How many older CC's are out there?

[stumo]

Originally Posted by tonibalonee6

We just bought a '94 CC Affinity on a Gillig chassis. Only had it for about 6 months, but we are enjoying it! Among the used RV's we were looking at in our price range, this coach was by far the best quality we have ever seen.

my wife and i have the same year affinity, same chasis with a cat pusher. love it. we have been full timing for three years now. bought ours in quartzite, arizona and like you are amazed at the quality of our unit. we are snowbirds and live just above seattle in canada

[stumo]

i have a 1994 forty foot affinity with 86,000 miles on a cat pusher. i am a snowbird and live just above seattle, in canada and travel to various points in the u.s. and mexico in the winters. love the country coach, are full timers and love the life.

[massyman]

hello massyman here. stumo-remember to mossie, the journey is as interesting as the destination. and don't get excited where ever you turn the key off your home. good advice i think. raised my family to that advice since 1976 and they love rving with their kids. happy RVing. we gone. massyman

[silvermyr]

aquired a 1987 38' SE 102K 3208 TC. Runs great but had battery issues had toput all new batteries in. This boil out post scared me as I see evidence of that on the house side. I do not want to ruin new batteries. I am a good fixer but the electrical is confusing and extensive in the CC. Any Advice or help would be great. I still can't figure the house disconnect button. doesn't say on or off?? The battery checking switch was working then i frigged it up messing with the rear start box. Figured a fuse but can't find one. Anyone have this problem or know how to fix. Also looking for a good manual copy mine is very basic with little or no service help. Good engine manual but need chassis wiring diagram and advice and training on systems of older CC. Look forward to any help I can get.

[TQ60]

Your unit is like ourselves, so on a phone...here we go...

TURN OFF THE CONVERTER!!!!

If stored leave off, turn on when using.

Add battery minders for storage, you need 3

Should be top left breaker in panel in bedroom.

The converter is ferroresonant, constant voltage, but just a bit high.

It is 70 amp so battery domestic not have a chance.

Battery switch by driver controls coach battery, up is on.

Switch for starting battery on rear run box with engine, domestic not disconnect battery, just disconnects low current wire to key

Good luck on wiring diagram

Fuel guage powered by generator battery in front, don't ask...

This one requires towards people, one under coach to lift from bottom, second on top to place it.

You can search the component manufacturers for manuals.

3T even fan out of business but switches can be found.

The small rocker switches are available at a well stocked electronics supply for about 1.50

ATS for inverter and generator behind back tv or closet on curb side

Hot shot id replacement for freon

The air dryer is reasonable as a rebuilt one from truck air brake supply, take yours as there area a few different ones used

Lesson 1 end...

Good luck

[silvermyr]

converter is off.
I will look into battery minders, I have charger unplugged for now.
I am still looking for a fix on the over head battery charge indicator light I ran about 20 minutes with the switch off on the run box after getting batteries checked out. I was hoping to find a fuse blown but may not be that simple. did look behind TV found a new box full of black little breakers maybe? Are they fuses? If I can find the wires that lead to the battery charge indicator it may be an easy fix. I keep hoping it will reset itself and start to work.
hope we can continue these lessons Thank You

[TQ60]

What light are you talking about?

The monitor panel voltmeter?

You push up the switch to get reading.

Above passenger is wood panel with 2 screws, remove panel and there may be a nest of circuit boards.

Disconnect ALL three batteries first as they all may be there.

Clean the connectors ONE AT A TIME!

Wires go overhead back to the storage behind seat, then down wall at front of window, through the column on wall, along floor to dash, then across to rest via the NASTY AMP connection...

The red connectors were good in the day, but they oxidize and need carefull cleaning.

A gentle twisting may cause a better connection to change things.

The coach has more wires than you can imagine!!!

We still want to make a shelf to support us to allow an overhead resting position so we can easily work on the dash wiring from above...someday...

Box behind tv is 12 volt distribution system

Also be warned about plumbing...

Coach gas PB plastic, clorine attacks it.

Had to redo ours, posted information here on how, not that expensive but a ton of work and excuse to buy some tools and a bore scope camera...

[benford]

Just bought this last August, Have put over 3000 mi so far and love it.....

[pool13]

We just got it, we are going to astoria, or. From west of eugene
about 9/17. We are going to run it over to cummings for them to change all the fluids, then put 4 new tires on it, 2 are almost new.
It has been in shed for 10 yrs. With little use.
Pool13

[silvermyr]

Yes on the over head montior panel. It was working find and I went in to get batteries checked out. With the engine running and checking batteries i tur the switch that cut the egnition off in rear run box. Then driving i see the dash amp gauge needle baried. I flipped the coach disconnect to off and the amp gauge needle went back to normal. Then when I got home I checked batteries to see if they had any charge and the panel would work for either battery bank. I did remove the panel u are talking about but couldn't see a problem. Will continue to investigate.
Plumbing has been find but i will take note of the cholrine problem. Sure hope I can figure out the battery charge moniter.
Thanks again for help.

Marc

[silvermyr]

I meant the panel wouldn't work when i got home on early post. So now I can't check where batteries are as far as there charge. I checked out the battery minders. Do you simply hook one to each battery and then leave the big converter off? Is this only when you are in a extended shore power situration? Other wise use the main converter for a quuick charge for maybe 24 hrs?
Marc

[massyman]

silvermyr carefull with maine converter, if it is over gharging it can boil batties in a lot less than 24hrs. remeber, boiled batt, could be junk batt.. happy RVing. we gone.

[TQ60]

Different model battery minders and other similar items.

Each battery gets one.

We installed the big 8 amp ones on the rear coach and starting batteries and the smaller 1 amp one on the generator battery.

Would not do the same again, the 8 amp model has an automatic battery maintenance program which is a great thing, it also is lage enough for multiple batteries whish is also great, BUT 2 8D batteries of current design is just too big for it.

It times out before it is complete with its maintenance cycle and it errors out.

So we need to reset it every few days to get it to complete a cycle.

It works well, we just need to do this before we plan on using it, looking at adding another float device to keep them topped up.

You turn off the converter when parked and stored, turn on when using unit on shorle line or generator.

The converter will equalize the batteries, which is fine once in awhile, but if left on it will boil out the water so watch the water in the coach batteries (curb side) carefully.

We usually turn the converter on while getting the coach ready for the trip, and leave it on until we get home, then turn off as we go back on shore power.

The converter draws over 500 watts simply plugged in due to the nature of how it works, so in addition to boiling the batteries it will suck your wallet too.

If you just add a float device like the ones they sell at Harbor freight they are ok, but if they are left connected to the battery and not powered up they will drain the battery, dont ask...

If you have one that has a diode or build a relay to disconnect when not powered up (another project not yet done) the connection can be easy.

Behind the access door on the curb side of the coach for the air filter for the engine is the isolator, open the door and look inside and up, the isolator is located on the bottom of the floor above you.

Center pin is alternator, outside goes to each battery.

Connect your chargers here, saves running wires to battery.

If you use battery minders they need to be connected directly to the battery, we added a plug inside the storage under the bed and routed conduit to each battery, clean and the battery minders are inside.

Now on your switches....

It looks like your were switching the battery switches with the engine running....

...

...

DO NOT DO THAT EVER!!!

The alternator is regulated based on the system voltage.

if the engine is running and the battery is disconnected the regulator in the alternator may allow the voltage to ramp up very high.

The starting battery is always connected, the chassis disconnect at the rear run box only disconnects the power to the key switch and a few other things with the heavy wire directly conected to the starter, so it is not likely the alternator would ramp up unless someone miswired something, so AVOID TAKING THE RISK

The coach battery system is a little different, depending on how things are wired there could be issues with the alternator running and the switching of the power, this could confuse some things and smoke others.

So bottom line, DO NOT turn off battery switches unless the engine is NOT running.

You may have blown a fuse or wire, a lot of time with a volt meter may be in order.

Recheck all connections and grounds, those 'amp" connectors are nasty, could have opened up an intermittent connection too.

If the volt meter in the monitor panel is not working it could be bad bulb or connection.

You can disconnect the batteries then carefully clean all of the connections on the circuit cards in front of the passenger seat then test, next look at the monitor panel, have not looked behind ours so no clue what is back there.

You may be able to pull the vent cover from the overhead blower and look from behind just to see.

[silvermyr]

Now I am sick about this. I did turn the switch in rear start box and ran 20 miles. Amp gauge on dash was maxed out,way over voltage. I flipped house disconnect switch and seemed to fix the dash gauge. Then when I tried to restart i realized the switch was on at the back and was cutting off all power to dash. I flipped switch at the back, then coach would start but but the upper panel to check charge level wouldn't light up. May need CC tech help. I don't need any stupid things like this. Anyone have ideas on a fix let me know. I will do some checking with meter to see if I have power. I still do not see any fuses which i had hoped to find was problem.

Marc