2001 Affinity drag link ball joint boot replacement

[sbeers]

I have a split grease boot on my rear drag link ball joint that needs to be replaced. It is a Supersteer ball joint and I have a new boot. I loosened the castle nut (was not very tight), and pushed up on the drag link but it does not want to move. I do have a steering stabilizer attached to it, so the whole thing is likely very heavy. My next step is to raise the drag link with a scissor jack so I can replace the boot. My questions:

1. Should I just jack the drag link up enough to replace the boot?
2. Can this be done with the coach sitting on the suspension (loaded)? I do not have provisions to lift the coach.
3. Once I get it apart, will the drag link ball joint just drop back into the tie rod assembly when I lower the jack?
4. Is there a torque spec for the castle nut?



Thanks!
Steve

[twinboat]

You need a lump or sledge hammer to strike the spot I indicated , really hard.

That gets the tapered hole to let go of the tapered shaft of the joint. Once it breaks free, it can be lifted out by hand.

Replace the boot, stick it back in and tighten the nut. Don't forget the cotter pin.

[sbeers]

Thanks I have new kotters also. So I hit it towards the front of the coach?

[twinboat]

Direction doesn't matter, just hit it hard !

Anywhere along the blue line. You just need to shock it.

[Argosy]

If you have upward pressure it will pop out easier. Or use a pickle fork.

[sbeers]

Thanks will hit it tomorrow. Donated my pickle fork when we sold the house. Thought those days were done. I will let you know how it goes.

[Magna5872]

Could you please share boot part number,I need to replace all of mine. Thanks.

[arcaguy]

Originally Posted by Argosy

If you have upward pressure it will pop out easier. Or use a pickle fork.

I wouldn't recommend using a pickle fork, it tends to damage the joint. There are non-destructive separators available. You might be able to rent or borrow one at the local auto parts store but it may not be big enough. I would use Twin-boat's method, it works, and it won't damage the joint. Good luck.

[sbeers]

I believe I called SuperSteer for help and they directed me to register our coach on their website for warranty service. I did have the original purchase papers from 2013 when they were installed by a previous owner. Then they sent me 2 boots and cotter pins for free. They are very helpful and I never needed a part number.

[sbeers]

That was easy! I gave it a couple love taps, which did not seem to loosen it, but then I gently pushed the castle nut upwards and it just lifted out. Got the new boot on, and all is well.

Will be getting grease job in a couple days. Thanks to all for your advice!
Steve

[Boomper]

I'm not positive but most drag link/tie rod end joints that I've worked on in the past, allowed the drilled hole to be at the right height so the cotter pin went into he castellated portion of the nut, through the drilled hole and out through the opposite castellated portion before you bend the cotter pin over.

Your photo, and they can be deceiving, appears to show the cotter pin well below the nut. Is it the picture?

[dfuelman]

I agree with Boomper, I would add one or two flat washers under the castle nut, so the cotter pin provides a more positive lock on the nut.

The way it is now, the castle nut could loosen and back off one or two turns before it contacts the cotter pin, allowing the tie rod end to wobble loose.
Alternative would be to find a taller castle nut.

[sbeers]

I suspected as much when I took it apart. The photo is what it looks like, the hole is way down. I saw a couple others like that under there and they had bent the pin up into the castle depression to hold it. Should work but I agree it is not as it should be. I can add washers to get it centered in the castle. Thanks for the observation.

[deandec]

How important is that boot?

If one keeps checking the grease on the link, it would seem replacement could be avoided?

It is easy to see and to add grease when needed.