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Old 10-13-2020, 10:21 AM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 16
1995 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser - Rebuild

Hello - My name is Angus and I'm new to the RV world. I just purchased a 1995 Gulftstream Scenic Cruiser on a Spartan EC-2000 chassis. The RV is an old-fixer-upper with 78K miles and 230 Hp Cummins 5.9 w/ an Allison 3060. The RV sat for several years and didn't run before purchasing (well I added batteries and jumped the engine before I purchased, it runs perfect). It has absolutely NO running brakes, which I found out the hard way!! The parking brakes work, so I was able to stop...

I was told this is the best place to start a new Gulstream thread. Over the next few months I'll post and document my restoration and rebuild project. I will mostly focus on interior and exterior, but I will also include some Spartan chassis work as well i.e. how I started the engine after sitting for several years and how I repaired the air brakes.
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Old 10-13-2020, 10:30 AM   #2
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Posts: 16
More Pictures!

I know what you're thinking...How did I find such a beauty!!
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:38 AM   #3
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Getting Ready for an Update!

I had some trouble with the brakes...but final get them repaired. I'm taking a video walk through this afternoon. It's been a very busy couple of weeks!!
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:37 PM   #4
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She's alive and moved into storage!

I knew the motorhome did not run before purchasing but I thought, "no big deal, I'll get it towed”. So, I called a few transport companies to receive quotes to move the RV about 30 miles to a storage yard. All the quotes were about $500 - 700 dollars, which was very doable. Then, no one returned my calls after they realized it was a class A diesel pusher. The price went from $600.00 to 450 an hour, way outside of my working budget. I spoke with the owner and to my surprise, he gave me two months to have the RV towed or driven off his property.

The motorhome has been sitting for years and it has extensive water damage, major soft spots in the floor, a couple of delamination spots, rot around the shower vents, it didn't run, no chassis power, the list goes on-and-on and I haven’t even mentioned the electrical issues.
Well, I packed all my tools and spent the day working on the chassis. Number one, get the engine running first. I have never worked on a diesel engine, but I watched YouTube for several days and figured it would be that hard. I disconnected the fuel lines, changed the fuel filter, and then ran lines to an external tank in the floor broad. All the videos on-line started and ran a Cummins the same way. Next, I changed the oil and filter for good measures. I had to purchase two batteries for the chassis, but after they were installed, I didn’t have chassis power. Lucky, I called Spartan a few days before and they emailed the wiring schematic, which was a life saver.
When I crawled under the motorhome, I found the “J Block” broken not allowing the positive current to flow to all the main components. My only option was to disconnect all the wires and bolt them together. I still didn’t have chassis power but the positive cable tested good with my DVOM, so I inspected the ground circuit next and found no connectivity from the negative post to chassis ground; I disconnected the ground strap, cleaned the corrosion, and the circuit came alive! I had chassis power but no power at the ignition switch. In the diagram, everything seems to flow through one “Master Relay”, so once again, I bolted all the wires together to achieve a “quick fix” and I was able to start the engine using the key. With the new fuel, the engine started up and I had power to the transmission! The air suspension started to raise, and it was looking more and more like a motorhome!!

I placed the RV in drive to get it out of the ruts and she moved with ease, but I pressed the brake pedal and it wouldn’t stop…Oh crap…I pressed the neutral button and pulled the air brake and fast as I could. Moving forward, the RV was parked parallel with a house; so, I had to maneuver the RV through this guy’s back yard without hitting his house, around a tree, thorough his front yard, and into his driveway all using neutral and the air parking brake.
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:57 AM   #5
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1995 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser - Sales Flyer

Find attached, the 1995 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser - Sales Flyer
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:03 AM   #6
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Spartan EC 2000 Chassis

Find attached, the EC2000 chassis wiring diagram (5.9 6BT w/ MD3060)
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:03 AM   #7
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Thumbs up Big undertaking but pays off

I know how you feel. We purchased a running 2000 Gulf stream a that had a leaky roof. Of course this led to a crap load of issues hidden behind the walls etc. Being an older coach does have some advantages.
The spartan chassis front ball joints after 2000 had major issues according to the chassis specialist in Orlando where I lived at the time. The older diesels do better with not having to use the DEF like the newer ones.
Of course the very first thing you need to do is fix the roof leak!!!!
Second Make sure the Roof leak is fixed!!!!!!! Can not stress that enough.

We ended up totally gutting our coach right down to the bare walls and started from scratch. We initially fixed the internal visible issues but then ended up rebuilding the whole inside. The great part is that we were able to upgrade and put all state of the art equipment like the 200K plus coaches.
It is much like remodeling a house once it is stripped down to the bare walls. The biggest thing not to mess with is the original coach wiring. Make sure you take pictures and label all connections as this can be a nightmare.
The 12volt system and the 120v system is easy to reroute and change, as is the plex plumbing. Make sure you use quality fittings and good tools. Great time for a new plumbing manifold. The on demand hot water was also a major upgrade as you dont have to worry about a leaky hot water tank. Change out your Grey and Black tank sensors to new technology as I did not do that initially and now am kicking myself would have been a snap when gutted just was not on my list. Also you might want to consider adding solar panels and new inverter. This was a great upgrade as my house batteries are always charged and boon docking is so easy. Once stripped down you can replace all the rotted wood in the floors and the ceiling etc. Make it your vision!
Once you complete everything take your coach fully loaded with fuel water etc to a certified scale and get the weight for each axle. The old weights will be invalid and you will need to recalculate the maximum load for the tires on front and rear axle.
Good luck and I know that once you complete and get your coach up and running you will be able to take care of those little problems that arise, and have the satisfaction and pride that you made it your own!
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:38 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=mblais44;5566561] See above.

Thanks for the great post! I'd love to see some before and after pictures. Did you wire your RV for 220vac? Thanks for all the advice and recommendations.

I'm getting ready to post a progress update over the last couple months.
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Old 07-25-2021, 05:13 PM   #9
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what is a "J Block" ? I have a 1995 8340 scenic cruiser I am "fixing up". and have a long way to go.
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Old 07-30-2021, 08:49 AM   #10
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Most j-blocks are / should be BRANCHING INTO 12-vdc CIRCUIT BREAKERS; SOME AUTO-RESET, SOME MANUAL, depends on circuit, e.g. steps, awning, slides= manual reset to repair binding before reset and not hurt repairman
(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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gulfstream, rebuild

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