Battery combiner relay or solonoid not working properly.

[p1havasu]

Oops, not LG. Mine is also the Samsung.

Bill, thanks for all your help on this issue. Extremely helpful. Mike

[wfalch]

X2 on the fridge.

[funjnt]

Ok so back to the original issue. It still doesn't work and I am not sure why.

I tested the top small terminal, and diodes. Dc from both diodes. Both diodes tested each way and seperately, both work. 12v to top small terminal. Checks out ok.

Each battery terminal the big ones. Each one has 12v respectively to their battery. Each one tested seperately. These check out ok.

The grounding small terminal. One grounds through the oil pressure sending unit. The oil sending unit ground checks out ok. No 12 back feed either. Checks out ok.

Small grounding for boost switch, grounds with switch as it should and no back feed. Checks out ok.

I even put a direct jumper wire from the small grounding post to the house battery post and it won't engage with engine running.

Again, I tested the solonoid with power probe putting ground to ground terminal and it closes.

When pushin the boost button with engine off you can hear it closing.

I don't understand what the problem is. And this is a new solonoid as the last one went bad. Wasn't the solonoid it appears.

This is really a tough one.

[p1havasu]

I am no expert, but a couple things you stated were not absolutely clear to me. Such as while running connected small post to house bat? While running, small ground post having voltage and manually grounding to a neg bat post would close the solenoid.

Review what I conveyed in my last post and also the priors from others. I think I tested all components properly and determined it had to be the ground through the oil sender. Maybe the case with you too.

Why? Because the shop said that was the problem and fixed it. Now, finally took it back to recheck and found other bad grounding from the oil sender wiring and fixed it again. They say was intermittent prior. So, I would suspect that even if you think it checks good.

I think grounding issues is a tough one, probable, and can be anywhere. I had multiple grounding issues.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by funjnt

Ok so back to the original issue. It still doesn't work and I am not sure why.

I tested the top small terminal, and diodes. Dc from both diodes. Both diodes tested each way and seperately, both work. 12v to top small terminal. Checks out ok.

Each battery terminal the big ones. Each one has 12v respectively to their battery. Each one tested seperately. These check out ok.

The grounding small terminal. One grounds through the oil pressure sending unit. The oil sending unit ground checks out ok. No 12 back feed either. Checks out ok.

Small grounding for boost switch, grounds with switch as it should and no back feed. Checks out ok.

I even put a direct jumper wire from the small grounding post to the house battery post and it won't engage with engine running.

Again, I tested the solonoid with power probe putting ground to ground terminal and it closes.

When pushin the boost button with engine off you can hear it closing.

I don't understand what the problem is. And this is a new solonoid as the last one went bad. Wasn't the solonoid it appears.

This is really a tough one.

So, you tested both large terminals and they had 12 volts?
Then you disconnected the house battery positive terminal?
Then you retested the two large terminals and found you only had 12 volts on one?
During these tests, you did not remove the negative terminal from the house battery?
All voltage readings were from a metal unpainted surface (frame) for the negative?
You grounded the small terminal (opposite the small terminal with the diodes) while the motor was running?
And now, did you have 12 volts on the other large terminal (with the house positive disconnected)?

Bill

[funjnt]

Ok I will answer the last two posts here.

So P1havasu: So while running, enging running. With engine running all posts test correctly. I have positive from both diodes to solonoid post thus powering it from each battery bank correctly. Both big posts are correct. While running I have proper ground from the oil pressure switch. I use a power probe while doing these tests. The ground to oil pressure switch is good. The ground through the boost switch is good also. Two good grounds that function on solonoid lower ground post. Also, I grounded the solonoid ground straight to the house battery bank and it still didn't close. This is all with engine running. Remember, with engine off, the solonoid closes when applying ground to ground solonoid. So I have two seperate functioning grounds that check out. This three way grounding eliminates a ground issue although a grounding issue seems to be the issue.

Tr4: Yes both large terminals had 12v. And each lead goes to each battery bank. And the one large wire which is the second on the chassis battery side is supplying current from the alternator. 13.4 when engine running on chassis side terminal, it's charging to the solonoid.
Im a little confused on this next phase. If I disconnect the ground on the house batteries, which I did, I still get 12v on the house battery terminal. Why? The diode from the chassis side is supplying power to the small terminal. The diode will prevent the current from flowing from the small terminal to the battery bank. So I tested each diode and they are flowing and blocking the ccurrent correctly.
When I ground the the small terminal with motor running the solonoid does not close. It also does not close when I push the battery boost button. It will not close even with a direct jumper to ground, enging running.

In essence I have power to small terminal that is easy.
I have oil pressure ground verified, boost switch ground verified, and a direct ground to battery, solonoid won't operate or close with engine running.
I also checked grounds for any voltage backfeeding and detected none.

I am going to try this in a few. I will remove two small grounds and start engine. Then I will directly ground solonoid and see if it operates. That will completely issolate any grounding on the coach. Yes let's try that. This is a real head scratcher.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by TR4

So, you tested both large terminals and they had 12 volts?
Then you disconnected the house battery positive terminal?
Then you retested the two large terminals and found you only had 12 volts on one?

Bill

Originally Posted by funjnt

Ok I will answer the last two posts here.

Tr4:
Im a little confused on this next phase. If I disconnect the ground on the house batteries, which I did, I still get 12v on the house battery terminal.

Please read again.

Bill

[CntryCoachRV]

Originally Posted by TR4

Please read again.

Bill

Have you found a solution?

Ray
2000 Intrigue

[Pillbox]

Batteries in chassis HAVE priority from the alternator to charge first with engine running.
The bcc (Battery Control Center) determines this by looking at chassis AND battery voltages.
Once chassis batteries are happy, roughly 13.3 volts, the bcc says chassis batteries good, let now send the excess voltage to the house batteries.
The other think could be the trombetta/ white rabbit solenoid is bad. This has happened to me.
Just my thoughts.
Terry

[a250gpguy]

Originally Posted by p1havasu

Thanks for all the help and input here. Amazing and learned a lot!!!.



Great Coach Too

Thanks, Mike

Best group of folks on the internet bar none. Helped us out of a few jams...

Ch

[funjnt]

No everyone I haven't gone back to the last response of trying the last recomendation. We have been doing hay and haven't had time to mess with it. Also, I do know, we don't have a bcc. The only two ways our solonoid closes is with a ground to the oil pressure switch and the boost switch. Rain tomorrow but maybe I can get to it in the am. Will keep you all posted and thanks again.

[Pillbox]

Funjnt,
I did some reading on your cc. You are correct , no bcc. Your switch works off the engine oil pressure switch, If I read it right. Check around the oil pressure switch for a bad wire.
I read this info on country coach forums.
Terry
“
I don't like the way CC uses the pressure switch to tie the batteries together because if your house batteries are low your alternator can be trying to charge your chassis and house batteries at the same time. That's (6) 8D batteries in my case which will fry your alternator. I disabled the ability of my coach to do so and haven't lost a alternator since. I lost 3 previously. You might try running your generator going down the road which will give about a 10-15 amp charge to your chassis batteries as well as fully charge your house batteries if you are not in a position to work on it Right now.

I also limit the amount of charge by batteries get to about 10 amps ea. For Extended battery life.

Kevin Burns

2000 Affinity, 5865

Get Outlook for Android

Larry Reimers
[*]
Re: Alternator issue?
Reply #2 – May 29, 2019, 12:41:53 pm
Yahoo Message Number: 117838
I had the same problem. The problem was corrosion in the battery cables .

J Shealy
[*]
Re: Alternator issue?
Reply #3 – May 29, 2019, 01:05:44 pm”

[funjnt]

TR4. Ok went to coach yesterday and disconnected the house batteries from the solonoid and had 1.9 volts on the house side. I would say there was no voltage on that terminal with battery disconnected.

Along with that I again ran engine and attached seperate power and direct ground to solonoid and it won't close with enging running.

Today I will disconnect all the small wires and run coach and apply direct positive and ground and see if it operates. This doesn't make sense.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by funjnt

TR4. Ok went to coach yesterday and disconnected the house batteries from the solonoid and had 1.9 volts on the house side. I would say there was no voltage on that terminal with battery disconnected.

Did you then ground the small terminal (opposite the one with the diodes) and get 12 volts on the large terminal (house side) ?

Sounds like a bad solenoid or wrong type (latching). I don’t have the part number, maybe someone could post it.

Bill