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Old 12-02-2016, 11:31 PM   #1
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Dreaded Lift Pump Leak

It finally happened. After 145,000 miles of no leak my lift pump decided to give it up.

Somewhere on the forum, someone posted pictures about an external mounted lift pump being used instead of the engine mounted one.

Any ideas as to who it was and where is the post?
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Old 12-03-2016, 12:31 AM   #2
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Smithy Try the Cummings forum there is a lot there
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Old 12-03-2016, 12:43 AM   #3
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Won't have much luck at the Cummings forum.

Try the Cummins forum instead.

Question: If the lift pump last that long, why not replace it with the same type?
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Old 12-03-2016, 11:36 AM   #4
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Don - Suggest a call to Brazel's, Alan is the one that put together a great package combo for our coach. Have 14K + miles on it now, and very pleased.
FAAS pump, without the filters added, as the CC filters in our coach were easy to access, and good quality.

Here is one of the links on the Cummins forum, related to Lift Pumps:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/cumm...nt-280226.html


And another link too. Here TR4 does a great job of taking things to the next level on explaining the process:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/repe...-289659-2.html


Even though you will read it in these two links, I'll repeat here my two primary reasons for going the Lift Pump bypass route with an external Fuel Pump:

1) I read, and talked to owners, about multiple Lift Pump failures over the years. (Though I believe Cummins current replacement, is providing less problems(?)).

2) CAPS protection. The Lift Pumps are not cheap, and a PITA to replace in some coaches. But the failure of a CAPS takes the expense to a much higher level. CAPS are both lubricated, and cooled, by the flow of diesel fuels. So I wanted to keep the 100% insurance of Positive Fuel pressure to feed the CAPS.

Some I've talked to say the are seeing increase performance. I've not noted any lost of power, but I can't positively say that I've noted any improvement. Though another rationale for going to the FAAS, was I was also having our ECM reprogrammed/mapped to put out more power (This ended up not happening.), so wanted to be sure the CAPS was never having to 'suck' too hard!

Best of luck to you Don. But, it sure sounds like your Lift Pump owes you nothing!
Smitty
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Old 12-03-2016, 11:52 AM   #5
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Agree, access to pump can be an issue--but the usual culprit here is/are the three bolts that hold the pump manifold body to the 12v motor assembly work loose over time. You have to guess-timate the torque spec but I was able to tighten mine about two years ago [20k miles] and haven't had a leak since.....
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:10 PM   #6
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Thanks all. Sad part is that I am about 600 miles south of Brazels. I'm going to lift up the little bitty hole in the floor to see if I can reach the pump and give the bolts a little torque. Gotta get it fixed as it has made a real mess on the back of the coach and toad.
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:54 PM   #7
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Don,

I just noticed mine start leaking too. Of course, I just got done with this ride height valve headache, but no, I'm not done yet

Let me know what you come up with, I also am dreading this project.

If you can stop the leak and limp it home I'd be glad to help you install the new system.

Smitty, I talked with Alan yesterday. He is a great guy. Do you have some pics from your install? I am considering the same one that you went with and I would be doing the work myself.
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Old 12-04-2016, 12:30 PM   #8
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don, not sure if your engine has the same pump as my isc 350 has... if yes, do not change the pump as it's NOT a plug n play! i replaced the gasket myself a year ago it's been good ever since.

the following highlights should help get you there:

1) get the gasket - it's very hard to get the gasket nowadays but a few places might have it. try capitalvolvo.com first. cost about $7.

2) observe the location of the pump - flip up the bed/mattress to expose the engine in bedroom. when your nose points to the tail of the coach, the pump is at your left hand side of the engine, near the end of the engine closer to you. notice a 90 deg bracket, side mounted to the engine body. the pump is retained by 3 bolts attached to the horizontal leg of the bracket.

3) swap the gaskets - best practice: DO NOT remove 3 retaining bolts altogether! at any given time, there must be one or more bolts still holding the pump in place!

those are long bolts.
a) loose them all first, then remove two bolts out of way.
b) slide/rotate the old gasket to the side.
c) put the 2nd bolt back in where the gasket is out
d) take out the 1st bolt.
e) take out the old gasket.
f) install is reverse of the removing.

the total job is about 30 minutes or less. have fun!
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
don, not sure if your engine has the same pump as my isc 350 has... if yes, do not change the pump as it's NOT a plug n play! i replaced the gasket myself a year ago it's been good ever since.

the following highlights should help get you there:

1) get the gasket - it's very hard to get the gasket nowadays but a few places might have it. try capitalvolvo.com first. cost about $7.

2) observe the location of the pump - flip up the bed/mattress to expose the engine in bedroom. when your nose points to the tail of the coach, the pump is at your left hand side of the engine, near the end of the engine closer to you. notice a 90 deg bracket, side mounted to the engine body. the pump is retained by 3 bolts attached to the horizontal leg of the bracket.

3) swap the gaskets - best practice: DO NOT remove 3 retaining bolts altogether! at any given time, there must be one or more bolts still holding the pump in place!

those are long bolts.
a) loose them all first, then remove two bolts out of way.
b) slide/rotate the old gasket to the side.
c) put the 2nd bolt back in where the gasket is out
d) take out the 1st bolt.
e) take out the old gasket.
f) install is reverse of the removing.

the total job is about 30 minutes or less. have fun!
Only problem is that I have the rear slide and you don't get to see the motor by lifting up the bed!. I have a little rectangle hole on the step that is about 12"x36" to look at the motor from. It appears that my pump is located further back on the motor and lower down, about midway on the block.
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Old 12-04-2016, 04:14 PM   #10
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I have the rear slide and you don't get to see the motor by lifting up the bed!. I have a little rectangle hole on the step that is about 12"x36" to look at the motor

Don,

Have a 2001, and found out you can remove the closet doors and track and then remove the "upper" deck for full access. My pump was done from the rear/bottom by Cummins Rocky Mountain.

Good luck.
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Old 12-04-2016, 09:39 PM   #11
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"Have a 2001, and found out you can remove the closet doors and track and then remove the "upper" deck for full access. My pump was done from the rear/bottom by Cummins Rocky Mountain."

That could be a possibility if major service was ever needed. We had a chest of drawers built into the closet because the wife wanted more drawers. That sits next to the right side of the closet, next to the transfer switch
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:31 AM   #12
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Sorry to hear of your troubles, Don .... hope to hear you're back on the road again soon!
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:38 AM   #13
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Don,

After Smitty did all the research, and reading multiple posts on other forums to back it up, I went with the Faas pump. In the links he's posted are pictures of his pump and mine. Nice part about the install is you'll never have to crawl under your RV to replace the pump. And if your pump is still working, you can reconnect it in about a half hour and us it for backup.

The stock lift pump was never a good design. It made the gear pump in the CAPS do all the work of pulling fuel from the tank, through two filters (about 30 ft. of fuel line in my case). The CAPS injection pump needs constant fuel to cool and lubricate. Dirty fuel filters, causing restriction, and or leaking lift pumps, causing air to be pulled into the CAPS will eventually damage the accumulator.

I went one step further and installed a fuel pressure gauge between the CAPS and secondary filter. Now instead just changing fuel filters because I think they're bad, I monitor them with the gauge. If fuel pressure drops, I can find the problem and correct it before the motor quits or damage to the CAPS.

If found Smitty to give excellent advice on upgrades to my RV and trust his advice.

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Old 12-05-2016, 02:18 PM   #14
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Bill,
I am thinking about the Faas pump and I would like to have Brazel's install it. Problem is that I'm about 600 miles south of them right now. That project will have to wait until spring.
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