after it was in 2-3 feet. We stopped it about a foot out from fully retracting, and used the alignment procedure to get the slide ends even again (pulling a cotter pin to slide one of the drive gears to the side, in order to manually adjust the distance of one end, to match the other).

Also while I was under there, I used the endoscope to look at the teeth of the gear and the inner rail, and while they were a bit closer together when the slide was further in, they weren't really seated like on the front inner rail. So my best current guess is that we when ran the slide out and it seated into the flush tray, that it somehow moved the rear inner rail upwards, to create the gap between the teeth, but more upwards at the inside of the slide verses the outside.

Bottom line, it doesn't appear to be anything that can be easily serviced, so we'll figure how where to try to get this fixed once we are back at home...and might even take it to the REV Group service center in Indiana.

I'll report back on this thread, once we get it serviced and can provide more details on what the service technicians find, and how they ultimately end up fixing it.

[Bajanbounder]

Originally Posted by QuantumLeap

Just a quick update to advise that we were able to get the slide in, in order to hit the road! We didn't have to resort to trying to ratchet it in, but rather unloaded all of the bays on that slide, had someone pushing on outside of the rear end of the slide, and used a crowbar to help lift up on the inside edge!



It still popped at few times and it jumped teeth, but seemed to do better after it was in 2-3 feet. We stopped it about a foot out from fully retracting, and used the alignment procedure to get the slide ends even again (pulling a cotter pin to slide one of the drive gears to the side, in order to manually adjust the distance of one end, to match the other).



Also while I was under there, I used the endoscope to look at the teeth of the gear and the inner rail, and while they were a bit closer together when the slide was further in, they weren't really seated like on the front inner rail. So my best current guess is that we when ran the slide out and it seated into the flush tray, that it somehow moved the rear inner rail upwards, to create the gap between the teeth, but more upwards at the inside of the slide verses the outside.



Bottom line, it doesn't appear to be anything that can be easily serviced, so we'll figure how where to try to get this fixed once we are back at home...and might even take it to the REV Group service center in Indiana.



I'll report back on this thread, once we get it serviced and can provide more details on what the service technicians find, and how they ultimately end up fixing it.

2012 35k…… Identical problem except it’s only the first 6 “ coming in that I have to do manually and then runs the rest of the way without problem.(going out is problem free).
Long stays I put slide completely out as those first 6 “ are up hill and difficult.
Short stays I do not put slide completely out .( leave 6” in).
Have been waiting for a post that aids in solving this problem.
Adjustment ?? Or other ??
PS: No one seems to be able to offer a fix.
Dave A

[77Travco]

Originally Posted by Bajanbounder

Short stays I do not put slide completely out .( leave 6” in).

If the inside (open) or outside (closed) seal is not seated all the way... doesn't that leave the space around the slide open to the weather?

[Bajanbounder]

Originally Posted by 77Travco

If the inside (open) or outside (closed) seal is not seated all the way... doesn't that leave the space around the slide open to the weather?

Not an issue with slide closed as it properly seals all around.
With slide out and 6” remaining and unsealed, I have left it for 3-4 months while wintering and have not had a problem including many rain storms. I make sure that the 2” rubber flaps are positioned out and that deflects the water.
PS: My RV is always levelled with a slight grade that permits run off (both AC and rain water) to drivers side, thus away from slide opening. Works for me, but I still would like a permanent slide fix.

[navigator336]

Is the slide a Power Gear? How do the rollers look? Possibly the bearing/bushing in one of the roller has failed allowing more clearance. It's been awhile since I've been under mine (2006 Expedition) so I don't recall specifically how the slide arms ride on the rollers.

[QuantumLeap]

Originally Posted by navigator336

Is the slide a Power Gear? How do the rollers look? Possibly the bearing/bushing in one of the roller has failed allowing more clearance. It's been awhile since I've been under mine (2006 Expedition) so I don't recall specifically how the slide arms ride on the rollers.

Sorry for the delay reply, but have been enjoying our travels...the slide is a Power Gear, and as far as I can tell, the rollers on the rear arm look as they always have, and they spin freely when the slide is mostly in (thus the bearing/bushing appear to be fine) - and when the slide was extended, the rear of the slide was sitting on the roller in much the same way that the front of the slide was doing.