Water Heater Anode Replacement

[quikduk]

I wanted to drain my WH the other day before it actually got below 38 degrees (It got to between 28-31 last night). I realized that the only way to do this was to remove the anode from the bottom-center of the WH, from the outside.

After I removed it, I discovered that it was shot.



I stuck the hose nozzle in the opening and blasted a bit of water in there. I then ran the coach water pump to help flush out the remaining debris. I also had to use a pick to scrape the calcium-carbonate residue off of the threads and around the anode hole, as well as use brass and stainless parts brushes to "finish-clean" the orifice.

I then added some liquid teflon pipe thread sealant to the anode threads and installed the new anode. I forgot to take these pics since it was cold and windy outside when I was doing this work.

The anode is actually a piece of aluminum alloy bar that is pressed on to the steel shaft in the photo...which is in turn welded to the nut on the end. The aluminum is the sacrificial part and is designed to corrode instead of the water tank. Apparently mine did its job but...it should have been replaced before it eroded this far.

I will now remove and check this part anually. I was also thinking of using a gun bore scope to see into the WH tank to check on its integrity.

[quikduk]

I wanted to drain my WH the other day before it actually got below 38 degrees (It got to between 28-31 last night). I realized that the only way to do this was to remove the anode from the bottom-center of the WH, from the outside.

After I removed it, I discovered that it was shot.



I stuck the hose nozzle in the opening and blasted a bit of water in there. I then ran the coach water pump to help flush out the remaining debris. I also had to use a pick to scrape the calcium-carbonate residue off of the threads and around the anode hole, as well as use brass and stainless parts brushes to "finish-clean" the orifice.

I then added some liquid teflon pipe thread sealant to the anode threads and installed the new anode. I forgot to take these pics since it was cold and windy outside when I was doing this work.

The anode is actually a piece of aluminum alloy bar that is pressed on to the steel shaft in the photo...which is in turn welded to the nut on the end. The aluminum is the sacrificial part and is designed to corrode instead of the water tank. Apparently mine did its job but...it should have been replaced before it eroded this far.

I will now remove and check this part anually. I was also thinking of using a gun bore scope to see into the WH tank to check on its integrity.

[JC2]

I'm assuming your WH is a Suburban and not an Atwood as the Suburban is the only one that uses an anode rod while the Atwood uses a plastic plug. Another thing is CW has a yellow plastic tube that fits on your water hose that can be inserted into the tank for flushing. In the spring and fall, I use a ratio of 1 gal of generic white vinegar per 15 gals of water ie: 2gals of vinegar for 30gals water,and put it in the fresh water tank. Turn on the pump and run it through the hot/cold water lines and WH until you smell the vinegar. Let sit for 4-6 hrs, drain remaining water and refill tank with fresh water, run pump until no vinegar smell is noticed. Will keep calcium deposit, etc to a minimum.

[UFO Pilot]

Is there any reason not to install an adode in the Atwood water heater? I was looking for a drain valve for my Atwood and the dealer sold me a drain valve with an anode built in.

[JC2]

It is my understanding from reading posts on this and other forums that an Anode rod in the Atwood WH is not needed because of the different lining used in the tank versus's that used in the Suburban. I also have read that Atwood could possibly void any warranty you may have if a rod is used. We have an Atwood WH and always keep several of the recommended plastic plugs on hand in the event one should fail and use teflon plumbing tape on the threads to prevent leakage. Another argument I've read about concerning the use of a metal plug in the Atwood is the problem of using dissimiliar metals together(plug threads and WH tank threads). That said, I will mention that I keep a metal plug/draincock on hand for temporary emergency use only in the event I were to need a plastic replacement and didn't have one. This is all probably about as clear as mud.

[Latitude]

Quikduk I replaced me anode also!! When I drained to winterize it was about 30% corroded!! From what I have read and been told 30% is not too bad but for $15 it is done now I will see next year how much it is corroded and hopefully it will be every 2 or 3 years for replacement!!

JC2 Does the Vinegar work as good as bleach??? I like the Vinegar idea as the bleach smell is hard to get out!!! My system is relatively clean so I don't think I really need the Bleach!!!

How do you get the Vinegar into fresh tank??

Thanks Rick

[JC2]

In answer to your question , this is what I do in the following order using bleach and vinegar.
"I remove my water filter in both instances and replace when the system has been treated/then flushed with clean water".
1. SPRING & sometimes FALL-Using a funnel, I add 1/4 cup of generic bleach per 15 gal of water that will be put into the freshwater tank.(I usually put in 30-45 gals of water but sometimes will fill the tank full). Reinstall WH plug if needed, take off of by-pass mode, turn on the water pump, and then open each faucet inside and out individually until you notice a bleachy smell. Let sit 4-6 hrs, then drain(WH also) and refill freshwater tank with 30-45 gals fesh water, open each faucet again until bleach smell dissipates. Reinstal filter.
2. SPRING&FALL-Use vinegar method described in my previous post.
I have also read that adding 3/4-1 cup of baking soda to one gal of hot/warm water so it will dissolve/mix, then adding to your freshwater tank will help get rid of the bleach smell if the vinegar doesn't.
When I had WH's in previous rv's that had the Anode rod, I replaced it yearly regardless of condition(cheap insurance). I have come to realize that when you attempt to cut corners/delay maintenance on a RV, it will usually end up biting you in the but late.

[quikduk]

Thanks for all the great tips and replies. I am planning on using my coach periodically throughout the year including winter but I will bleach and vinegar the system the next time we park it for a while. I too will probably just replace the anode yearly. I think it was around $12 so cheap insurance.

I did have a question re: the water filter removal. If you look at this picture you will see my whole-house water filter. It is an ADC type cartridge so how do I take it out of the system? The only thing I can think of is to turn it off at the mono-block panel shown to the right side of that compartment.



Any thoughts?