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Old 07-02-2016, 03:08 AM   #29
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Maple Valley Wa
Posts: 189
Just an update on bubbles the destroyer

We have,
1. changed oil and filer
2. changed ATF and filer
3. changed generator oil and filter (and test run for 30 min)
4. cleaned and pressure washed.
5. removed, filled holes and mounted new led curb lights
6. watched Russ fix the horns (thanks for shimmying up on the roof) you rock
7. pulled the headlights and started to replace the plexi
8. mostly rewired the dash warning lights that had all fallen off the plexi
so I have been getting dirty but I am feeling pretty good with all the progress
Next battle is leveling valves and tires.
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:25 AM   #30
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Redondo Beach, CA.
Posts: 48
Don't forget to replace engine coolant, air system filter, hydraulic oil and differential and wheel bearing oil. With your new batteries and tires it will be like new coach!
2006 Country Coach Magna
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:36 AM   #31
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Funny Greg, you covered the rest of my to do list almost word for word.

1. figure out why the coach leans while driving, I am working on this one. all leveling valves/ airbags are set and functioning properly dump valves are functioning properly and are not leaking.
The rears were disconnected for some reason though

2. New dvd and flat screen in the bedroom
3. chase a couple lighting gremlins
4. new air horn solenoid
5. fresh water tank sensor or ground fault so the lady stops yelling at me every time I start the motor
6. webasto heater switch and any other problems with the system
7. clean roof and uv treat
and that should do it more or less
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:31 AM   #32
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA.
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sounds good. When you do roof, you should probably also reseal all of the joints, including awning attachments. Adding those 360 vents on the black and grey tank vents are good too. Also, do you have that "school bus pump" on that coach? It is an auxiliary pump that pumps engine coolant up to the dash heater. It is a real gremlin, and will bite you someday, so you should bypass it if you have it. There is a recent thread on it here, take a look, or PM me for pics and details how to do it.
2006 Country Coach Magna
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Old 07-04-2016, 02:44 PM   #33
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can you send me the info on the school bus pump ? I have a 89 CCC no heat in the dash so I assume this info might be good to have , if you like you can email it to me at byronns@Hotmail.com
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:22 PM   #34
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Location: Junction City, Oregon
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clean the contacts on the horn switch.

Originally Posted by Rsponsford View Post
Lol. I feel your frustration on the horn issue. Sounds like you may also need to replace the turn signal/horn contact in the steering wheel if you problem is intermittent. I had to replace mine as the turn signal latch was broken when signaling a left turn. The part is overpriced if you buy it from Gillig. I paid them $215 but was told by a mechanic later that they could be found online for about $50. It's easy to replace except you'll want to buy a basic steering wheel puller if you don't have one. It's a simple inexpensive tool you should be able to find at any auto parts store. Just be sure to mark the steering wheel position before you remove it so it goes back on straight (assuming yours is already lined up straight). Not sure what could cause only one to sound instead of both. There's a thin aluminum diaphragm in the back of each actual horn. You can easily unscrew the back cover and make sure there's no dirt or debris getting in the way occasionally. My right side horn was completely blocked with mud dobber nests.
Contacts get oxidated and need to be lightly sanded (110 grit should do it) from time to time. So I would try this before replacing anything.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:29 AM   #35
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Finest sandpaper you can find if really bad but never is better...

Simply drag paper through the contacts with very light finger pressure and they will buff clean.

If heavy pitting from excess current then confirm current is within capacity of the contacts.

For horn ring often oil attracts dirt but wiping action should keep it clean.

Check with meter before pulling apart then clean with steel wool and lubricate with proper lube...not sure what that is...
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:59 PM   #36
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From an old crossbar telephone tech, using 110 grit on any contact will probably ruin them. Try 3000 if you can find it, or higher. The object is to remove oxidation/carbon, not metal.

The procedure outlined is good, just wrong grit. I have some 6000 I use for finishing knives when sharpening.
Tom and Linda
Original owners
2001 CC Intrigue 40' Suite of Dreams
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:41 PM   #37
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Progress so far

Thanks for all the response on the air horn, it is still a little bit of a battle since it has air and the voltage and everything seem to be correct. I did use some very fine paper to clean the contacts on the corn button and it helped a little. It still will not sound above 75 psi now. Used to be 60 before cleaning. I am going to go after it with the voltmeter again and double check but after that I have no choice but to assume the solenoid I got was bad. Or there is a ground fault somewhere.
Will dig into that later but the news that had me dancing naked on top of the coach last night was this. After several times in different shops and hours of crawling around on my back under the coach I finally go the ride height issue to reveal itself.

See the attached pictures of the rubber top or the ride height linkage and one looks different. It appears that one of the rubber mounts has failed and at times it flops over as it is in the picture cause in the coach to droop on one side. sometimes it pops back into place. I truthfully have looked at it 25 times and last night as I was spraying airlines (again) I happened to notice it looked funny. Low and behold I played with it for a second and it popped back into position. played with it a little more and it folded over at the crack like you see here. When it is in position you can not even see the crack so
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