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Old 03-27-2017, 09:47 AM   #15
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Here is a service manual for the unit. Perhaps it will help.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/acservice.pdf

My question would be what is turning off the compressor, an overload which is on the compressor or is the thermostat commanding it off. Without looking at I could not tell how to do it but I would force the compressor on to see if the compressor overload is popping off.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:11 AM   #16
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Are both a/c units doing this or just one? It sounds like the unit may be cycling on the thermostat ? Hard to think both the compressor and the fan have a problem. That multi zone stat needs to be set for each zone I don't like mine too much it is easy to think you set it and find the wrong zone is set. Did you try setting the stat at say 60 degrees and the fan to on rather then auto? The fan shouldn't have a problem unless the sleeve bearings are worn or the capicator is bad. If you are running the unit on heat pump on a warm day it will run at higher amps but probably not 25 amps. Heat pumps don't like running when the air temp is much higher then low 70'sor so. The evaporate coil and filter are clean right?Don' t run it for any length of time with the shroud off unless you cover the top of the condenser so the osa fan will pull air thru the coil. Just a few thoughts on the simple side you might check.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:17 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Roy1 View Post
Are both a/c units doing this or just one? It sounds like the unit may be cycling on the thermostat ? Hard to think both the compressor and the fan have a problem. That multi zone stat needs to be set for each zone I don't like mine too much it is easy to think you set it and find the wrong zone is set. Did you try setting the stat at say 60 degrees and the fan to on rather then auto? The fan shouldn't have a problem unless the sleeve bearings are worn or the capicator is bad. If you are running the unit on heat pump on a warm day it will run at higher amps but probably not 25 amps. Heat pumps don't like running when the air temp is much higher then low 70'sor so. The evaporate coil and filter are clean right?Don' t run it for any length of time with the shroud off unless you cover the top of the condenser so the osa fan will pull air thru the coil. Just a few thoughts on the simple side you might check.
It's only the rear unit doing this. The front unit is newer but the same model. I believe the thermostat is set correctly. I have reset the whole thing and reprogrammed it. makes no difference. I am stumped I spoke with Dometic they were of no help. You say the capacitor controls the fan? Perhaps I should install this hard start kit that I bought. Remember, the one clue I have is that on Startup the rear unit causes and over current fault on my Onan. Of course it could be something on a board I presume but I'll never find that.
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by spyderRV View Post
Here is a service manual for the unit. Perhaps it will help.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/acservice.pdf

My question would be what is turning off the compressor, an overload which is on the compressor or is the thermostat commanding it off. Without looking at I could not tell how to do it but I would force the compressor on to see if the compressor overload is popping off.
Thanks how do I force the compressor?
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:38 AM   #19
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Thanks how do I force the compressor?
I could not tell how without looking at it but basically it entails overriding the electronics, hot-wire so to speak. Perhaps you could see if the thermal overload which is shown on page 29 is switching off. If it is, there would be 120 volts ac across it. If this is an unfamiliar task to you I would recommend having someone who has experience doing this type of troubleshooting. AC's can be replaced, you can't!
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:33 PM   #20
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Its more serious than I thought. BOTH AC units are now causing the generator to instantly shut down with a code 11 "overcurrent" fault the moment the compressor comes on. Running on fan, no problem. Turn of compressor, instant shut down. Breaker off to one AC unit, the other still causes the fault 11 instant shutdown and vice versa.

I ran other loads besides the AC's (heaters, micowave, toaster oven bringing the generator up to 92% per Silverleaf drawing over 50 amps. Flawless. No error codes. Then shore power, I took my clamp ammeter separately to each air conditioner breaker in the main breaker box. Its pretty cool out this evening, both units drew about 11 amps on cool and were cooling very nicely. On heat pump, the rear unit got a little over 21 amps and the front was about 18 after a while. Both blasting out heat. I spoke with Silverleaf. Brainiac there said it sounds like your Onan inverter control board in the Onan 8k Quiet diesel. (That's over $2k just for the part). I spoke with Onan tech support, he had me call the big Cummins dealer (Rocky Mountain--a Coachcare facility) here in AZ. Spoke with what seemed to be a very knowledgeable Onan tech there. He said of $270 they can hook up their test equipment, but if my generator can run a 91% load with no errors is it EXTREMELY unlikely that the problem is with the generator. He said to look for a short or other problem with the air conditioners. I am stumped. It is amazing that both AC's are not not happy with the genset (or vice versa actually) yet run well on shore power. This is getting over my technical capability and wallet!
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:25 AM   #21
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Boy you are not having fun. Not real familiar with these newer generators my old GMC had a 6.5 kW generator that was good for around 50 amps my current generator is an 8 kW which yours probably identical If you put your clamp on ammeter on the out put wires of the generator and monitor the output amps& volts as you load it up it should not shut down if you don't exceed the rated output? It wouldn't hurt to check the hertz also if your meter is capable. Actually the a/c units should trip their individual breakers rather then shut down the generator if they are the major loads. The heat pump mode will draw more amps on a mild day as it demands more from the compressor don't expect it to heat too long in mild weather. Kind of miss the 70's technology it was mostly just logical stuff not high tech BS. I can't imagine where a short would be if you were able to run the whole a/c on shore power but not on the generator. The frequency is critical when it comes to amp draw for a compressor so I would want to be sure your generator is running at 60 cycles or for younger guys 60 hertz.
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Old 04-01-2017, 01:11 AM   #22
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Roy, it's running at 60 hertz. Our 8k Onan are inverter type generators that use an inverter to produce AC. It has it a board that monitors current and voltage and can shut it down if it doesn't like what it sees. A malfunctioning air conditioner can draw way more current for a fraction of a second on startup than it's supposed to is my understanding. This I have been told could cause the over current fault. Whether it's a capacitor a board or the compressor in the AC's I don't know. It is also possible, God help me, that the board in the generator has gone partially bad. I have to try to determine which it is. Days before this problem seems to have developed, my Shore power pedestal had a major short. My Magna announced that the shore polarity was reversed. I unplugged it didn't seem to cause any problem and I ran the air conditioners off the generator. I also have a Progressive EMS just Downstream of the transfer switch that should have protected things. Of course the generator would not have been engaged at the transfer switch at the time anyway and it was certainly not running. It was some days after this that I started the generator up again that I discovered this problem. It is possible that the air conditioner was were running when the pedestal burned up. This also could be coincidental. All kinds of other things were on and everything else is fine.
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Old 04-02-2017, 11:27 AM   #23
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You are correct the newer type generators are a lot more sensitive then the pre inverter type generators. The older type a/c units were harder to get started then the later ones by older I mean 70's piston type .Sometime in the 80's the compressors were scroll type which is probably what you have. I don't think the starting amps are that bad. You can use your clamp on ammeter to check the starting amps. Just connect to shore power and observe the starting amps when the compressor starts I'm sure it is well within the range of an 8 kW generator. Wish I could be of more help but things are getting complicated.
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Old 04-02-2017, 04:30 PM   #24
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Well guys I'm fearing it's my generator board I cannot handle the startup current from the AC's and is shutting down: I installed a brand new hard start capacitor in my front unit. Generator still shut down instantly on compressor startup. My AC feeder panel shows a 28 fraction of a second Spike on Startup with the zero other loads on that leg. I would think a properly operating 8000 watt generator could handle that. The only possibly strange thing was that when I went to discharge the run and the start capacitors with my screwdriver before touching them to remove wires I got nothing. I would have thought there would have been quite a charge build up in these. I did this twice: once before removing the existing hard start capacitor and ptcr and once after trying it out to remove the new ones that I put in their temporarily.
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