Charger not charging?

[TTD]

After 2 months of solving issues, I took a 2 day trip yesterday and thought to myself... now this is how it should be.

I had no red warning lights on the dash and everything seemed to be working nicely for 1.5 days.

Then, about 3 hours before we were due to leave, I checked my Inverter/Charger panel and it was on INVERT (even though we were plugged in). It usually says FLOAT, meaning the batteries are being charged.

I was able to start the Air Conditioners normally and all the green lights were on saying I had 50amps of electric.

I was hoping that the electric being supplied just went "bad", and the Inverter/Charger didn't like the quality so stopped charging the batteries?

Unfortunately, I got home last night and plugged into my 50amp circuit that has been working fine for 2 months... and the same thing.

I am planning to fire up the generator next to see if that charges the batteries (waiting until 9am) - otherwise I am out of ideas. Any thoughts?

(I'll start searching the Inverter forums too, just thought I'd throw it up here since you all have solved every other issue that popped up so far)

[YC1]

The inverter needs 110 volts of course so check your AC breaker panel in case one has tripped.

Then look for any lights on the inverter indicating a fault.

Post the model of inverter and find a diagram online so you can check the input voltage at the inverter.

Running the generator only supplies 110 volts to the inverter/charger so it can do its job.

[TTD]

No change with generator. Acts the same way as with being plugged into shore power. All green lights but sits at QUALIFYING AC and apparently never "qualifies" it. Looking into the parameters now as to what is "good" AC.

I did not change any settings, so doesn't really make any sense that would be the issue.

[YC1]

Perhaps "qualifying AC" may mean it is looking for or the lack thereof as well as poor AC.

[TTD]

yes, but I've tried 3 sources of AC... generator, my house, and the place I was camping.

everything was working perfect, then AC stopped being sent to the batteries. No settings have changed.

The quality of the AC is good, but apparently the inverter doesn't like it or really just can't see it.

[TTD]

Originally Posted by YC1

The inverter needs 110 volts of course so check your AC breaker panel in case one has tripped.

Then look for any lights on the inverter indicating a fault.

Post the model of inverter and find a diagram online so you can check the input voltage at the inverter.

Running the generator only supplies 110 volts to the inverter/charger so it can do its job.

Good call... didn't check any breakers... I'll go do that..

Nope...all breakers on. I reset the INVERTER one just for kicks...no change

It's a Xantrex Freedom SW 3012

[TeJay]

TTD,

Why not start as with all electrical issues. You have three possible sources of charging power: Engine alternator, Generator & shore power. The last two only supply direct AC power.

What are the charging voltages to the engine cranking battery & house batteries when these three sources are charging???? Before I came to any conclusions I'd sure want to know what's charging what.

We also know when the genny is running or when we are connected to shore power we have available all electrical devices AC & DC. When we are using the engine alternator we can only run limited AC devices based on the size (KW output) of the inverter.

We have a 1,000 W inverter. I can make a piece of toast a cup of coffee and run the furnace 12-V) if need be while moving just using the inverter. I can not run any AC (cooling).

The worst mistake anyone can and will make when troubleshooting (TS) electrical issues is to make assumptions. Unless you make voltage readings you don't know.

Yes one needs to check breakers but NEVER forget this. Why do we use Circuit Breakers??? To protect from overloads. Why did it trip???

[BrianGlenn]

Do you have 120V power on any of the circuits in the inverter sub panel - microwave and plug ins?

If yes then the power may being passed through the inverter. Can you toggle the control panel to show the meter readings and can you see battery voltage reading? Compare that to actual voltage reading with a Volt Ohm meter on the house battery terminals at the battery. Does your SeeLevel system have a battery voltage reading? Compare these and confirm the batteries are dischargin - ie low voltage.

There is a small internal fuse for the inverter F3 or something. I have the manual somewhere in my files, I'll go look.

Brian

EDIT: Just realized you stated a Freedom SW 3102 - that is a new generation of 3000W. Here is a link to the manual. I did install this one in a previous 5th wheel so have some experience with this model. I used a System Control Panel (SCP) with Xanbus connection - I assume you have the newer remote SCP?

My CC (2007 vintage) came with a Freedom RV 3012 (3000W, GS series) and different RC/GS remote panel. These RV GS series were the old Trace Engineering RV series of inverter/chargers.

[TTD]

Yes, I do have that manual. I am thinking the original owner updated to this, as I also have manuals for the RS3000 or something like that... I think it was the previous generation.

Anyway, the system did not throw any faults or warnings... the list is empty for both.

When I plug in or use generator, everything that should work on AC works fine... which I assume means it is just passing through the inverter as the system control panel of the inverter shows nothing... no AC voltage or amps, and the light on the inverter itself does not show AC in.

The only "error" that I see is on the Battery Link in the image below... the light for UNDERVOLTAGE is lit. It seems to stay on regardless of whether shore power is connected... not sure if that's normal?

Going to contact Xantrex now that I have all the parameters I can get. I don't think it has anything to do with the quality of power coming in since 3 sources all do the same thing.

[TTD]

I admit to being useless when it comes to electrical issues so not sure I understand all of your post.

I do know that 2 different shore powers, the generator, and the engine batteries while driving home - all fail to charge the House Batteries.

Everything else seems to work exactly as it did before. The inverter works perfectly and runs everything it should... and the battery goes down appropriately. This is my big fear as I am now showing 12.4 V and I don't have a way to charge them.

Originally Posted by TeJay

TTD,

Why not start as with all electrical issues. You have three possible sources of charging power: Engine alternator, Generator & shore power. The last two only supply direct AC power.

What are the charging voltages to the engine cranking battery & house batteries when these three sources are charging???? Before I came to any conclusions I'd sure want to know what's charging what.

We also know when the genny is running or when we are connected to shore power we have available all electrical devices AC & DC. When we are using the engine alternator we can only run limited AC devices based on the size (KW output) of the inverter.

We have a 1,000 W inverter. I can make a piece of toast a cup of coffee and run the furnace 12-V) if need be while moving just using the inverter. I can not run any AC (cooling).

The worst mistake anyone can and will make when troubleshooting (TS) electrical issues is to make assumptions. Unless you make voltage readings you don't know.

Yes one needs to check breakers but NEVER forget this. Why do we use Circuit Breakers??? To protect from overloads. Why did it trip???

[BrianGlenn]

Originally Posted by TTD

The only "error" that I see is on the Battery Link in the image below... the light for UNDERVOLTAGE is lit. It seems to stay on regardless of whether shore power is connected... not sure if that's normal?

Thats different than my combiner - I have a Xantrex Echo Charger - others have installed the Magnum battery minder.

Possibly that was installed by previous owner as well. It does look factory though with the fused sensor wire to ground.

Here is what I found on the web for that device. Blue Sea CL Series Battery Link

EDIT: PS what did you find out about the mystery unlabelled switch near the boost button in your overhead entry door cabinet? Has it been changed positions from before? Possibly it has something to do with the combiner/charger.

It is apparent to me the previous owner added a new inverter charger, and may have altered the OEM circuitry. You will need a good digital volt ohm meter and start tracing circuits and voltages.

Electrical circuit trouble shooting is straight forward and systematic. Start at the source and move outward. Somewhere the charge current is stopping (at a solenoid/fuse) from alternator (12V) or the charger (Freedom SW 3012). Possibly a loose connection or ground.

[TTD]

Looking over the Battery link stuff now. Hopefully that is the issue as it seems like a relatively easy swap. Need to leave on another trip Saturday!

I never found out any more about the mystery switch. I will try moving that, but really don't think it is anything as it's been in the OFF position for all the time I've owned the coach (about 2 months in my possession). I flipped it on a few times and noticed nothing obvious, so just left it off and everything was working beautifully until yesterday.

Tony

Originally Posted by BrianGlenn

Thats different than my combiner - I have a Xantrex Echo Charger - others have installed the Magnum battery minder.

Possibly that was installed by previous owner as well. It does look factory though with the fused sensor wire to ground.

Here is what I found on the web for that device. Blue Sea CL Series Battery Link

EDIT: PS what did you find out about the mystery unlabelled switch near the boost button in your overhead entry door cabinet? Has it been changed positions from before? Possibly it has something to do with the combiner/charger.

It is apparent to me the previous owner added a new inverter charger, and may have altered the OEM circuitry. You will need a good digital volt ohm meter and start tracing circuits and voltages.

[TTD]

Am I correct that the battery link's purpose is to allow the "boost" feature to work? Basically connecting the batteries when needed?

Or is it necessary for battery charging to occur? (which is obviously my issue)

from the description: Automatically combines battery banks during the charging cycle and isolates under discharge

Sounds like this means when I plug in shore power, it allows both my house and chassis batteries to charge... but when the house batteries go down, it prevents the chassis batteries from draining.

[TTD]

Turns out there's a reset button on the inverter itself. The way mine is mounted, the buttons are hidden behind the large cables.

Saw the buttons on a video... And sure enough one was popped out. All good so far... Hoping it was just bad electric spike at the camping area.

Thanks for the feedback