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MJ56 · 11-12-2013, 06:13 PM

Driver's side slideout is just the couch. Curb side is dinette slideout. Queen bed. I haven't found anything that matches floor plan or exterior graphics.
Many things missing, like ID plates and looks remodeled inside. Signs of previous water leaks/damage, at windows especially.
I am really curious why this floor plan seems so obscure.

RV Wizard · 11-13-2013, 02:48 AM

Hello and

and to the Gulf Stream Owners Forum. We are glad to have you join us here and we look forward to reading of your adventures and experiences. I am sure you will enjoy the website and forums. Good luck, stay safe and keep us posted.
I can see it has definitely be repainted. You can call Gulf Stream with the vin # and request model identification.

Steve N Sal · 11-13-2013, 03:36 AM

Howdy and welcome to the forum. Glad you joined us. As already mentioned just call the mfr. with the vin# and they should be able to give all the info you need on that particular coach. Good Luck.

MJ56 · 02-24-2014, 11:16 AM

Thank you for the replies.

I took the advice and called GS. They sent me the build sheet.
Very pleased. However, it turns out it was built as a 1999 Sun Sport 8348.
I knew it was a 1999 frame, but the coach has what appears to be original Sun Voyager decals.

I was able to verify that my body style and floor plan matches photos of a 1999 Sun Sport for sale on the internet.
I also found that in the NADA guide, the 8348 floor plan was available in Sun Sport or Voyager, so I am wondering what is different or added that makes it a Voyager?
Anyone else out there with an 8348 floor plan?

MJ56 · 04-17-2014, 04:49 PM

One of the things I have identified is that all interior paneling seems to have been replaced. I was going to replace my broken exterior patio light and realized that I don't know where the switch is. My best guess is a rocker switch just under the edge of countertop at the end near the couch. I wonder if paneling is covering a switch near entry door. Any help from owners of a similar coach?

Also, any help identifying a model number for the range hood/monitor panel?
Mine is missing. All I have is a bundle of wires. I need to hook up at least a water heater switch. I believe it is a Ventline Product. The wiring diagrams I have seen, do not match my wires. Build sheet lists it as 21568 power vent range hood w/monitor panel. I assume that is a GS item number.

MJ56 · 05-01-2014, 12:30 PM

Can anyone help me identify which relay would be the aux boost?
I drained the chassis battery by running leveling jacks, when I try the boost switch, I don't hear a relay and with a coach light on, I don't see a flicker or draw on house system.
This is the first time I have tried aux boost in this coach. In the past I have jump started it. What I would like to do is try jumpering the cable to get started, or check for control voltage at the relay.
I have 4 rocker switches in dash. Marked with a lightning bolt, battery, a pair of lights and a fan. I assume the lightning bolt is gen start (gen is missing), battery is the boost switch, lights are clearance light flash off, and don't know what the fan is for.

RV Wizard · 05-02-2014, 04:58 AM

I believe it will be the one on the lower right and it has been bypassed as there is no conductor on the larger post on the left. The photos does not show very well on the lower left solenoid but it looks like it may have both larger conductors from the one above attached to the same post on the lower left. If so, the conductor on the top right of the top left solenoid should go to the lower right solenoid and to the left larger post that is now empty.
Since it does not sound like it is being activated, you need to check fuses or circuit breaker for the signal control conductor (small yellow). Good luck and keep us posted.

MJ56 · 05-02-2014, 06:55 PM

Thank you Mr. Wizard. I would not have noticed that, especially without a diagram. I found a typical B.I.R.D. diagram, it shows 3 relays, I have 4. Adds to my confusion so far. I agree that it looks like that wire has been moved.
I have a new voltmeter today, so I can start hunting.
The only thing I have learned is that the upper 2 relays are probably the batt disconnects, and the isolator is one of the other 2. I believe I know what the fuses are. I know the relay lower left ends up feeding the fuse panel to the left. I am unsure if those would be house or chassis fuses, I have another 12V panel under the bed near convertor.
If I knew that or had a diagram, I could identify things much quicker.

The B.I.R.D. diagram shows a module wire going to ignition. In other pics I can see that on mine, that wire goes into the bundle left of fuses but is tapped off and wrraped in tape with a pink wire goig to the control lug on the lower left solenoid. If that helps identify that relay. In the diagram, a wire goes from module to control lug on isolator relay. On mine, it goes into that bundle on left and I can't trace in pics, where it comes out, maybe at upper left relay?

Any guesses on what the gain would be to jumper as suspected?

RV Wizard · 05-03-2014, 02:38 AM

The upper two solenoids are your battery disconnects. I think the lower left is the isolator or charging solenoid and the one on the lower right to be the emergency start or boost solenoid.

MJ56 · 05-05-2014, 10:26 PM

Today, I made a wiring diagram of what I have and checked voltages at relays, etc. I did these tests while on shore power and with a charger on chassis battery.Got some answers and some questions.

I found a fuse diagram, labeled bottom fuseblock. It matches the lower half of fuseblock on left in pic. It gets power through the lower left relay (with pink IGN wire to control lug)This relay gets power from the left lug of the disconnect, battery power goes to the right lug. (i assume disconnect is NC, normally closed) There appears to be no power to this fuseblock unless ignition is on. It powers the step override, mirrors, jacks and heater control and defrost fan.
(steps retract when IGN turned on, don't know about mirrors or defrost fans(overhead fans are missing) Don't know which heater control it is for, must not be furnace, that works when IGN is off.

I assume this makes the relay on the left, the isolator relay and the one on the right to be the boost relay. If that cable was moved from boost relay to the isolator, it would in effect be bypassing the chassis disconnect. If it were moved back, it appears it would connect house to chassis when boost relay is activated (assuming NO normally open) The boost relay was hot to touch. I measured coach charge voltage (13.32) on right lug, about 8v on the left lug that has no connector on it. I disconnected the feed from house battery (right lug) to see if it cools down. After removing power,I measured 0v on left lug. I assume this shouldn't be hot with no apparent load. And now it gets confusing. I measured 12.45v at the control lug with yellow wire from BIRD module, labeled relay and shown in the BIRD diagram as going to the isolator relay and shows a boost switch feeding the same control lug. So, it appears in the BIRD diagram, they use one relay for isolator and boost. In mine, they are 2 separate relays.

My questions:
If there is one cable from the chassis battery and one from the coach battery, into the disconnects, are the alternator and convertor wired to the batteries and therefore through this same cable or is the alternator or convertor power coming into this panel through one of the 120A fuses?
What are these fuse feeding?
There are 2 of them, both are fed from house battery, one is barely visible in bottom right corner of pic. It tested as open or blown fuse. The other is near, on right side wall, and fuse is good, wire goes up and the left, into a big harness and out of compartment, same as blown fuse.

What further testing can I do on the boost relay, before I replace it and move that cable back?
Per my original question, to jumper across the boost relay, I would move that cable to the right lug for a boost but not want to leave it connected all the time?

RV Wizard · 05-06-2014, 03:08 AM

Go to iRV2 Forums - Files - BIRD and read up on how and when things are energized.
The fuse block (and fuses) are energized as per design from the ignition source and the solenoid.
The large 120 fuses and or any circuit breakers are to protect the conductors in the event of a short circuit. They are usually within 18" of a battery source and feed loads that can be slideouts, leveling, inverters, chargers, or any larger loads. There can be other fuses downstream as well. It can get quite complicated, especially if any wiring changes were made; bypassing original designs. The best advice I can give is to "keep it simple"; at least to start with. Get a good understanding of how a system and its components are supposed to work before making any changes. Document original configuration and the changes made with photos, so if need be you can change it back.

MJ56 · 05-06-2014, 11:17 AM

Again, thank you, Your responses are appreciated and keeping me on the right track. I already have that document, it is the BIRD diagram I have been referring to. It confused me at first because it shows the isolator relay functioning as the boost relay also. Mine appear to be separate, boost controlled by a yellow wire from the module labeled relay coil, the other controlled by a pink wire from the module labeled ignition.
I understand the boost system well enough to see that the boost relay should have a connection to both battery systems, on opposing sides of the relay, that is connecting the batteries when coil is activated. This is why the cable should be put back on that bare lug.
I checked this morning and I found that the relay was still hot, having only the control wire attached. This should mean that the module is sensing charge voltage on coach batteries and activating coil to try to charge chassis battery. (Or the boost switch is stuck or wired to be on all the time) I assume it is normal for this relay to be hot or energized while on shore power and convertor/charger is on, or if the engine has been running for a long time.
My question now is with the other relay. It is activated by the pink wire from ignition. It appears to connect chassis power to feed the bottom fuseblock only. Why would this fuseblock have it's own relay? It does not appear to be the isolator, it has no connection to coach power. The pink control wire appears to be a feed when ignition is on, activating this relay and also feeding input to module. Assuming that the only output to relay from module is the one labeled relay coil, this would allow the boost relay to work as the isolator, when engine is running and sending charge voltage for the 2 1/2 minutes.

I can deal with the fuse. I want to identify what is not working first, to determine why fuse is blown and prevent blowing another one. (NOTE) I think I should refer to them as breakers, the one that is working has a red button that appears to be a reset. The "blown" fuse doesn't have the red button, it may be broken off. More testing today, resuls will follow.

RV Wizard · 05-07-2014, 03:39 AM

Not all of the circuit breaker will have a red button and it does not reset the breaker but in fact will trip it off. To reset these, a lever type handle will pop down (if mounted vertical) and to reset them, you push it back up into its housing.
Circuit breakers that do not have a red button and/or a reset lever are automatic reset breakers and will reset themself after some seconds of being off.
The ignition solenoid is used to turn a multitude of apparatuses on and off and not put all this load through the ignition switch; it could not handle it. This stuff is turned off when you park to prevent the battery from being drained.
Many times the boost solenoid is also the charging solenoid. These are continuous duty and will get quite warm just from the coil inside being powered, even if the load is taken away. Good luck with the testing.

MJ56 · 05-07-2014, 11:25 PM

More mysteries ...
Yesterday I shut off the 120v breaker marked convertor, measured charge voltage after but I figured batteries would settle over time. This morning it was still reading as charging. I need to get under the bed and verify convertor is off/on.

I also tested for voltage coming out of the relay. Previously I got approx 8v, Today I got approx 11v with 13.32 coming in to relay. I suspect bad contacts. I appreciate the fact that if working properly, this will keep the chassis battery charged, being on shore power full time. But, I don't like the idea of that relay being hot all the time. I do like the idea of swapping switches with the defrost fan on/off and remove the BIRD from the system. Then, if I wanted a boost or to top off the chassis battery once a week or before I travel, I could turn the switch on overnight. For my use, I don't think I'll need coach charging while driving.

I looked closer at the breakers, still thinking one is broken off, tried pushing the good one, hard to push but went in, no click, sprung back out. Tested again and got no voltage. So far, stumped. Not aware of anything not working or unpowered. (I will post a pic)

Last but not least, Turned on the AC today. I have one thermostat on the end of kit cabinets. It is for furnace and AC. Only the front unit came on. Can't find a thermostat for the rear unit. Nothing in the manuals to indicate they are both tied to one thermostat.
Also, please refer to my post on 4-17. I still haven't found a switch for patio light.