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Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 09:13 PM

I've had my 2007 Bounder 38V Diesel since new and have made many upgrades and DIY repairs over the years but this has me beat.

Nothing but cold water, not the slightest warm on hot or cold faucet.

I have no Hot water at the tap. I'm not sure where my problem began but Fleewood uses a simple (at the time) on off ball valve to switch between fill and City and mine wore out and leaked so I replaced it but the parts no longer available so I used a B&B 2 way valve that to my understanding is a simple on off also with Only two water connections. Open it fills and when off your on the tank supply and water pump. I've made no other modification to the plumbing but a shop winterized it but all they did was drain everything and put the heater in bypass.

As it is...

1. All faucets are off, Shower head is off, water bay faucet is off, all to ensure no mixing.

2. My water heater is working properly but no hot water to any of the taps.

3. I replaced the Mixing Valve on the water heater

4. I've cleaned and flushed the tank over night vinegar and drain. Flushed with the wand.

5. I removed the water supply lines on the water heater to and from the mixing valve and to the water lines and flushed and cleaned them.

6. the Hot water By pass is the normal flow position and when turned to bypass the hot water taps do not flow, only cold side works in bypass,

7. The cold water flow valve is open that supplies the water to the heater.

The new bypass I installed out of the box but I noticed you can't blow though any of the three ports. I assumed it is temperature that opens the mixing valve not water pressure controlled and I know they are adjustable but assume they are close to right out of the box.

When I removed the old Mixing valve I cleaned the opening but didn't venture through the opening but I I think it's just an open hole to the tank it's self.

Any ideas?

SafariBen · 12-08-2024, 09:37 PM

The bypass and mixing valve are the top suspects.

It seems the bypass should run cold water to the faucets hot taps, in order to run antifreeze without filling the water heater. That is suspect, I would crack open the water heater drain to see if there's pressure in the water heater, then crack open the water heater outlet at various points to see where there is hot water pressure. The mixing valve could be a different style, defective, still have some plugs in place, or be installed backwards?

Cat · 12-08-2024, 09:41 PM

I had same model. Anytime I had this problem it was the mixing valve (this happened several times- I lived in a high mineral water area this would cause my mixing valve to get p!rugged up with calcium. The only time it was it wasn't the mixing valve it was my outside shower valve- both valves were open.
Have you drained water out of water heater tank to make sure its hot?

Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 09:51 PM

I've not but will. THe only drain I know of is the anode rod but planned on this tomorrow. There may be a drain under the coach floor but I haven't looked.

Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 09:53 PM

When in bypass the hot water tap runs dry. Is that not normal?

Cat · 12-08-2024, 09:57 PM

FYI 2007-2008 bounder diesels had problem where the factory did not strip the nomex wires enough to get a good copper connection to the electric heat side of the water heater. Because of this this connection would very hot melting insulation and even the plastic wire cover on the back of the water heater. I had this problem and so did several other people. It doesn't pop the circuit breaker because the circuit isn't exceeding the amperage of the breaker.

Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SafariBen

The bypass and mixing valve are the top suspects.

It seems the bypass should run cold water to the faucets hot taps, in order to run antifreeze without filling the water heater. That is suspect, I would crack open the water heater drain to see if there's pressure in the water heater, then crack open the water heater outlet at various points to see where there is hot water pressure. The mixing valve could be a different style, defective, still have some plugs in place, or be installed backwards?

I expected if I opened the temperature relief valve the tank would overflow when full but it didn't with the pump running I thought maybe an airlock.

Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 10:00 PM

I've never run electric side only gas

Jimfh · 12-08-2024, 10:03 PM

IS it normal for a new Mixing valve to be restricted? I couldn't blow through any of the three ports.

It's the 90029 Part that Atwood dometic called for.

Old-Biscuit · 12-08-2024, 10:36 PM

Verify you have water going IN the WH Tank.....cold inlet open

WH Tank Hot out has a Check Valve ....clogged/failed = no hot water flow

Bypass.......when in Bypass mode cold water should flow thru hot water lines
*Cold water bypasses WH Tank / Bypass connects cold to hot line

Side note:
Atwood doesn't use anode rods.......just a Nylon drain plug
WH Tank is aluminum with zinc cladding, so no anode rod required

Cat · 12-08-2024, 10:38 PM

With the pressure hi temp valve open. And the pump on you should get water out under the pump pressure. If you're hooked to city.water you.should get water out also. I think I would leave your pump running then go in and try shifting the blow out valve positions until you get water out. Then go from there. But you should definitely get water under pressure out. Let us know what you find. Safe travels

Jimfh · 12-09-2024, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cat

With the pressure hi temp valve open. And the pump on you should get water out under the pump pressure. If you're hooked to city.water you.should get water out also. I think I would leave your pump running then go in and try shifting the blow out valve positions until you get water out. Then go from there. But you should definitely get water under pressure out. Let us know what you find. Safe travels

I have replaced the Mixing valve and check valve now and no change and I find now the water heater tank is not filling. When I put the bypass half way between normal and bypass it does move water in to the tank so I know the fill port is not clogged but why does it begin to fill but in normal mode no flow to the tank. After the half way by pass measure I checked the tank and it it blew a blast of water from the drain under pressure but only about gallon or less. Could the Bypass valve be bad? Seems unlikely.

Old-Biscuit · 12-09-2024, 08:02 PM

Yes your Bypass Valve is Bad........

"normal' position water should flow into the WH tank

'bypass' position water should not flow into the WH tank but should flow into the Hot water lines

Cat · 12-09-2024, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimfh

I have replaced the Mixing valve and check valve now and no change and I find now the water heater tank is not filling. When I put the bypass half way between normal and bypass it does move water in to the tank so I know the fill port is not clogged but why does it begin to fill but in normal mode no flow to the tank. After the half way by pass measure I checked the tank and it it blew a blast of water from the drain under pressure but only about gallon or less. Could the Bypass valve be bad? Seems unlikely.

if remember correctly my bypass valves were brass and the handle could slip on the shaft. It happened to me but I realized it when it happened and put the handle to the correct position and tightened the retaining nut to hold it better. This sound like your problem. Let us know. But be aware if your heater has been heating the tank with no water in it. It will have popped the high temperature switch and this will have to reset. for the propane to light. again let us know.