Community Forums

fzandome · 10-19-2021, 02:33 PM

When I first bought my coach in 2017 I found the battery support brackets were completely corroded away. You could not see this with the plastic tray on top of the supports but if I had crawled underneath during the "buying" process, it would have been visible. I used some heavy "L" brackets and tied into the remaining structure and used bolts to secure it in place. Probably not as good a repair as welding it into place but if it happens again, I will be able to replace them easy enough. Mine, I felt was caused by a battery acid leak or overflow as opposed to normal rust. I now crawl under to inspect that area once a year. That is easier that taking those heavy batteries out.

dfuelman · 10-19-2021, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fzandome

When I first bought my coach in 2017 I found the battery support brackets were completely corroded away. You could not see this with the plastic tray on top of the supports but if I had crawled underneath during the "buying" process, it would have been visible. I used some heavy "L" brackets and tied into the remaining structure and used bolts to secure it in place. Probably not as good a repair as welding it into place but if it happens again, I will be able to replace them easy enough. Mine, I felt was caused by a battery acid leak or overflow as opposed to normal rust. I now crawl under to inspect that area once a year. That is easier that taking those heavy batteries out.

I think the rust is a combination of both battery acid and rust from road salt thrown up from the tires. My coach was originally owned by a hunter would would travel to northern states in winter and I purchased from local that would leave in January to travel each year to Florida.

Don't put it off too long before you make permanent repairs, the steel tubing used is pretty thin walled to begin with and will give up without out notice as my previous owner found out the hard way. It was not a terrible job cutting out the old and replacing with new, just do section at a time so it does not lose it's shape. You can drill out the rivets if needed that hold the side on to get it out of your way. I just used wood blocks to hold it out while we worked.

Tortise49 · 10-19-2021, 09:10 PM

The fix looks great, and I’ll need the same kind of repair soon as mine is rusting pretty bad. But my question is whether it’s safe to close off venting to outside air with a solid aluminum plate when the big chassis battery (the one on the left looks just like mine) is the flooded lead acid type giving off hydrogen when it charges. I’m thinking Hindenburg. That’s why I thought the compartment was originally made with the open grate. Am I wrong about this? I’ll confess I’m no battery guru and probably missing something here.

dfuelman · 10-20-2021, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tortise49

The fix looks great, and I’ll need the same kind of repair soon as mine is rusting pretty bad. But my question is whether it’s safe to close off venting to outside air with a solid aluminum plate when the big chassis battery (the one on the left looks just like mine) is the flooded lead acid type giving off hydrogen when it charges. I’m thinking Hindenburg. That’s why I thought the compartment was originally made with the open grate. Am I wrong about this? I’ll confess I’m no battery guru and probably missing something here.

The Box must be ventilated in some manner for sure. My floor is not solid, the stainless is perforated so air (along with dust and dirt and everything else) can circulate. The amount of ventilation is up for debate. In racing, the batteries are often stored in boxes inside the trunk of the car, with nothing more than a vent hose run to the outside for acid gas to escape. You could likely enclose more of the floor as long as you added a air intake and exhaust port somewhere.

Burfman · 11-01-2021, 03:55 PM

FWIW category: When I cleaned up my batt box (nowhere nice as yours, great job) I left the original type expanded metal for ventilation. To keep out the dirt and dust I bought some filter media and rolled it up and stuffed in between the wall and the batteries. Does a good job and still allows ventilation of the cabinet. Usually change them out each year at maintenance time or sooner if in dusty conditions.

dfuelman · 11-01-2021, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burfman

FWIW category: When I cleaned up my batt box (nowhere nice as yours, great job) I left the original type expanded metal for ventilation. To keep out the dirt and dust I bought some filter media and rolled it up and stuffed in between the wall and the batteries. Does a good job and still allows ventilation of the cabinet. Usually change them out each year at maintenance time or sooner if in dusty conditions.

I considered, and have not completely given up on the same idea. Wanted to use the filter material that resembles Scotchbrite and line the box with it. I would now like to fill the voids between the frame rails that support the floor of the box, with filter material if I could come up with a way to retain the filter element.

The box stays filthy with nothing keeping the dust out.

Burfman · 11-01-2021, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dfuelman

I considered, and have not completely given up on the same idea. Wanted to use the filter material that resembles Scotchbrite and line the box with it. I would now like to fill the voids between the frame rails that support the floor of the box, with filter material if I could come up with a way to retain the filter element.

The box stays filthy with nothing keeping the dust out.

So being in the commercial HVAC business for 30+ years I used one of the better filter lines. The filters are Tri-Dim. They make all kinds and I used them exclusively for our commercial accounts. They make two and three ply media filters. The advantage is that the final ply has a "tackifier" sprayed onto the media. This holds any particles from releasing and has kept my batt box fairly dust free. Not 100% free but a heck of a lot cleaner than just the expanded metal. I currently have the three ply in my home in AZ and they only require a change once a year. You should be able to find them at www.tridim.com. I just get a 30" X 20" and take the media out of the wire frame, roll it up and stuff it in the slot. You can use either the two or three ply, just make sure it has the tackifier on it.

Hope his helps.

Dave 430 · 11-04-2021, 10:12 AM

DFuelman, as you I have been trying to find a decent 6 volt battery that would fit into the area where my 2 D's fit. So far no luck. hopefully someone on here will come up with a fix. I have not looked into the $1000 batteries that are being advertised everywhere. Thanks for ur input.

dfuelman · 11-04-2021, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave 430

DFuelman, as you I have been trying to find a decent 6 volt battery that would fit into the area where my 2 D's fit. So far no luck. hopefully someone on here will come up with a fix. I have not looked into the $1000 batteries that are being advertised everywhere. Thanks for ur input.

Dave 430, I have not replaced the batteries yet, as it is pretty much the end of the season for me. I will likely do it in the spring when I break out the coach for next season. I don't want to install new batteries just to sit all winter.

I can tell you I will NOT be installing $1000 batteries, that is not in my budget. My plan is for 4, 6 volt golf cart batteries. Would love to upgrade to AGM if possible but will have to see what the budget allows at that time. I don't want to save a dime and wind up spending a dollar but my checkbook does have a limit. I always try to make the best repair possible when I do. I will update when time comes.

TR4 · 11-04-2021, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave 430

DFuelman, as you I have been trying to find a decent 6 volt battery that would fit into the area where my 2 D's fit. So far no luck. hopefully someone on here will come up with a fix. I have not looked into the $1000 batteries that are being advertised everywhere. Thanks for ur input.

Five years ago I replaced my two 8D batteries with six Costco golf cart batteries. I’ve had good luck with them, but I never run them down below 12.2 volts.

Bill

Lacota · 11-05-2021, 08:22 PM

Here is my two cents worth. My 30 year old CC has fiberglass trays under the twin 8D battery banks. The trays were factory installed. When replacing both banks there were some holes I needed to repair. It was a easy fix.
There is no rust in or around the battery banks. One bank is mounted over one end of the fuel tank and if there were no trays it would be a disaster. The trays do their job!
Make some trays and you will not have to fight the rust anymore. I can give some easy instructions if you are able to work with fiberglass.
This is a requirement on USCG inspected vessels.
Best to All, Don

dfuelman · 11-06-2021, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TR4

Five years ago I replaced my two 8D batteries with six Costco golf cart batteries. I’ve had good luck with them, but I never run them down below 12.2 volts.

Bill

Thanks Bill, Your picture also helps a lot. My Battery set up is backwards from yours. In mine the 8D is the house battery and I have two Group 31's for chassis battery. Your setup allows for better use of space and would allow me to get more golf cart batteries in the box. I am going to assume that the PO set mine up like it is now, after the batteries fell out in the road. He just wanted to get going again, and was not worried about dry camping at all.