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05-09-2017, 12:49 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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Adding electric to new outlet
Hi,
I found a blank outlet by my dinette and i took the cover off and it was a set of wires that were taped at the factory. So i put a outlet on the wires but then i noticed there was not current going to those wires at all.
There is no switch that turns on power to those wires and nothing i can find in the circut panel.
Any idea why those wires might be there from the factory and or how to hook them up so they are live.
Thanks
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-09-2017, 05:37 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Appalachian Campers Mid Atlantic Campers Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,622
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Well unless you were the original owner from 2007, I speculate that either:
- a previous owner started to add a socket and then couldn't figure out how to run the wire, or
- it is an original socket, but the coach has some sort of problem which became expensive to fix, so they just disconnected it
Either way, since the wire doesn't have any power, you are going to have to find a way to trace the wire back to where it should be getting it's power from. Alternatively, it may be easier to run a new wire to it.
I just added a new 120vac socket under my dash, so that I can have power for my laptop (running VMSPc) without having extension cords strung around. I routed the romex to the nearest socket (that was on the inverter), and tied into the power there.
__________________
DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
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05-10-2017, 07:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiawah
Well unless you were the original owner from 2007, I speculate that either:
- a previous owner started to add a socket and then couldn't figure out how to run the wire, or
- it is an original socket, but the coach has some sort of problem which became expensive to fix, so they just disconnected it
Either way, since the wire doesn't have any power, you are going to have to find a way to trace the wire back to where it should be getting it's power from. Alternatively, it may be easier to run a new wire to it.
I just added a new 120vac socket under my dash, so that I can have power for my laptop (running VMSPc) without having extension cords strung around. I routed the romex to the nearest socket (that was on the inverter), and tied into the power there.
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Spoke with the mechanic at the rv place yesterday, they will check it out. He said they may have added that blank outlet for a special purpose in some feature package that was not purchased with the trailer. But most likely the wire is laying behind the panel and not connected and i would need to get a breaker to connect it. I told him to go ahead and hook it up if thats all it needed. I really need it for my computer.
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-10-2017, 07:57 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,400
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Kind of interesting that you discovered there was no current going to the wires AFTER you attached the new outlet [smile].....
__________________
Old Scout
2015 IH45 Foretravel
2003 Alpine 40' MDTS [Sold]
New Braunfels, Texas
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05-10-2017, 08:47 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout
Kind of interesting that you discovered there was no current going to the wires AFTER you attached the new outlet [smile].....
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Whats more funny is that i was really very careful not to touch any of the wires as if they were live while hooking it up. Then i pluged in a vacuum to test it and then i realized after the meter no current... So i was totally careful not to get shocked from no currrent lmao...
i think i missed that part of electric 101 class that says test wires first...
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-17-2017, 02:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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I did find out that this outlet wiring is hooked up to 12v not 110. So rather than mess with the panel or wiring for this harness, ill be finding a close 110 outlet and running a new wire and link off the other outlet. Not sure why they would have a 12v wire in the dinnete area, no clue what it would be used for but i have no use for that, at least not yet.
LOL and electric 101a class was "also test for 12v" missed that class too.
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-17-2017, 04:29 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: "Murvul", TN
Posts: 1,665
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No offense intended, but you need to put "Electrical/repair work" either at the very bottom of your list....or better yet, remove it completely from that list....
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05-17-2017, 09:05 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrated
No offense intended, but you need to put "Electrical/repair work" either at the very bottom of your list....or better yet, remove it completely from that list....
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No offense taken.
I am ok working with 110 what threw me is the fact that im not used to having both as this is my first trailer. I worked with an electrician many years ago for two years so i know how to run wire and hook up outlets.
Today i went around the storage bins and any electrical box i found i tested to see if it was 12v or 110v and i marked the box. I also retaped up the 12v wire i found in the one outlet i was asking about and marked the wire with red marker 12v. (they should have done this at the MFG)
I traced it down to the storage bin near the rear of the unit. It goes from there to that outlet. Where it comes from i have not found yet.
What i will do for the 110 is tap off the 110 outlet in the back of the unit under the window and then run that around and add another box next to the 12v box and mark it 110v.
Then ill just change the already run wire from the 12v box to the 110v box and cap off the 12v, i dont need it anyway. This beats having to run new wire up to that outlet, i can just use the same wire.
It looks like UFB or basic Romex wire, ill check to be sure and check the rating before i use it.
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-21-2017, 03:34 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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LOL i had 110 on the brain i guess..
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-24-2017, 04:59 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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Wow this took all day but it was much easier than i thought it would be, just time consuming. I could not tap off the outlet in the back because it has a Pass & Seymour pressed outlet and it is allready full with 2 lines.
But it turned out for the better. I took the panel off (electric off) and found out where the wire went into the bay underneath. Then fed the wire down to the storage bay and across to the other side. Then did a junction box there and screwed it to the floor of the storage bay in a convenient place.
Then went from that junction box through the side wall, then over to the slide out, then through the dinette bench and then drilled a hole and went right in behind the wall frame and made it over to the outlet. About 16 feet of 12/2 romex with ground (this is underground stuff so its def good for RV.
Since i had to go in front of the wall stud and not behind it (only gap there was) ill just have to remember to tell any new owners not to put a screw in the side of the trailer right there or they might hit the wire which lays between the outside wall and the stud.
Got that all hooked up and then went back to the panel. Snapped in the breaker that i got from lowes. The other breakers are cutler hammer but Eaton bought cutler hammer a while back so i found a Eaton exact verson. Mine was a BD1515 and the Eaton one at lowes is (lowes part number 93764) 15 amp 2 pole breaker.
The break snapped right in easily (well with a bit of a push lol) and then i hooked up the ground (bare) to ground bus, neutral (white) to the neutral bus, and power(black) to one side of the breaker. So only that one side of the new breaker 15amp is used and on, the other side 15amp i left empty and off.
Turned on the juice and BAM 120 for my computer right where i need it... perfect.....
The only downside is that going from the slideout to the main body i had to decide if i wanted to go sideways or down and then back up. Basically i had to decide where i wanted the slack wire to be. There has to be slack so that you can take the slideout in and out without jerking the wire out. So i had to decide if i wanted to do this under the RV or inside it. I decided to do this inside so i went sideways instead of down and back up.
So this means that right beside the slideout inside the RV there is about 4 ft of wire on the floor. Thats OK, what ill do is just put a hook on the wall. When the slide out is out ill hook the wire on the wall and put a plant in front of it, noone will see it. And when the slideout is in, ill just unhook it and lay it on the floor so the slide out has its slack it needs to close. No biggie.
I thought i was better this way than having to penetrate the bottom of the trailer and then have to rig up a wire and spring gizmo like the one i have already. But that harness i have already is just 12V so it does me no good.
Finally i made sure and marked the pre existing 12v wire (in the same outlet) as 12V in red ink. Then i marked the 120V wire with black ink and also marked the junction box as 120V and also the wire itself again along the way back to the box.
And now i can plug in my computer at my new office desk..
Whoo hooooo!!!!! done..
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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05-24-2017, 05:09 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
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Most likely the blank 12 VDC was to be used for an option that you do not have such as a dinette light or possibly a power sofa sleeper.
I highly suggest if you don't own one already is to get yourself a decent DVOM meter which will test 120 VAC, 12 VDC and do continuity checks.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
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05-24-2017, 05:27 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SW USA
Posts: 927
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I have a meter, a fancy one that someone gave me many years ago when i was working as a electrical helper. I just need to learn to use it more than i do.
Yeah i think it may have been some kind of 12v feature like that which was not ordered. That 12v goes from that outlet up the wall to the ceiling light and then that goes to the ceiling light over the sofa and then it goes down to the 12v junction box and then to the slide out spring gizmo setup from there to the body.
At least i know if i need a new 12v outlet i can just add one easy cause the wire is already there just need to make its own outlet.
__________________
Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway!
The earth is round but the world is square.
2007 Gulf Stream Conquest Surpreme
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 5.7 HD cooling
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