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pagosajoe · 06-09-2012, 12:55 PM

We've used our 2012 Discovery 36J exactly twice - the first time, two weeks ago, the electric water heater worked fine the two nights we spent in it. During our recent trip to Mesa Verde, we had to use propane because the electric heater function wouldn't work. Thank goodness the propane did! DW would not have been happy...

I've checked/reset the water heater circuit breaker - it wasn't tripped, but reset it anyway - and I can't find a fuse that has blown. When I switch on the electric function, the control panel red indicator light doesn't come on...but it doesn't come on when I use propane function either.

Anyone have a similar experienced and mind sharing how it was resolved? Hate to have to take it back to the dealer (again) 225 miles away...we just picked it up a week ago after lots of small and one major (water leak) repair.

Gary RVRoamer · 06-09-2012, 03:33 PM

Did you by any chance drain the water from the heater and then mistakenly turn the electric on? The electric heater element will burn out in a couple seconds if there is no water in the tank.

There is no fuse for the 120v electric - just the circuit breaker.

The propane switch has a separate light and it comes on only if the propane burner fails to light. Does your electric mode switch have its own indicator light? Seems odd, but many rigs do not have a indicator for the electric mode.

pagosajoe · 06-09-2012, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

Did you by any chance drain the water from the heater and then mistakenly turn the electric on? The electric heater element will burn out in a couple seconds if there is no water in the tank.

There is no fuse for the 120v electric - just the circuit breaker.

The propane switch has a separate light and it comes on only if the propane burner fails to light. Does your electric mode switch have its own indicator light? Seems odd, but many rigs do not have a indicator for the electric mode.

Hi Gary, and thanks for the note. The dealer "de-winterized" the coach before we picked it up. It worked for one night when we were camped out at Kirtland AFB to check out the systems. I have to presume they did it correctly - we had hot water in the morning for showers the next day, using the electric heater option.

Thanks for confirming there's no fuse, only a circuit breaker. There seems to be a "shared" single indicator light located between the electric/propane switches. My assumption is that it would be used for either source - than perhaps I shouldn't assume.

When the propane source is used, there's plenty of hot water, and the light is off.

Thanks again!

bluepill · 06-09-2012, 04:42 PM

The electrical element and its thermostat are usually in the "Rear" of the heater inside the house, and the gas components are in the "Front" on the outside behind the access door. If the inside can be accessed easilly (mine has a panel with 4 screws), you can do a voltage test. The heater manufacturer's web site usually has good service info. Google is your friend.

KIX · 06-09-2012, 04:50 PM

Electric/gas WH's are pretty simple. The side of the WH you can't see is the 110v side. Power comes first to the ECO (Energy Cut Off) or high limit then through the t'stat (non adjustable) then to the element. The usual problem with 110v is the element but that's pretty rare as long as there's water in the tank. The ECO and t-stat rarely cause a problem. So........in your case you either have a solenoid that passes 110v or a 110v switch that passes 110v to the WH. About all you can do since you've verified the circuit breaker is working properly is verify power is actually going to the WH. This is the point where a VOM and knowing how to use it is important. Other than that the back or 110v side of the WH will need to be checked. You may have to pull the WH to access the back.

EngineerMike · 06-09-2012, 05:17 PM

On a new coach, I'm suspecting a 120V connection that has come undone. On my Trek years ago they used cheap 'press-on' receptacles where the 12ga 120V wire pressed onto a metal Y connector that slit the wire insulation as you pressed the wire in. Years later due to bends in the wire & mechanical stress on it, the sire popped out just enough to lose contact. Could be that or a wire nut not properly tightened.
If you got 120V schematics from the coach mfgr in your box of coach data, you could trace that out to find the 'open' connection; I'd start at the heater & work back toward the power source (you could work the other way also, just gotta pick one & go for it; another alternative is open all the connection boxes you can get at easiest, this is all pretty random but you know there is a failure here someplace if you don't have 120V to the heater). If not, you could call the mfgr's tech support line and ask for the route & location of 120V wiring/connections that feed the hot water heater.

Clayobx · 06-09-2012, 07:27 PM

Not knowing what manf your WH is I will offer my similar problem with my old coach. There is an access panel to the back of the heater. Open it, on the back of the heater is a reset button, it is very hard to find. In my case just had to feel, a raised panel with insulation was covering the button.. Found the reset by calling the manf can't remember who but they told me about the button reset, pushed it problem solved. My coach at the time was a 2003 excursion. Hope this helps, calling customer service should locate reset and solve your problem. Happy sailing!

dajudge · 06-09-2012, 08:11 PM

check the compartment next to the water heater. i had the same problem. i found that there was a receptacle in that compartment and the 110 volt connection for the water heater had come unplugge.

SarahW · 06-09-2012, 09:34 PM

Joe--I have no idea why your electric water heating doesn't work, but as for the indicator light...on our Bounder, that light only comes on if the gas option FAILS to ignite. It's more of a warning light than a "heater is on" light.

camper33 · 06-10-2012, 07:38 AM

Sounds like you have an Atwood water heater. The heating element is on the back of the tank. There is also a relay in there that is fed from the module board on the front of the tank (under the cover on the front). on the connector on the front, check to be sure you have 12 volts on the yellow wire when the heater is in the electric position. If you do then the problem is with the 120 volt source. Go to the back of the heater and make sure the romex wires are tight in the wire nuts. Those connections are under the cover. I have found many that have burnt or fell off right from the factory. DO THIS WITH POWER DISCONNECTED FROM COACH.

pagosajoe · 06-10-2012, 08:43 AM

Hi Everyone, and THANKS for all the excellent ideas and suggestions! My apologies for not getting back sooner. There's a 7000+ acre forest fire just north of our home that's been stealing my attention away from hot water heater problems.

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That's our home just below the most intense plume of smoke. Fortunately, it looks like the fire fighters made lots of progress overnight.

I'll dust off my trusty volt meter and check out the access to the water heater. It's an Atwood 10 gallon model, but there's no information on it in the owner's manuals I received. Gotta go Google.

The next issue will be getting access to the "other side" of the heater. It's positioned in the extreme rear/passenger side of the coach. The interior has the washer/dryer stacked next to the heater, and hopefully there's a panel there without having to remove the washer/dryer.

I can "almost" see the back of the heater when I open the passenger side engine compartment, stick my head inside and look up. But I don't see any access there.

Again - thanks to everyone for the suggestions!

pagosajoe · 06-10-2012, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SarahW

Joe--I have no idea why your electric water heating doesn't work, but as for the indicator light...on our Bounder, that light only comes on if the gas option FAILS to ignite. It's more of a warning light than a "heater is on" light.

Thanks Sarah! There was no owner's manual on the Atwood water heater in the bag of goodies we got with the coach. I appreciate the tip!

SVTotem · 06-10-2012, 12:19 PM

Joe,
You are getting very good suggestions. Sorry you are having this trouble with a new coach.

I had this problem on my Journey, but your coach may be differently set up even though the WH is the same.

In my case it was actually the on/off switch on the wall. Mine is a large red rocker switch that lights up. My switch had failed, but perhaps yours just has a loose connection. It is the most accessable of the possibilities, so you might start there.

Given the state of our interstate system you will have plenty of loose stuff eventually.

Good luck with the coach AND the fire.

DpDave · 06-10-2012, 12:47 PM

Joe, first off, have a look at Owners Manuals

You may find the manual you are looking for there.

Secondly, my unit is doing the same sort of thing... propane side working fine, electric not working at all. The element has been swapped out for new, and shows 120v at the terminals... The only thing I can think is that it burned out immediately upon being energized, but I am sure the tank was full before the unit was powered up.

I am happy to see any suggestions...