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10-09-2019, 07:56 AM
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#155
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Full-time Traveler
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smack
I have the same access point in the second to last compartment, but I don’t have one in the last compartment, which indeed would make access a lot easier. I’m wondering if that rear access hole was always there, or did someone cut it out? Thinking that might be a good way to go on mine
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There in my 2014 Bounder 33c.
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10-26-2019, 07:37 PM
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#156
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 232
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Pump Removal
Hi all,
I'm in the process of removing my VacuFlush pump from my 2013 35K so I can change the duckbill valves and bellows. I have the front outlet tube disconnected and two of the mounting screws removed. I'm having trouble loosening the two mounting screws that I can't see, but I have a tool coming on Monday that should help. (Any advice would be appreciated.)
My main question, though, is how to disconnect the input end of the pump. Should I turn the white hexagonal thingie that's on the tank? If so, which direction? What is that white tab that's sticking up? Does that have anything to do with taking things apart? (See picture below.)
Thanks,
MathComp
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Koni shocks, Roadmaster front sway bar, CHF (rear), rear track bar, 5-Star Tune
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10-27-2019, 06:22 AM
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#157
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 105
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Just feel around for the back 2 screws. I did it by feel with a regular Phillips head.
As for the fittings, everything on the vaccum chamber just pops in. Once you get the pump free from the mounts, gently pry or pull it forward.
I took out the whole tank and rinsed it while I was in there.
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10-27-2019, 06:34 AM
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#158
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agpopp
Just feel around for the back 2 screws. I did it by feel with a regular Phillips head.
As for the fittings, everything on the vaccum chamber just pops in. Once you get the pump free from the mounts, gently pry or pull it forward.
I took out the whole tank and rinsed it while I was in there.
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Ah! So that explains the first picture in post #128! I see the white thingie with two black o-rings on the end that goes into the vacuum chamber. Basically, you're saying you can just pull and wiggle, and that whole piece will just come out, right?
As for loosening the remaining screws, I was able to get my Phillips head screwdriver onto one of them, but I just couldn't turn it. I know from the ones I did get out, getting them started is tough. I ordered a t-handle ratchet screwdriver on Amazon, and I'm hoping with that to be able to get more torque.
Thanks for the info.!
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Koni shocks, Roadmaster front sway bar, CHF (rear), rear track bar, 5-Star Tune
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10-27-2019, 08:34 AM
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#159
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 105
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If they are like mine, you may he able to see them from underneath to get a pliers on them to get started.
Yes the fittings push in. I also found a tube of dometic grease tied to one of the wires on the pump. I used it to lube up everything going back together.
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10-27-2019, 09:55 AM
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#160
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Full-time Traveler
Posts: 150
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When you put it back, use hex head screws instead of the Phillips to make your life easier. BTW, my pump was (and is) only held down by two screws on the front. Since a MH is gentler than a boat in a storm, 2 seems to have worked fine since 2014. YMMV. A flexible extension on your drill is handy for the screws. Where mine is mounted there's not enough headroom to get the drill vertical.
__________________
~Nick
Durango, Colorado
2013 Jeep Wrangler pushing a 2014 Bounder 33c
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10-27-2019, 11:10 PM
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#161
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 557
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A better way to flush
I have found a better way to flush.
I put half a bowl of water in toilet. Then do my bizness. Then I hold pedal up to add more water. Then flush and hold for the 3 seconds. This seems to help eliminate problems. More water is your friend!
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10-28-2019, 05:46 AM
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#162
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavnTheWales
I have found a better way to flush.
I put half a bowl of water in toilet. Then do my bizness. Then I hold pedal up to add more water. Then flush and hold for the 3 seconds. This seems to help eliminate problems. More water is your friend!
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I usually do the same. It helps muffle the "explosion" that comes with flushing.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Koni shocks, Roadmaster front sway bar, CHF (rear), rear track bar, 5-Star Tune
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11-02-2019, 07:16 PM
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#163
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 232
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Update
Within the past week, I successfully removed my Vacu-flush pump, replaced the duckbill valves and bellows, and reinstalled the pump. After testing, it would seem that I have no leaks, and the pump seems slightly quieter than before. I didn't find any Dometic grease tied to any wires, so maybe the previous owner actually had the recommended maintenance done. The duckbills and bellows I removed looked to be in relatively good condition, and the coach is about six years old.
Now that I've completed the job, it seems a shame that I won't be doing it again for another three years or so. I hope I remember all the tricks I learned this time around!
Thanks,
MathComp
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Koni shocks, Roadmaster front sway bar, CHF (rear), rear track bar, 5-Star Tune
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11-02-2019, 07:32 PM
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#164
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Senior Member
Foretravel Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Home is Where WE PARK IT...
Posts: 6,018
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The have white thingy (as you call it) appears to have "nut flats" ... so it may be threaded to a thru piece on the tank wall...
Try un-screwing it before you try prying it out.. (IF the whole sheebang spins, then pry it out.
__________________
Retired truckdriver,
'02 Foretravel... "This Shack will do"
being pushed by an '06 Scion xB
SKP's of Box Elder, South Dakota
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11-03-2019, 03:19 AM
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#165
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlesore
The have white thingy (as you call it) appears to have "nut flats" ... so it may be threaded to a thru piece on the tank wall...
Try un-screwing it before you try prying it out.. (IF the whole sheebang spins, then pry it out.
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See the top picture in post #128. The white thingy with "nut flats" does screw into the black piece that leads to the pump, but the end with the o-rings just pushes into the vacuum tank. Once the tank is disconnected from everything else (including the mounting screws) a bit of wiggling and tugging will free the whole thing from the vacuum tank.
Thanks,
MathComp
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Koni shocks, Roadmaster front sway bar, CHF (rear), rear track bar, 5-Star Tune
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04-04-2020, 04:18 PM
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#166
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Currently Arizona
Posts: 65
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Can you tell me step by step how to remove the vacuflush pump? Not sure how to disconnect the pump from the vacuum storage tank!
__________________
Michael & Tari
2012 Fleetwood Bounder 35K
Full Timers
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04-04-2020, 08:09 PM
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#167
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdh1950
Can you tell me step by step how to remove the vacuflush pump? Not sure how to disconnect the pump from the vacuum storage tank!
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Once you get everything disconnected and the pump unbolted it just pulls out of the accumulator tank. Little bit of lube when you slip it back together.
__________________
2016 Bounder 34T Anniversary Edition
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07-30-2022, 02:45 PM
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#168
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Junior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 9
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Rebuilt pump and it won't stop running
I just replaced the duck bills, the bellows and cleaned out the pump and everything went back together beautifully but it isn't working. The pump runs but there is no vacuum. Can anyone help??
--what I've done, I replaced the duck valves on both sides, replaced the bellows and cleaned out the pump casing, replaced the o-rings, tightened everything back in, connected it all back under the coach (yes I am fortunate enough to have it under my bedroom..ugh) turned it on to see if it was working then put a little bit of water in the line and turned it on again.
It runs continually but the water is not leaving the holding tank. Does it take time to charge back up? Could I have done something backwards? (though I replaced as I went so I dont think that is the case.) I am baffled and in a bind now. :(
__________________
Living and loving life on the road!
2016 Fleetwood Southwind 34A
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
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