Battery boost solenoid?

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If less then 100 amps, you should be fine.

With that rating, it should be fine for house systems/salesman switch and would be a good choice.



But, certainly not rated as a battery boost solenoid to handle starting amps.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by wolfe10

With that rating, it should be fine for house systems/salesman switch and would be a good choice.



But, certainly not rated as a battery boost solenoid to handle starting amps.

I wouldn’t be concerned about the battery boost solenoid, it only consumes power when activated (while engine is running or boost button pressed).

Bill

[twinboat]

You can't use that type of solenoid for battery boost/charging/isolation service.

Its a latching relay that only needs a shot of power. A constant signal from the control, while used as a isolation/charging solenoid would burn out the coil.

In a boost circuit, You wouldn't know if it was connected or not.

[birdhunter]

In my case it's only the house battery disconnect solenoid that remains constantly hot. I don't know how many amps it's capable of drawing or what the rated are for the circuit. I'm not sure but I seem to recall a 200 amp breaker. I can look tomorrow.

[letsride4]

I installed the exactly solenoid Twinboat referenced, Cole Hersee 24200, about 6 months ago and have not experienced any issues. Yes it is only rated for 110 amps while the one I removed was rated 200 amps. At least on my coach the inverter is powered by a different cable than the one one the salesman switch controls. The HUGE amp draw, inverter, does not pass through that solenoid on my coach. I did change the salesmans switch to a momentary switch. I just went out and extended the living room slide. I saw the amps at 135 which does exceed the rating of the that solenoid, but extending the slide is a pretty short period of time. I would assume that 110 amp rating is continious and the solenoid would be able to handle more than 110 amps for short periods of time. The parasitic draw on my coach is high even after changing that solenoid, but every little bit helps.

[Rsponsford]

I also installed the Cole Hersee 200A continuous duty boost solenoids (plural in the case of my Concept) and I carry a couple spares. It’s not uncommon for them to fail and you can’t necessarily tell by whether or not they “sound” like they are working.

My friend has a 2001 Affinity and his boost relay is located in the accessory compartment under the driver’s seat. There’s a panel which can be opened and it’s inside. I would bet your Magna is the same.

[birdhunter]

From reading all these posts, clearly, CC put our battery boost solenoids in different places in different years and models. Mine is in the electrical Bay with the inverter at the back of the third storage bay, not in the electrical Bay under the driver's seat.

[rarebear.nm]

Different make/model, but I also replaced the boost solenoid with the Cole Hersee 24213 200 Amp solenoid. The old one, was well old and I try keeping things refreshed that tend to break down.

[Rsponsford]

Originally Posted by birdhunter

From reading all these posts, clearly, CC put our battery boost solenoids in different places in different years and models. Mine is in the electrical Bay with the inverter at the back of the third storage bay, not in the electrical Bay under the driver's seat.

They sure did. CC changed the boost system designs over the years and even located the boost solenoids in various locations from one unit to the next. My Concept has two boost systems; a chassis boost and a generator boost. Additionally, my boost systems use two solenoids each for a total of four solenoids. Mine are also in horrible locations bolted to the frame rails behind each battery tray. I would like to relocate them to the electrical bay but not sure it’s worth the effort.

[birdhunter]

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

Different make/model, but I also replaced the boost solenoid with the Cole Hersee 24213 200 Amp solenoid. The old one, was well old and I try keeping things refreshed that tend to break down.

Does the new one get as hot as the old one did?

[rarebear.nm]

No idea. The new one is rated for continuous use, so probably not a big issue. Hope never to use it.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

No idea. The new one is rated for continuous use, so probably not a big issue. Hope never to use it.

Your boost solenoid doubles as the isolation/charging solenoid so it's activated any time you are driving.

In many systems, it works both ways, in that it closes when either the chassis or house batteries are being charged.

[rarebear.nm]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Your boost solenoid doubles as the isolation/charging solenoid so it's activated any time you are driving.

In many systems, it works both ways, in that it closes when either the chassis or house batteries are being charged.

Not in my MH. I have a Victron DC-DC charger that charges the house batteries off the alternator. Just finished installing the boost solenoid two days and the only thing operating the coil is the dash switch.

In our previous Minnie Winnie MH what you say would be correct. Except in that MH it did not have a dash switch, but I had a short jumper I could operate the coil if ever needed.

RVs are wired in many different ways.

[TR4]

My solenoid works as twinboat described. It’s activated when it receives a ground signal from the boost switch or the oil pressure sending unit. As soon as the engine starts and builds oil pressure, the switch goes to ground joining chassis and house batteries.

Bill