Bounder: Waste Valve Replacement

[chuckbear]

I realize there are many configurations of the waste valve so I am addressing the configuration in our 1999 Bounder. Both waste valves need to be replaced since neither will seal properly and anything in the tanks build up in the waste attachment point for the hose. When you remove the cap, it makes a mess. Looking at the way it's installed, I see no way of removing and reinstalling the valves since the pipes are all glued in place. I saw one video that suggests to cut one of the pipes and use a rubber connector to reattach the pipes. But I see no place where there is access or enough pipe to cut and use one of these connectors. Has anyone with a model like our found a solution? Here is a photo, not actually ours, of the type of valves we have. Thanks. Chuck

[h20ski]

I don't see a need to cut. Can you remove the 4 bolts and replace the blade?


3" Slide Valve with Gate Seals - Valterra T1003 VPM - Sewer Fittings & Adapters - Camping World


Good Luck

[chuckbear]

No, there are o-ring seals that go inside and there isn't room to insert the blades and the seals. Chuck

[PushedAround]

Chuck, those O-rings only protrude about 1/16" and you should have no problem sliding the valve back into place. I've done it a few times and it only takes a couple of minutes to change a slide valve.

[chuckbear]

With all of the pipes glued together in the configuration, there isn't a 1/16 to open them up. And that's 1/16 on each side. Chuck

[PushedAround]

Originally Posted by chuckbear

With all of the pipes glued together in the configuration, there isn't a 1/16 to open them up. And that's 1/16 on each side. Chuck

I guess that there is a little more flex in my setup, because my pipes look just like that (except the exit is pointed down) and I have had no problem removing them. Sorry that I can't help.

[stink]

One word "prybar". Mine are similar and will move enough to replace valves if coaxed with a small pry bar.

[chuckbear]

Originally Posted by stink

One word "prybar". Mine are similar and will move enough to replace valves if coaxed with a small pry bar.

I'll give it a try. Just concerned with breaking a pipe. Then I'm in deep..., well you know. Chuck

[Ramets]

I replaced my grey tank blade valve on my Dutch Star, and thought I had the same problem you're describing. But I was able to make enough room to get the old one out, and the new one in. The only P.I.T.A. problem I ran into was getting it lined up properly without the o-ring coming out of it's slot. But eventually I got it.

[c_oneil]

You might check if the 2 waste pipes upstream of this glued together valve assembly are clamped down where you can get at them. If you loosen or remove the clamps temporarily it could get you enough flex to safely slip the new blade valves into position. You don't want to over stress those glued joints enough to crack a fitting or glue joint and make a bigger problem than you have now. Force with a pry bar can be a good thing to a point but be smart about it.

[docj]

I replaced that exact same assembly last year on my MH. As has been suggested, when the outer pieces of pipe were removed there was just enough room to slide everything into place. It was a disgusting job but not all that difficult!

[Shellback1]

I did mine with this spreader/clamp from Harbor Freight. Just spread them enough to slide the valves out. 12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

[chuckbear]

Originally Posted by docj

I replaced that exact same assembly last year on my MH. As has been suggested, when the outer pieces of pipe were removed there was just enough room to slide everything into place. It was a disgusting job but not all that difficult!

Which outer piece of pipe did you remove? While the valves can have the 4 bolts in each removed, there is no pipe in the assembly that can be removed or I would have no problem. I plan to give it a try this weekend and see if things can be spread apart far enough to get the seals back in without leaking. Chuck

[chuckbear]

Originally Posted by c_oneil

You might check if the 2 waste pipes upstream of this glued together valve assembly are clamped down where you can get at them. If you loosen or remove the clamps temporarily it could get you enough flex to safely slip the new blade valves into position. You don't want to over stress those glued joints enough to crack a fitting or glue joint and make a bigger problem than you have now. Force with a pry bar can be a good thing to a point but be smart about it.

Everything is glued. Chuck