Tightening sequence ?? See photo.

[nimo]

One of the pressure line coming out of the leveling jack pump is leaking.
In the photo it’s actually the second one from the bottom that is leaking.
Description of parts from right to left
1 oil line going to jack
2 adaptor
3 ‘’brass like’’ big nut
4 ‘’brass like’’ 90 deg. Elbow..
If I tighten #1 the leak stop but I’m also twisting the rubber line.
I have tried to loosen #3 no success so far, I figure that if I #3 is loose I might have a chance to get 1 and 2 tight but I don’t see how I could get the rest together without twisting the line.. Unless 3 is a tightening cap
Any idea..??

[Mentor]

Originally Posted by puzzegb

One of the pressure line coming out of the leveling jack pump is leaking.
In the photo it’s actually the second one from the bottom that is leaking.
Description of parts from right to left
1 oil line going to jack
2 adaptor
3 ‘’brass like’’ big nut
4 ‘’brass like’’ 90 deg. Elbow..
If I tighten #1 the leak stop but I’m also twisting the rubber line.
I have tried to loosen #3 no success so far, I figure that if I #3 is loose I might have a chance to get 1 and 2 tight but I don’t see how I could get the rest together without twisting the line.. Unless 3 is a tightening cap
Any idea..??

Those fittings are JIC swivel and you need to hold the hex on the hose with one wrench and tighten the JIC nut with another.

[nimo]

But if I tighten the JIC next to the hose won’t it unscrew it self from the bib brass nut..??

[GlennLever]

The area indicated in the picture is a swivel.

If you hold the hex on the hose side you should be able to do what ever you want to the fittings on the other side without the hose turning.

[Mentor]

Originally Posted by GlennLever

The area indicated in the picture is a swivel.

If you hold the hex on the hose side you should be able to do what ever you want to the fittings on the other side without the hose turning.

Indeed correct and I would add there seems to be a lot of wet oil coming from above and that source should be checked.

[nimo]

Originally Posted by GlennLever

The area indicated in the picture is a swivel.

If you hold the hex on the hose side you should be able to do what ever you want to the fittings on the other side without the hose turning.

I’ve been on the web site for JIC and I can see that hose line can have male or female connection. Going back to the photo I would assume that both line are female having each a nut attached to the line.. the bottom one being the first silver nut the second one being the first brass nut… ??
I understand the swivel principle, the swivel that I saw on the JIC site have a middle nut that you can clamp on while tightening on each side..??
From the photo I assume..?? That the second nut is a reducer going from small ‘’ line side’’ to the big brass nut just before the 90 elbow..??
I’ve tried to do like you say, to old on to the nut on the line side and tighten the second one.. But the only one turning is the line side and as I screw I’m twisting the line ‘’ not a good thing’’ if I unscrew it, the leak increase… that where I stop and went for IRV2 help
From the second nut to the 90 elbow it’s all stiff tight so my first thought was that I ever get able to loosen the big brass nut before the elbow I would then be able to do the adjustment on the line side and then tighten the first brass nut who must be acting as a flendg puller..??
As we are leaving in a few week for our fist experience, I’m really trying to understand and fix it, but I’m also scare of breaking some thing and causing a delay..$$$
It’s not leaking bad ’’ reservoir is full’’ so if to touchy I will live it as is…
Related question… is it normal that after leveling from front to back and adjusting for a low driver side that the rear passenger jack come off the pad..?? Or is it cause by the leaking line..
Thanks for your patience and help…
　
　

[Diesel Guy]

Hello look at your picture start from hose and work your way from right to left as follows where the hose enters the long sleeve is where the hose is crimped the next hex nut you see is attacked to the sleeve if you put a wrench on that hex nut that will stop the hose from turning then put your other wrench on the next hex nut that is a swivel fitting you can loosen or tight that hex nut that allows you to remove the hose for replacing of the hose and that nut will loosen the line.

[98FPA]

puzzegb, you have great info from everyone! It appears that this hose may be newer than these others since the style of crimp on the hose is different than the other two. I'm wondering if perhaps it was actually never really tightened completely in the beginning. I know when I replaced my hoses that I had not tightened them enough and I was getting a little seepage. JIC fittings are very good fittings and you shouldn't really have a problem if they are tight.

[nimo]

((''I’ve tried to do like you say, to old on to the nut on the line side and tighten the second one.. But the only one turning is the line side ...'')) by that I meant that the second nut, '' the one you want me to turn is not turning... it is jammed as all the rest..
even if I old the 3 rd nut ''brass'' and try to turn the second one '' the swivel one'' nothing moves.. and it's the same thing on the bottom line and the second line..
thanks to all and your patience, I will try again tomorrow...and let you know..

[Mentor]

Originally Posted by puzzegb

((''I’ve tried to do like you say, to old on to the nut on the line side and tighten the second one.. But the only one turning is the line side ...'')) by that I meant that the second nut, '' the one you want me to turn is not turning... it is jammed as all the rest..
even if I old the 3 rd nut ''brass'' and try to turn the second one '' the swivel one'' nothing moves.. and it's the same thing on the bottom line and the second line..
thanks to all and your patience, I will try again tomorrow...and let you know..

Try backing it off 1/4 turn and then re-tighten.

[Diesel Guy]

Hello I beleive what you have there is the swival nut is seized if your holding the hex nut closest to the crimmed line and that other swival nut will not turn you need to spray some or WD 40,liquid wrench, or the likes but that nut will turn. After spraying some loosen all let it sit for a while and then slowly turn the swival nut back and forth till it breaks loose if you try to force it when seized you could break that nut from the fitting then you will need to replace the line.Also if your extra exrta carefull you could put a little heat to seized nut but only as a last resort. After 50 years as a heavy duty mechanic I have seen this many many times.Inside the swival nut is a flare female fitting on the other side is a male 37Deg fitting that fits inside to make a leak proof seal some times when not tight stuff rusts preventing a tight leak proof seal after you get the fitting apart turn the swival nut till its free turning, spray loosenall inside to clean out the sealing surfaces and treads then reassemble and tighten holding the hex nut closest to the line to prevent the line from turning. here is my eamil if you need more help mar02@hotmail.ca

[nimo]

Yes, I almost put a bit of heat on it but decided to ask before, but now I will give it a try.
If I understand?? As the new photo show, the swivel is made of 2 part so the first part with the male tread must be the one that screw into the pressure line with the sleeve so.. the termination on the sleeve side (hose) must be female ??
At the other end of the swivel photo, we see female tread, so in my case it’s the big bras nut ( 3 rd from right) that must be screwing into this so.. If this is the case.. If I ever need to remove the hose, I hold on that 3 rd nut and turn the female treaded part of the swivel then the hose would come off with the swivel attached to it..?? Making the reverse process … (when you want to attach a hose, you first screw in a swivel to the hose and screw the other end to where it suppose to go..?? )
But… from what I remember when I was turning (very little) the line part of the swivel (close to the sleeve) it seam to unscrew it self from the swivel and start leaking.. ( by this new photo, that should be impossible) So that why I was so confuse as I saw it as a size reducer..
All that leave me a bit confuse, as a mechanic your self you must know the feeling when you understand the principal but some thing is not right..
That lead me to ask you .
If the new photo is what I have, by holding on the sleeve side and turning the second nut ( other end of swivel ) I would just unscrew it from the 3rd nut..??
My view of a swivel is a device with 3 nut .. 2 that attach to each side while you are holding to the center nut..??
My main interrogation is why when I turn the nut on the sleeve side do I get more leakage, ?? Is the swivel broken ? And I don’t think that it should be unscrewing it self ( unless I saw wrong..)
Your time and patience is really appreciated..
Question…
if I ever have to replace that swivel, will it form an air pocket and will I have to bleed at the leveler jack it self ( is it possible to bleed them ?)
Gilles.. (JIL)
　
　
　
　

[Diesel Guy]

Hello your fitting that your showing is wrong its only 1/2 right the one you have doesn't have pipe threads its all part of the crimp you would slide the hose inside the part that will be crimped by a machine the other end of the fitting has the swival nut and molded hex nut built into the crimed fitting its all one fitting just do as I say spray some loosenall on swival nut or some heat and you will be fine don't make the job harder the hose and crimped fitting cannot be removed after it has been crimped thats why they put a swival nut on one end so you are able to remove the hose when necessary. I am at work now if you send me your email I will send you some pictures of what you have

[nimo]

puzzlegb@yahoo.com

thanks