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jjtjr · 11-18-2013, 04:16 PM

I'm looking for a chassis wiring drawing for a ford f super duty 1996. My windshield wipers and washer pump are not working just went out. I check the fuses and the control module all is good. When I turn on the wipers on or push for washer I can hear the relays come on. No power to motors. Any help would be good, leaving for Florida day after Christmas.
jake

Brockx · 11-18-2013, 04:25 PM

I see about 6 posts, so welcome. There is a Ford Chassis forum under the RV forums tab above. If you don't get some good info soon go up there and a member with the handle of SUBFORD will get you what you need.

jjtjr · 11-19-2013, 01:48 PM

Here is an update on my problem. I did some detailed troubleshooting on the wiper problem. What I found is it looks like gulfstream added a control box in addition to the ford wiper control. I'm not sure what it does but the wires that come from the ford wiper control go to this black box. it has a part # 66d-001032285-d91-g its mounted under the dash on the left side. Does anyone know what this does. I opened it up and it is a complex circuit with chips, transistors and relays. It looks like the output goes to the wipers and washer motors. I will do more troubleshooting tomorrow to see if that's were they go.
I tried calling gulfstream but parts were closed will try tomorrow. Take a look at the photos
Jake

jjtjr · 11-21-2013, 04:50 PM

Here is another update on problem. I called gulfstream and they said that the black box was made by Cleveland ignition. They gave me the phone # and I called I gave them the part number on the box. They said that part was old (1996) and not available. What they said without saying I was screwed. Since there was no part made by them. So there you have it. Don't drive in the rain.
jake

RV Wizard · 11-22-2013, 02:31 AM

Search out for a good place (locally) to have it repaired. If you will recontact Cleveland Ignitions and ask them to provide the schematic, a TV repair shop may even fix it for you. The other choice would be to contact the RV salvage yards. Good luck and keep us posted.

jjtjr · 11-22-2013, 06:34 AM

I did call and asked them for a schematic, They said it was too old and they didn't have one. TV repair shops are a thing of the past, most people just throw the sets out and buy another because the cost of the repair is greater then a new one. So this is what I'm doing.
OK This is what I started doing. I opened the black box up. Inside, it was made with discrete components (that's the good news). Most of the time the active components go bad ex: ic chips or transistors which this has both. Resistors and caps if bad will show signs of being burnt. So i'm removing one chip at a time, replacing it with a chip socket (future service) and a new chip then, testing it. Then go to the next chip. To remove and replace one chip and replace is about 1/2 hr.
The bad part, I'm working without a schematic. This is called the shotgun approach, which I don't like to do, but have no choice. So far I had the chips on hand. When the box was built they didn't use surface mounted components ,so the job is doable.

What the black box does is sync the two wiper motors, so they move at the same time. Do you remember in the old days when driving in a big truck or bus each wiper moved at different rates. One would be to the far right on the windshield and the other would be some were else on the windshield. This stops that. I guess in this day of age we like symmetry at the price of complexity.

I did call gulfstream and asked for the wiring drawing of the motor home which they sent, about 10 pages. They out of the motor home business they just build trailers.

mrv8outboard · 11-22-2013, 07:07 AM

You can try BBA Reman BBA reman. ABS, ecu's, throttle bodies, air mass meters, MFD and catalytic converters just call them and explain what you have, they may be able to repair it.

jjtjr · 11-24-2013, 07:06 AM

Since i'm still trying to repair it, Its tough with out a schematic. because I can't power it up and trace the signals thru the board.
What I'm doing is to rewire the wipes to the ford control box. I did this yesterday it works with just a one problem. It looks like the the park signal on the driver side is used. When it goes to park, the driver side is good but the passenger side may not stop in the right position. That's ok for now Its use able
for my trip to Florida. The next thing that i'm going to try is get another ford wiper control from a junk yard and use it to drive the passenger side, this will enable the park switch in the wiper motor. The wipers may get out of sync but will both park correctly. The reason I'm doing this is to use a ford part which will be available in the future, third vendor parts are a problem, they can go out of business.
When I get to Florida I will stop in RV dealers and see what other RV manufacturers use to control the wipers.

jjtjr · 11-25-2013, 05:08 PM

I worked on it all day today. I went to the junkyard and pick up a wiper control from a ford E 350 its the same. I wired the output of each ford controller to each wiper. This way there was one motor per control. The problem that happens is the input to the controllers are the switch on the steering wheel which feed both. At hi speed all works fine but at low speed it will only work on intermittent , so you don't have that function of slow speed. Both park in the correct location. It looks like there is some feedback from the other controller because if I unplug one the other works.
I removed the second controller and wired it up so one controller ran both motors, But also connected the park switch from the second motor to the same wire as the park switch for the first motor. This worked good all the functions worked, at high speed the wipers will get out of sync after a time. But that happened before there was any problems. On intermittent mode they don't get out of sync because they stop at the park position and wait for the next pulse. It looks like I'm going to leave it this way.

jjtjr · 12-22-2013, 05:48 AM

Here is the latest on the wiper control. The last items that had to be replaced were the transistors, there were 9 of them. The problem was since the board was dipped in a water proof coating it was hard to see the numbers of the transistors. A friend stopped over with sharp eyes and he was able to make out the numbers. So those items were replaced. The transistors were off the shelve items which I had on hand. The end result is the system is working again. The next time there is a problem it will be easy to fix.