Help no power to climb a hill

[aircommuter]

Sounds like you have about all the suggestions you can check without a correct scanner, and they don’t always tell you everything. If it turns out to be fuel contamination you might consider installing a system like Airdog of FASS as their pumps and filters eliminate fuel problems, also stay away from bio fuel because there are no real standards for them. I have been in the automotive repair business for over fifty years and Diesels since the early 70s, I didn’t see your post beforehand. If you have questions I will help, PM me as I don’t have time to read forums very often. I work in my home shop now semi retired.I do Diesel performance upgrades and restoration.

[Dave9]

Start at basics, how about rodents in the air filter/ check wiring for bare spots where they like to chew around the engine , Or the large pipe from the turbo boost i have seen them blow off at one end if the clamp was not secure?

[Ssgritton]

Thanks for all the suggestions that have not been preformed yet. I have replaced the two fuel filters, drained diesel into a jar for a week to see if I had water separation (none to date) I replaced the air filter, checked the Transmission fluid (full) drove the coach and moved the exhaust brake in and out (it works and stops like it should) looked at the inner cooler and turbo for leaks (no whistle or black smoke) no white smoke.

When the shop mech. looked at the injectors when I removed the floor in the bedroom he showed me leaking fuel lines going to three of the injectors and fuel pump line, we will replace all six plus the fuel line he said he was 85% sure this is it. He did not hook it up to the computer (which I do regret now) but it has not had a check engine light on or anything. After he moved the lines around to see things, on the way home it had lost more power so I want to believe this is it. If he is wrong then we will check other things I would hope on his dime not mine.

[bigjon42]

This may be a long shot, but I had the exact same symptoms on my 5.9 ISB.
I checked everything already mentioned, replaced lift pump, ect. Turns out it was a bad fuel shutoff solenoid. Was only opening part way, would start and run fine, NO power. Replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid, (easy job), no problems since, over 6,000 miles. I now carry a spare solenoid. Good luck. Jon

[oceansailor]

Originally Posted by greg4net

The second time was the lift pump had gone bad and Cummins told me it was not unusual to have this happen without throwing a code until after the damage was already done! The lift pump caused the injector pump to run dry and self destructed it as an after effect

Yep - I had that "enjoyable" experience with my ISC engine. The Bosch lift pump went, and took the injector pump with it... that seriously hurt in the wallet.

The Cummins mechanic recommended that I stick a 5PSI pressure sensor into the lift pump - it's even got a spare port that would make doing so very easy - and hook it to an LED somewhere near the dash. If the lift pump pressure ever drops below that point while the engine is running, pulling over immediately would be an excellent idea... I haven't done this yet, but when I do, I'm going to add an alarm to it as well.

If I was a lawyer, though, I would sue the living hell out of Cummins for doing this - and make it a class action suit (lots of people, and not only RVers, have gone through this.) I was a diesel mechanic in the Army, and NO other diesel I've ever heard of will do something this moronic... they simply shut down when the lift pump dies. In fact, there's some guy in Oregon (as I recall) who built a complete replacement fuel harness - standard lift pump, standard injector pump, and all the tubing - that he sells for $8k+, and I understand he's doing a booming business among the companies that ended up with ISCs in their fleet trucks. Frankly, the one-time cost of such a replacement vs. the cost of doing it again and again, and the risk of having your truck break down in a way that can't be repaired at the roadside seems like a worthwhile idea. Replacing a lift pump should take 15 minutes including getting the air out of the lines, and cost $50 in parts - not $400+ as for that freakin' Bosh. As to an injector pump that must be lubricated by diesel or it burns out within seconds...

[oceansailor]

Originally Posted by Ilvmygt

As an alternate to Silverleaf you can get a ScanGauge D that will plug in the diagnoise port. They run $160 on Amazon. It will display 4 parameters including turbo boost. The display is smaller then the Silverleaf and made for an easier installation.

Do yourself a favor and don't waste the money. Just get the Silverleaf, and be done with it. I've had both, and it's the difference between a pair of used, squeaky, worn-out roller skates and a brand-new Ferrari with a full fuel tank and a gorgeous babe in the passenger seat.

(The interface on the ScanGauge D is very poor - lots of button pushing and displays that make no sense until you figure out how they were thinking when they designed it... in particular, the tank refill screen is so hilariously stupid that it should be used in showing UI designers how to NEVER, EVER do things.)

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by Ssgritton

I was told there is only two fuel filter, I have added cleaner to the fuel. I will have the lines replaced to the injectors Wednesday and see if that fixes the problem. I will let everybody know thanks for the input. They shop is a truck shop that only works on big rig trucks and motor homes and are cummins repair facility.

So were several other people who later found the one mounted on the block....

[oceansailor]

Originally Posted by NeilV

I strongly advocate adding some DieselClean or Dexron I or Dexron II ATF (do not use higher due to the friction modifiers) to the fuel you fill the new filters with. On a very small filter I will just add the Dexron. This will help clean and lube the injector pump and injectors.

Us old codgers have been doing this for decades using the Dexron and find it eliminates many problems down the road.

Some of us old codgers realize that technology changes with time, and various things we used to do no longer apply - or are actively dangerous/truly bad ideas. This is one of them. If I was working on an old Continental LDT-465 (the engine that we had in our "deuce and a half"s in the Army), I'd do it every single time - but those things would run on anything from Jack Daniels to coal if it was crushed fine enough, and run "just a little rough" after one cylinder exploded (I kid you not; I saw it.) But - PLEASE do not do this on any diesel made in the last quarter century... they're fragile little flowers these days.

Talk to any professional mechanic who works on modern diesels - one at a pro shop, like a Cummins dealer - and they'll tell you about replacing injectors where the tips blew off due to "old-time mechanics" doing this. Happens all the time.

[AdmiralJann]

Check your turbo boost connections. We had a hose clamp break trying to climb I-26 in NC and couldn’t even make 1 mph! Got a mobile truck repair service to fix it. About a hundred bucks for the service call. We now carry spares. When you loose your turbo, your horsepower drops to under 100!

[Ssgritton]

We did check the clamps and hoses, did not find anything.

[TarasParents]

First inclination is clogged fuel filters had it happen sitting out six months of winter several years ago. Found algae slime in the sight bowl after experiencing loss of power.

Now been using JF Biobor found it at a Marine Dealer as it's used in Marine diesels. No problems since so it gets my approval!


Edit: also now carry both spare fuel filters secured in vacuum seal.

[Dave the mnw]

If you are still having the problem and have only found 1 filter, My 2005 Freightliner chassis - Cummins engine RV has a fuel strainer in the fuel line on a bracket bolted to the frame behind the rear axle, but in front of the suspension air bag. It is not a spin on, it is an in line disposable strainer with a 1/2 inch compression tubing fitting on each end. The strainer is painted black. It catches debris and clogs before the fuel filter. (it looks like an automotive fuel filter except if you look inside when its clean you can see light from the other side) It has a screen on the inlet side and a perforated plate with about 1/16th inch holes. (many holes) It is delicate so replacement may be perferred.

I never had to change my fuel filter to get power back. I just blew the strainer out with compressed air and went another 2-300 miles, until I got the fuel tank cleaned and disinfected. I went from Northern Illinois to below Vicksburg MS in Decmber of 2011 and then back North in May and it finally was over after an RV Rally that June when I finally got the tank cleaned.

If your rig has a Freight liner chassis, call 800-385-4357 24hrs/7days a week. Have your VIN number handy. They can tell you things about your Chassis that other people don't know. They built it.
Call them first to see if your rig has the strainer. They can give you the part number for the replacement. I don't remember the number for mine. You can get it at NAPA or Freight liner. I still had a spare strainer when I traded my rig in a couple years ago. The real fix if you have algae is to kill the algae then clean the fuel in the tank or completely drain the tank and fill with fresh fuel. (That's a lot of fuel.) Otherwise you will be fighting the debris and potentially messing up your fuel system with the much more expensive filters.

Use Biobor JF or something like it regularly in your fuel unless you never stop more than a few nights.
Loosen the fuel tank drain plug with a glass jar under the plug to check for water once in awhile. That might be in the chassis manual. Be careful. Get help if you don't feel comfortable doing it.

[Ssgritton]

Ok, the shop replaced the leaking fuel lines to the injector and fuel pump. Did that help the low power no. So we then hooked it up to the computer no error codes in the engine or transmission. All cylinders and every thing checked out ok and within in spec. Next we did a smoke test and "BAM" smoke started coming out between the inner-cooller and exhaust. There is a gasket between where the two meet and smoke was coming out of that. The truck shop said I would have to find the gasket or how to fix this one on my own the other side of the inner cooler was not leaking.

The only good thing that came out of this is what he charged me, it was $40.00 less from the first quote to replace all the fuel lines to the injectors and we spent 4 hours on top of that with the smoke test trouble shooting.

So here is the question of the day, where the exhaust meets the inner cooler is there a replacement gasket, there is like 30 small allen screws around holding this onto the joint where I think there is a gasket?

[Hangfive]

Originally Posted by Old Dinghy

I’ve had the same issue twice, and both times it was algae in the fuel filters. The rear-most passenger side compartment has both mounted vertically where you can get a strap wrench on them and remove them. Expect a bit of fuel spillage, so put a rag or towel down. Lube the seal ring on both new ones with Vaseline or equivalent to aid tightening. You will have to crank a bit on starting, to prime the filters, and make sure to carry a spare set. Biobor JF or another diesel algaecide is a must for any large fuel tank, and is cheap insurance with today’s biodiesel. Safe travels.

You need a good fuel additive to get rid of the algae an bacteria build up in the tank, from the 6 mo boondock. Algae will effect the new fuel you just put in with the old polluted fuel in your tank, might have to change filters several times after using treatment, and always keep treatment in tank while stored. Cold weather akso causes gelling of diesel, the treatment also prevents this.