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Old 11-10-2021, 08:30 PM   #1
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Battery boost solenoid?

Anyone know where this is located in an 02 Magna, what it looks like and where you can get one? I am looking at the CC schematic and it says it is in the service bay near the engine batts in the passenger side rear of the coach. I don't believe this is accurate since it also says my echo charger is there and it isn't, it's in the electrical bay with the inverter in the back of the third storage bay. Anyone have a picture of the boost solenoid in place? I'm having a situation where something appears to be tying the house and engine battery voltages together. I am seeing house battery voltage for my engine batteries on my Xantrex battery monitor (engine batteries are a few volts lower at terminals so this is not accurate) and I'm getting an error code 13 which means bad sense leads to the engine batteries. My Echo charger is not charging my engine batteries even though the green light is on. The battery boost switch doesn't appear to functioning suddenly, after using it a few days ago when all this began, so the battery boost solenoid is suspect since it would tie these two banks together.
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Old 11-11-2021, 06:09 AM   #2
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Rich,

FWIW, my bat boost solenoid is located in the chassis bat compartment behind a small panel secured by 4 wing nuts.
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Old 11-11-2021, 08:13 AM   #3
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My Echo charger gets its 12 volt supply from the house battery side of the boost solenoid. There are two inline fuses for the Echo charger. One is for the supply voltage and the other for the wire that goes to the chassis batteries. You might check those two fuses.

Assuming that the boost solenoid is trying to work when you toggle the boost switch inside the coach you could try having someone repeatably toggle the switch off and on and then go around the coach and listen for the click.

I know this is of no use to you but my boost solenoid and Echo charger are in the rear compartment on the passenger side. You might try the electrical bay.

The solenoid will be rather large and have two diodes connecting the two large terminals to one of the coil terminals (the small terminals) and a diode across the coil terminals. I believe this is the only solenoid with 3 diodes. Once you find the solenoid you can toggle it by grounding the ground side (no diode connections) of the coil terminals since that is all the boost switch or the oil pressure switch does. This is useful if you are trying to troubleshoot the boost solenoid by yourself.

With luck someone with your year and model of coach will jump on here and tell you the location.
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Old 11-11-2021, 09:13 AM   #4
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Take Johnís picture (Gatesway) and look in the area where arrow is pointing.

Bill
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Old 11-11-2021, 09:22 AM   #5
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Mine is in the battery compartment. You can see it here just to the left of the chassis buss bar. You should have large battery cables going from the boost switch to the positive side of your house and chassis batteries. There will be some smaller wire to operate the relay too.

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Old 11-11-2021, 02:04 PM   #6
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My 1995 Magna has two boost solenoids.

Both are mounted in the Electrical Bay where the inverter and house fuses reside.

One is for the Chassis Battery and one for the dedicated Generator Starting Battery. Both draw from the house battery.

Since yours rig is newer, the scheme may have changed......
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Old 11-16-2021, 02:47 PM   #7
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Mine is in the compartment with the inverter, on the 12v distribution wall. There are 3 big solenoids there, salesman switch, auxiliary air compressor and the boost solenoid. In my coach, both the salesman and compressor solenoids were energized all the time and hot enough to burn your finger. The boost is normally off, and cool.

When I installed lithium and solar, I added a total battery cutoff switch in the battery compartment, so I decided to remove the salesman switch solenoid.
I also removed the compressor solenoid, thought if it is that hot it must be using lots of battery power.
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Old 11-17-2021, 12:22 AM   #8
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My salesman switch solenoid is quite hot to the touch. Someone here said it's normal. I don't quite understand why it is hot, but yes I don't like it since that means it's using current.
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Old 11-17-2021, 09:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdhunter View Post
My salesman switch solenoid is quite hot to the touch. Someone here said it's normal. I don't quite understand why it is hot, but yes I don't like it since that means it's using current.
My salesman solenoid was hot as well, they didnít use the latching type, so to conserve battery power I bypassed it. Itís been a while, but as I remember it used about 4 amps.

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Old 11-18-2021, 12:29 PM   #10
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My salesman solenoid was hot as well, they didnít use the latching type, so to conserve battery power I bypassed it. Itís been a while, but as I remember it used about 4 amps.

Bill
Bill, I would not want to bypass the salesman switch thereby defeating its function. Is there a latching type solenoid or something else that would avoid using 4 amps and getting hot that would work that you can identify? Would that not be an option?
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Old 11-18-2021, 12:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdhunter View Post
Bill, I would not want to bypass the salesman switch thereby defeating its function. Is there a latching type solenoid or something else that would avoid using 4 amps and getting hot that would work that you can identify? Would that not be an option?
You can replace your solenoid with this one.

Then replace your on/off switch with a momentary switch.

Each signal from the control switch latches it open or closed.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...AaAqubEALw_wcB
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Old 11-18-2021, 10:41 PM   #12
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Bill, I would not want to bypass the salesman switch thereby defeating its function. Is there a latching type solenoid or something else that would avoid using 4 amps and getting hot that would work that you can identify? Would that not be an option?
twinboat has your answer. I was going to install a latching solenoid but decided on a manual battery disconnect switch. Itís connected between the negative on the batteries to the grounds. I had visitors to the RV bump the salesman switch (by accident), turning off power to the refrigerator. I wouldnít notice for hours. After the second time, I installed the switch.

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Old 11-19-2021, 12:15 AM   #13
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Thanks Twinboat and Bill, now I get it. Great idea! That solenoid is only rated for 110 amps though. The existing one is 200 amps. Would lower current rating be okay since it's a latching switch? I would also have to find a momentary switch to match my existing one but I think they exist since some of my other switches are momentary. My house battery disconnect switch has a light in it as well.
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Old 11-19-2021, 08:31 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by birdhunter View Post
Thanks Twinboat and Bill, now I get it. Great idea! That solenoid is only rated for 110 amps though. The existing one is 200 amps. Would lower current rating be okay since it's a latching switch? I would also have to find a momentary switch to match my existing one but I think they exist since some of my other switches are momentary. My house battery disconnect switch has a light in it as well.
What is the circuit breaker on the house circuit rated for ?
If less then 100 amps, you should be fine.
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