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JRadtheNoMad · 12-31-2021, 06:53 PM

Happy New Year! It's a Friday night and no support help from ITR or Rixens so I'm turning to the group for some help... My C045 Hurricane Heater had been working fine a year ago and started to periodically act-up. I contacted ITR and ordered a 5 yr kit to get it back up and running. Received it the other day and after watching the instructional videos that ITR put out, I dove right in. I really had no issues with swapping all of the items out with the new stuff, and wow was the nozzle pretty well gummed up, but the new one looks great. The new blade connectors collars were a little larger than the originals, so I removed the collars and they fit just fine. I put some electrical tape around them and "pinched" them together to assure good contact. So I started the normal process of starting up the heater and it immediately red lights and alarms without the possibility to try the normal second time. The control board indicates "blown fuse". I checked the fuses and the red 10amp blew, replaced it and tried again and it did the same thing, tried a third time and same results... I only have 2 blade fuses left. I checked a schematic and it appears to be the "main" fuse and I'm at a loss for why. Rechecked all my connections and they seem fine. Anyone have some insight? As I mentioned, the normal process of start-up was working prior to my replacement swap outs but now it won't even do that and the same fuse keeps blowing...HELP!

astrnmrtom · 12-31-2021, 07:23 PM

I'd walk though the steps in doing your service. Take it apart and verify each thing. Make sure you haven't pinched a wire or reversed any connections. Don't assume you did anything right. I've done that before and missed a mistake because I was SURE I connected something right, but didn't verify that I did.

If memory serves me correctly the start-up sequence should be:

1. ignitor energized
2. Combustion air - purge cycle.
3. fuel pump.
delay
4. Fuel nozzle air pump starts/ fuel solenoid opens. (mine doesn't have a solenoid)
5. Flame verify.
(This sequence ignores the circulating pump, but you can do that too.)

Unplug them all and start attaching them one by one until the fuse blows. Make sure the power is off when you plug in each device.

One last thing not related to the blowing fuse. Did you also clean out the combustion chamber including the air vent holes surrounding the burner assembly? Carbon likes to build up in the holes, plugging them and making for an irregular flame.

dons2346 · 12-31-2021, 09:13 PM

Had the same problem. What Tom said is the way to find the issue. If you have the manual, follow the schematic when you disconnect components. IIRC there are two components on one circuit, don't remember which ones but it is shown on the schematic

astrnmrtom · 01-01-2022, 11:33 AM

This may help - schematic here: https://itrheat.com/wp-content/uploa...v-Mar-2011.pdf

One other thing. While rare, there are times when an unrelated failure occurs at the same time as you are servicing something. If I'm working on something and it worked before I serviced it, and didn't after, the first place I go is to verify I did everything correctly. I had it happen one time while working on a vehicle, and I had to go back and walk through the steps checking everything I did. I was confounded because the failure still occurred. Then on something like the third run through, I caught something subtle that I'd missed the first two times. Sometime you discover its something simple you didn't even realize you'd done, like push some wires out of the way to make the repair.

I have also gotten trapped via target fixation. I was so focused on the fact I was sure I'd caused the failure because I'd worked on it, I didn't go use good troubleshooting techniques by treating the failure as a separate event. It's like changing the oil in your car and coming back out to find a flat tire. You wouldn't assume the oil change had anything to do with the flat tire, but you do when a failure is on something you just worked on.

If you follow the steps I suggested, and discover a new part - say the ignitor is bad, swap it with the old one and see if it solves the problem. If the old parts were still working, I suggest you clean up the old nozzle and keep the old parts as spares. It just might save you if you have a failure on the road. Don't clean the nozzle by poking any hard object in the opening. You can clean it with fresh diesel and an old toothbrush or use brake or carburetor cleaner.

Good luck. Hope you find it's a simple fix and please let us know what you find..

phays · 01-01-2022, 12:52 PM

OP

I'm not sure the brochure that Tom M pointed you to is correct for your Hurricane. It is not the brochure for the one in my 2000 Magna. My heater is a CO45DRG. I have the brochure for mine and if you need it PM me with your email and I'll forward a copy to you.

Ozzsp250 · 01-01-2022, 03:35 PM

Here's the version 12 motherboard service guide in case you need it.

I'm going through my heater same model as yours and run into an issue where the "telephone" jack connector on the motherboard was corroded and I did not realize that number 1 pin while intact externally when viewing, but is totally missing inside the jack and thus was not communicating correctly with the remote board, no switch or lights were functioning on the remote board. The moment the service switch was turned on the Switch 1 Open LED [same as REMOTE OPEN] would turn on. I could jump around it to start the heater logic running but could not turn the error light off. ITR are trying to sell me a $600 motherboard and my better half is balking at me spending that much --- that is until she needs heat sometime it the future. My motherboard also had a blown diode which I've replaced, awaiting the new jack to mount on the motherboard and hopefully it will be ok.

I have 4 fuses, Top is 5 amp [control] next 2 are 10 amp and the bottom one is a 20 amp - all as found all serviceable.

birdhunter · 01-01-2022, 10:36 PM

I am not at my Magna and I don't have my Hurricane manual, but each fuse is for a specific component. I believe the manual states that. You could have a bad fuel pump, compressor etc. Although you should probably be getting a fault code as I recall. If you can't figure it out call ITR on Monday they will be able to tell you what component that fuses is for and probably more.

birdhunter · 01-01-2022, 11:04 PM

I found the manual in my Dropbox online. You have fuses for the burner, the pump and the fan. You're blowing the fourth one which is "main". The manual does not describe what that fuse controls, so I really can't help you. Could be it is the fuse for the board itself and you have a bad board. Could be you miswired something given this began right after you replaced components. ITR should be able to tell you what this main fuse controls. I have never blown that particular fuse.

JRadtheNoMad · 01-02-2022, 08:32 AM

Thanks guys for the manual and the insight.. A little cold here this morning and I'm going to go through my install again today by re-installing and vacuuming out the burn chamber. A guy at the resort (a former trucker) suggested applying some dielectric silicone compound on the blade fuse connections, which I don't think could harm anything? The fuse bank is four in total from farthest to closest to the bay door, the 10amp fuse is the second slot, and will be the first question I pose to the guys at ITR on Monday. Two thoughts, first when I replaced the air filter, I had to man handle it to get it out so I'll be rechecking the fuel pump wiring, in case I bent or nicked something. Secondly, the fuel solenoid and it's wiring, need to see if any of it may have been bent or nicked when I removed the burner assembly. I wish I were competent with a meter, just something I've not had a need for, until lately....

HeyHarr · 01-02-2022, 03:09 PM

I'm having the same issue. I haven't installed my new parts (need to change some connectors) but my old igniter seems to have an exposed wire right where the igniter clip touches the igniter.

birdhunter · 01-02-2022, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRadtheNoMad

Thanks guys for the manual and the insight.. A little cold here this morning and I'm going to go through my install again today by re-installing and vacuuming out the burn chamber. A guy at the resort (a former trucker) suggested applying some dielectric silicone compound on the blade fuse connections, which I don't think could harm anything? The fuse bank is four in total from farthest to closest to the bay door, the 10amp fuse is the second slot, and will be the first question I pose to the guys at ITR on Monday. Two thoughts, first when I replaced the air filter, I had to man handle it to get it out so I'll be rechecking the fuel pump wiring, in case I bent or nicked something. Secondly, the fuel solenoid and it's wiring, need to see if any of it may have been bent or nicked when I removed the burner assembly. I wish I were competent with a meter, just something I've not had a need for, until lately....

There's all kinds of things that can go wrong that will give you error codes, but you're actually blowing a fuse, so that means there's some kind of a short or something is drawing above-rated current. I don't know what that main fuse is for exactly if that's the one that's blowing. ITR will guide you they're very good. One thing they will tell you is you don't need an air cleaner.

birdhunter · 01-05-2022, 08:55 PM

What happened? Did you talk with ITR?

JRadtheNoMad · 01-06-2022, 05:07 PM

Getting in contact with ITR is nearly impossible! The one time that they answered the phone, I explained what was happening and the response was "that main fuse on a C045 is supposed to be a 15 amp fuse!" So I thought, great I'll swap it out and get back if there is an issue. Well I tried and that fuse blew too. Then I noticed printed right on the side of the inclosure that a 10 amp fuse is the max for a C045. Tried several times to call back and no answer... I called Rixen's and without any real diagnosis other than the main fuse blowing, "It's gotta be the compressor, it's expensive but we have some in stock". So, you can imagine that I'm frustrated with the unit, and the two options that are supposed to be helping me. I have a hydronic heat tech that is traveling through my area and hoping his group can help me correctly diagnose the problem.... Don't feel like throwing hundreds of dollars at the unit only to find out that it's something else.

dons2346 · 01-06-2022, 08:57 PM

Before blowing bucks on a compressor, I would remove the compressor from the circuit and see if the fuse blows. Follow the schematic and remove the connection. You can do that with all of the other components also.