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Old 12-20-2016, 12:33 PM   #1
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Generator coolant leak

We are supposed to leave for Florida Jan 4. Took coach today to get new shower enclosure installed. Started gen to run heat pumps and it quits after about 5 min. Restart, shuts down again. Go outside to check and there is coolant dripping from radiator area.

Just had the 1,500 hour service done last year with new hoses, etc so not sure what is leaking. Now at the shop who did that work waiting for verdict.

Having this generator on a slide is OK for general maintenance but anything internal requires removing it from the coach.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:25 PM   #2
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Did you use it much after the service last year?
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:05 PM   #3
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Hopefully just a loose hose clamp! Fingers crossed for you,
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okcnewbie View Post
Did you use it much after the service last year?
Yes. We took two three month trips since the service and have put about 100 hours on it. Based on time and use, this does seem to be a new issue.


The leak is near/above the radiator and you just cannot access any of that with the generator in the coach. So, I left the coach there today and they will remove the generator, diagnose and repair by end of week next week.


Its probably going to be something simple but the labor cost to get to the issue will be significant.


It is a shame that Onan did not put access doors on both sides of the generator.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:47 PM   #5
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Update: Shop called today and said they were done with coach. I went to get it and spoke with the mechanic. He worked on the coach last night and this AM so our trip would not be delayed. That was certainly appreciated.

What he found was a clamp on the lower radiator hose had loosened and could not be tightened. He replaced the clamp, filled with coolant, and ran it under load for 2 hours. No leaks.

Clamp and coolant was $11.66. Labor and shop charges $585.00.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:21 PM   #6
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Adds up quickly at $110+ per hour. Thankfully, it wasn't a much worse problem.

On the positive side, glad you're up and running and able to get on with your trip.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:26 AM   #7
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If you're still RVing you're just between breakdowns.
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:13 PM   #8
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.

Clamp and coolant was $11.66. Labor and shop charges $585.00.

I thought "they" did the hoses last year...... very interesting.
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:49 PM   #9
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I thought "they" did the hoses last year...... very interesting.
Yes, they did a major service which included new hoses, new t-stat, new temp sensor, valve adjustment, all filters/fluids, new belt for water pump. However, I used the coach for a year and put 100+ hours on the generator without issues. Yes, the clamp that failed was obviously put on by them. But, I did not feel I had justification to ask them to fix it for free.

I do believe the fact that they were the last shop to work on the generator was the reason they worked me in quickly when I heard the scheduler tell others that the earliest appointments they had were in mid to late January.
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:25 PM   #10
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Had the same problem on my coach. I was however, able to get to the clamp. Glad your trip was not delayed, and hope the rest of your winter goes well.
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:32 PM   #11
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While not easy on the labor cost, good to know it was really a minor mechanical problem...

And while I feel for you somewhat on the labor costs. I suspect for us it would have bene another 2-3 shop hours on that bill. Our or era Allure, has no slide out generator. To do any real work on it, you need to unbolt/hook the generator and drop it our of the coach to get access. (We dropped ours out twice to replace two temp sensors that had gone bad. The last time we had it out, we decided to have the generator radiator flushed too. Due to poor service, and not exercising the generator by the previous owner - the radiator would not flush properly. (Crystalized coolant.). So we recored the radiator, replaced the pump/thermostat/hoses/fan belt all at the same time. Changed over to Final Charge coolant, to match what we run in the ISL now. And I added a second temperature gauge, A/B switched in with the stock one. (Figured if I'd had to replace two, and the last time we were in Bishop, CA with 111 temps when the gauge failed - that I wanted extra insurance. So "A" is the OEM location temp sensor. And "B" is metal C Clamped to the exterior of the mental flange where the return hose comes in. If we have a failed OEM location temp sensor. I will check fluids. Inspect the fan belt is still in place. If all is OK, I'll switch over to "B" to keep temp sensor, to allow the generator keep running without code 333 popping up!))

But of course Gary - this has nothing to do with your current problem! Just saying wish we had a slide out generator too (Knew it was a downside to our choice of this specific coach going in.). As well as again wanted to share our approach to dealing with the Cummins/Onan temp sensor's failures. (Though according to the parts gent when I bought the second temp sensor to instal (The third on this relatively low hour generator.), it was a new 'improved' design, and a different part number then the one I had before. So maybe they took care of the problem.) All of my info is related to the QD8000.)

It was good that the shop got you into the place and going so soon. I wonder if they felt somer responsibility, as it was their sourced clamp, and labor, that installed it the first time(?). But agree, after that much time, hard to come back onto the shop.

Travel safe, and have fun,
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:00 AM   #12
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Smitty, from my experience most shops will cover a repair for 90 days. If there is a failure of a part and the failed part has a warranty, most of those warranties don't cover the labor. I do think the quick TAT on the fix was related to their feeling some responsibility.

I dropped the Onan 7.5 QD out of my previous coach for a full service (1,500 hours). I used a motorcycle jack. Based on estimates I had gotten from both Cummins and Winnebago, doing it myself saved me $700-$800. If the top of the 10K in the Allure could be easily removed, most everything could be done from the top. However, when the slide is fully extended you cannot reach the bolts on the rear most portion of the top cover. It is a shame that CC did not configure the set up to allow the slide to extend another 4". That would allow access.

The mechanic was a skinny fellow and told me he raised the front of the coach and squeezed in under and behind the back of the genset to remove those bolts. He was then able to remove the top. He also had to remove a bracket that held the front clip to the slide so he could get to the bottom passenger side of the generator. He propped up that side of the clip with boards. His resourcefulness and determination probably saved some labor cost since he did not have to completely remove the beast.
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smlranger View Post
If the top of the 10K in the Allure could be easily removed, most everything could be done from the top. However, when the slide is fully extended you cannot reach the bolts on the rear most portion of the top cover. It is a shame that CC did not configure the set up to allow the slide to extend another 4". That would allow access.

The mechanic was a skinny fellow and told me he raised the front of the coach and squeezed in under and behind the back of the genset to remove those bolts. He was then able to remove the top. He also had to remove a bracket that held the front clip to the slide so he could get to the bottom passenger side of the generator. He propped up that side of the clip with boards. His resourcefulness and determination probably saved some labor cost since he did not have to completely remove the beast.
Did the same for my 07 Allure 10KQD to remove the top; That was the only way I could get to the spark arrestor plug to clean. I too wished for another 4inches of slide out travel...... I left the middle, back 10mm bolt out for the cover, for the next time I have to remove it... PITA, for sure.

Have a great trip!
Brian
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