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Old 08-20-2014, 08:45 PM   #1
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2000 GS Conquest sub-flooring replacement.

I just bought a 2000 GS. Conquest 31.5'. PO said there was a leak that was eagled and the floor has a "soft spot". I finally had some time to rip up the linoleum. I'm now scared. I tore up the floor from the rear bedroom door to where the carpet to the front starts. I'm trying to figure out what size sheet of plywood was used. I didn't see a single seam. Under the dinning room sets the floor was able to be ripped apart by hand. I was expecting to find some sort of joist structure but it's just the thick plastic underlayment below. Any experience, ideas or advice will be greatly appreciated.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-21-2014, 03:54 AM   #2
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There are some joist although they could be up to 48" on center. You will need to remove everything around the area (cabinets and walls) all the way to the outside walls. They you will need to install backers and joist for the new flooring to attach to. Fill seams with glass resin or rock hard wood filler and sand to even out to original good flooring. A lot of work but it can be done.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:42 AM   #3
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2000 GS Conquest sub-flooring replacement.

They you will need to install backers and joist for the new flooring to attach to.

I had assumed from some of the you tube videos that there would already be joists of some sort. What would you recommend for "backers"? I was planning on using 3/4" pressure treated plywood. I'm only replacing the bad areas. I figure I'll need 2 1/2 sheets of plywood. I also don't want to bring the floor up any higher. I was planning on adding some form of support through the walk way area if it doesn't already exist.

Thank you Mr. Wizard.
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:08 AM   #4
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Look underneath your RV. You will see some type of metal frame that supports the flooring. When building the RV the frame was constructed. Then sheet metal was laid on frame. Next is a layer of foam insulation. stacked on top of that is a plastic vapor barrier. Then 3/4" T&G flooring. Rest of RV box was built on top of that. GS did it a little different on some models. As already stated you will need to remove everything that sets on floor in order to properly repair flooring and find joints.
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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #5
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Just received a reply fro GS service team.

"Thank you for your inquiry. The floor is made up of 5/8" structurewood. They come in 24' lengths for us. You would have to replace with 4x8 sheets....and yes it is screwed down."

Didn't realize they would use such large sheets.

This will be fun. Good thing I didn't pay too much for the MH.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:24 AM   #6
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After ripping up the linoleum in the hall way I noticed it was still rather damp. I left it sit open for a week to dry out. Well we had some heavy rains this week, I stopped by and was happy to find the small area under the dinning table/seat had dried out. The large area was still pretty wet. To a point where when I ripped up the flooring there was visible moisture on the vapor barrier. I'm guessing there is still a leak. I suspect it's from the stove or fridge vent.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:22 PM   #7
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I sure hope I did not get in too deep on this. I finally had some time today to start tearing things apart. There is a lot more damaged flooring than I initially anticipated. A fair amount of the sub floor was still damp/wet.
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I do believe I found one of the culprits of the leak. It looks like when they cut the exhaust vent through the side wall they offset it slightly (and cut it too big). The back side of the exhaust vent cover had some green algae type coloration. The side wall delamination also spreads out from this area. The upper left corner screw was right on the edge and the left. Center screw was screwed into nothing. It's a 2000, think this would be covered under warranty???? (I wish, but is know no one has that good of a warranty).
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:20 PM   #8
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How is the wood flooring attached to the frame?
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:50 AM   #9
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The floor is screwed down with self-taper screws. Those screws mostly run into the "I" beam type cross members of the coach chassis. I know the big box stores carry the self tapers. I have used them on my utility trailer for securing the 2x on it. I will probably make a trip to Fastenal to get the same size that was used.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:16 PM   #10
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Ok, I know it's been a few months since I've updated this. But this is the first free weekend with decent weather I've had.

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Cut out all the bad flooring and followed the lines of the truck frame.

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So everywhere there is a seam there is steel support structure underneath. I have the same type of self tapping screws to secure the flooring to the frame. There is a spot that I'm gonna soak with some wood hardener. Then I'm going to glue and screw down some luan with vinyl overtop. Getting a lot closer.
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Old 04-19-2015, 05:10 PM   #11
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Spent this weekend and got the vinyl flooring put down. Still have to redo the carpeting around the entry steps and trim it out. Also reinstall everything I took out.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:34 PM   #12
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That looks great
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