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Old 10-09-2020, 07:52 PM   #1
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Sewage tank rinsing help

Proud owner of a "new to me" 2003 U320 4010.
I LOVE THIS COACH! Went to MOT to purchase and Country Coach, and came home with this baby. My non-RV friends think I'm an idiot for trading a nearly new 2018 gasser. They've never bounced along I-40 in New Mexico.

So, here's the question...took it out for it's maiden outing last weekend, and all went well. Campground did not have sewer hookup, so on the way out I performed the "dump." Connected the hose to the water inlet for rinsing the blackwater (sewage) tank, and was met with blowback at both connections--evidently no water was passing through to the tank. The sewage valve was open.

Did I miss a step? Is there another valve I have to open to allow the flow to move through to the tank? I'm a bit of a germaphobe, so cleaning the black tank is a must for me.

Looking for help before leaving for the Panhandle and Arizona in two weeks.
Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:21 PM   #2
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Well could be 1 of 3 things

Hose connection....see if it has a 'check valve' like used on city water inlet connections. Check Valve failed and not allowing water to go in

Anti-siphon vacuum breaker device....typically inside bathroom sink cabinet...they Fail but usually cause water to flood bathroom floor

Spray nozzle in side of black 'holding' waste tank....clogged holes



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Old 10-10-2020, 05:02 PM   #3
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Which "2 connections" did you experience the problem with? There's a hose connection on the sprayer (says "tank flush" or something like that) so I'm guessing that was one of them. Was the other connection the one at the non-potable water spigot at the dump station?

If the plumbing is like our 2003, the tank flush connector goes to a PEX line then rather oddly plumbed up to the top of the tank. It does not connect straight back to the black tank. I don't recall (can't see in our pictures) where the check valve is, but that is likely the issue. You may need to disassemble the wet bay back wall to find it.
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Old 10-10-2020, 06:27 PM   #4
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Or that backflow preventer (check valve) is installed backward.....
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Old 10-12-2020, 08:40 PM   #5
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Sewage Tank Rinsing Help

Thanks guys--definitely some good info/suggestions here.

Spuds--the two connections were the one connected to the faucet, and the one connected to the RV.

Bob Caldwell--It could have been installed backwards. I bought it from Motor Homes of Texas which gave me some background on the rig. It was bought from them just a couple of years back (Interestingly MOT has sold it all four times beginning when it was new,) and the sellers had used it only a couple of times before the husband passed away. I didn't think much about it at the time, but when I went to dump a small amount of poopy liquid drained when I removed the cap--prior to opening the black tank valve. It's possible they incurred the same problem I did since it stands to reason the tank wasn't cleaned as completely as one would expect. MOT did nothing to this part before I purchased.

Old Biscuit Thanks for the diagram. I'm hoping to bring it in this weekend to load-up before leaving out the following Thursday. If I get time I'm going to break into the back wall, and check it out.

Thanks, all for the advice. Now, on to installing a baseplate on my Wrangler...
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:09 PM   #6
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The Vacuum Breaker Device is typically installed in bathroom sink cabinet

Supply water goes in bottom and out side to tank nozzle




Blowback at both connections on hose???
Did you have them screwed on tight?
Did they have washers in the connections?
Were you using a water pressure regulator for that hose?
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Old 10-12-2020, 11:37 PM   #7
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Yes, both connections were screwed tightly, but not enough to prevent some water escaping on an old hose. I've owned two other motorhomes, and had similar tank-wash setups. I also work with hoses and high pressure spray rigs, so I generally go less than full torque to avoid possibly breaking a connection.

Both ends had washers, but it was an older hose (was in the rig when I bought it.) Had the water been able to move through to the tank there would have been no leakage on either end. The "blowback at both ends" was pressured spray--imagine holding your thumb over the hose and turning on the water.

No pressure regulator on the hose.

I did disconnect, blow through the hose to make sure there were no restrictions on either end.

Also, the blacktank valve was open as this is stated on the side panel where the water hose connects.

Something restricted the water at the inlet connection, or just past it.

Your picture is interesting. Is this from a U320, or another model? Inside which bathroom sink did you shoot this? I was actually hoping to remove the screws in the panel where my inlet and the tank valves are, and check behind there first, but your option looks easier to locate depending on which sink.

Thank You!
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Old 10-13-2020, 05:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushpest View Post
I didn't think much about it at the time, but when I went to dump a small amount of poopy liquid drained when I removed the cap--prior to opening the black tank valve.
If you access the plumbing behind the wall, you will see that the distance from the outlet cap back to the tank valve is enough to let some material accumulate there. In particular (at least in our 2003), the length to the black tank from that cap was greater than that to the grey - it's basically the width of that bay opening - the outlet for the black tank was run parallel to the bay door, then joined the straight run out the grey tank to the connection for the sewer hose.

http://www.irvblog.com/foretravel%20...-Access-Hatch/

What bath configuration do you have (what floorplan)? That would help point to possible locations for the vacuum breaker. If WTB-type where toilet is streetside and approximately above wet/utility bay, check hamper behind toilet.

Might suggest Foreforums as a good place to see a lot of info on the care and maintenance of Foretravels.
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