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Old 07-22-2021, 05:55 PM   #1
JC2
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Pass Side Inner Wheel Oil Leak

It seems that "another" issue has reared its ugly head. Had to buy(2) new start batteries last week as the ones that were in it at purchase time were weak and not always reliable. Told the dealer to put in new ones before we left last week but didn't happen. Duh. When putting these in, I looked thru the bay door where the batteries were and observed a thin line of wet oil that had run down the inside dually tire on the opposite side. Yep, looked like it might be a bad seal. Had it fixed today. RV tech also said when cleaning up the area around the seal area, he thought the brake linings seemed to be getting a little worn and should be addressed by the end of the year. The coach only shows 42700mi on it so what could be up with brakes this soon. This coach was owned from day one by an older couple who apparently decided to quit rving. I have unfortunately found far too many things that were overlooked or ignored on this coach by the former owners. Am starting to have some serious concerns. The quality of our former Newmar DutchAire has this thing beat hands down. Kick myself in the butt time is starting to rear its ugly head.
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Old 07-22-2021, 06:08 PM   #2
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Pass Side Inner Wheel Oil Leak

Worn as in how much ? Something is pretty wrong if the rear brakes are worn at that low of mileage. An inner seal can certainly coat the inner brakes requiring the replacement but that’s not “wear”. Previous owner riding the brakes ? That would overheat the bearing and blow it … just spitballing.
I will say I bought a used in “excellent “shape coach 7 years ago and have spent 40 grand in m&r.. surprise after surprise so much for the excellent part. These things are expensive toys the day they are built and it is equally expensive to keep them on the road. The more expensive in the beginning the more to repair. Figure 10% of its value annually at least that’s how the last 30 years have been for me
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Old 07-22-2021, 06:46 PM   #3
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Your exactly right in what you say. We first started out approx 30yrs ago in a tent, then 25ft bumper pull, 1st 5th wheel, 2nd 5th wheel, Winnebago gas class A, Newmar Dutch Star DP, Newmar DutchAire DP, and finally our current coach, 2008 Foretravel 36ft Nimbus DP. We been fortunate as all but (2) of our previous Rv's had relatively minor issues so I am aware of ownership expenses. The last one seems to have had a number of issues that have occurred from the beginning and not over a longer period of time. We'll see how it goes from this point and revaluate later. I'll ask the tech again tomorrow exactly what he observed on the thickness of the brake material as I also think that 42000+ mi shouldn't usually eat the brakes too much.


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Worn as in how much ? Something is pretty wrong if the rear brakes are worn at that low of mileage. An inner seal can certainly coat the inner brakes requiring the replacement but that’s not “wear”. Previous owner riding the brakes ? That would overheat the bearing and blow it … just spitballing.
I will say I bought a used in “excellent “shape coach 7 years ago and have spent 40 grand in m&r.. surprise after surprise so much for the excellent part. These things are expensive toys the day they are built and it is equally expensive to keep them on the road. The more expensive in the beginning the more to repair. Figure 10% of its value annually at least that’s how the last 30 years have been for me
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Old 07-23-2021, 07:20 AM   #4
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Not 100% sure on a 2008, but

If you have Meritor disc brakes on that coach, there is a particular clay-based grease that must be used. And the brakes can only be greased twice in their lifetime. If the wrong grease was used, it can cause the calipers to bind, resulting in brake drag.

Shops not familiar with Foretravels (or fire trucks) won't know this.

Also, (again, not 100% sure this applies to 2008 or newer) if the slide pins haven't been regularly checked for pitting and replaced if needed, or if these are the Meritor brakes that benefit from helper springs on the slide pins, again the brakes can drag. It's cost some folks their rotors...

Meritor air disc brake slide pins and grease

Rear brake dragging
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Old 07-24-2021, 07:25 AM   #5
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After answering this yesterday morning on my phone, it apparently did not go through as I received notice from a moderator, so here goes again. Picked up the coach yesterday and they: 1. replaced replace an oil bath seal and round gasket of some sort, 2. cleaned up the effected area, 3. added some gear oil, 4. Adjusted ac belt tension which the dealer didn't do afte I requested. When I asked the rv tech supervisor again about the pad thickness had started to look thin @ 41000mi, he said the person who worked on it said it appeared to him that 75% of the pad was still left. Big difference. Now to figure out a workable fix for the infamous for the accordian material connections that are not wanting to stay stuck on the one slide edge. It appears that the opposite side edges from the connectors are velcroed on with one long strip. Maybe pulled that apart and store the thing until we get settled for awhile.





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Not 100% sure on a 200

If you have Meritor disc brakes on that coach, there is a particular clay-based grease that must be used. And the brakes can only be greased twice in their lifetime. If the wrong grease was used, it can cause the calipers to bind, resulting in brake drag.

Shops not familiar with Foretravels (or fire trucks) won't know this.

Also, (again, not 100% sure this applies to 2008 or newer) if the slide pins haven't been regularly checked for pitting and replaced if needed, or if these are the Meritor brakes that benefit from helper springs on the slide pins, again the brakes can drag. It's cost some folks their rotors...

Meritor air disc brake slide pins and grease

Rear brake dragging
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:52 AM   #6
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Now to figure out a workable fix for the infamous for the accordian material connections that are not wanting to stay stuck on the one slide edge. It appears that the opposite side edges from the connectors are velcroed on with one long strip. Maybe pulled that apart and store the thing until we get settled for awhile.
You are correct that the opposite side from the retractors is a long strip of stiff velcro. That's the interface you normally separate when you need to access the slide mechanism for any reason (not the retractors from their hook bases).

It's basically cosmetic - something to hide the slide mechanism from view when the slide is in and fills the small gap when the slide is out. It also somewhat helps to keep things from getting into the slide mechanism area.

Watch the driver seatback location/angle when you extend/retract the slide.... it's not pretty if the slide surround catches on the seatback.
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:08 PM   #7
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Not 100% sure on a 2008, but

Shops not familiar with Foretravels (or fire trucks) won't know this.

Meritor air disc brake slide pins and grease

Rear brake dragging
Still do not blind trust a shop that works on Fire Trucks. I had thought that was a good place to go since shop I have coach at did City of Houston Fire trucks. They had no idea about the correct grease, helper springs, correct way to adjust brakes or slide pins. After having coach there and having them work on it, I realized their way was to just replace caliper and all with new.
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