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09-23-2017, 11:52 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kokomo Indiana
Posts: 62
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HWH 500 series (no jacks) HELP
when I shut the motor off the pressure is around 99 to 110 psi. If I come back next day pressure is 0 psi. I don't know if the leak is in the hwh system or a tank leak. Has anyone else had this problem?? Thanks
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1997 Magna, gillig chassis , 38Ft.
Detroit 40 W Turbo 330 HP
Allison 6 Spd
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09-25-2017, 02:29 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kokomo Indiana
Posts: 62
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This is the first time I didn't receive and answer on this site. the only hwh certified rep is about 120 miles from me so I called about getting an appointment to see what was wrong. he said the way I explained it to him that it is a suspension problem or possibly a break hose leak. when I find out and get it fixed I will post so someone else will have a heads up. This is a great site and most of the time you can get a answer.
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1997 Magna, gillig chassis , 38Ft.
Detroit 40 W Turbo 330 HP
Allison 6 Spd
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09-25-2017, 03:11 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,293
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Send CC/Winnie a e-mail
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Wally & Elta Mae
2007 Allure 470 Sunset Bay #31535
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09-25-2017, 05:25 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,172
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Jerry,
Had a similar problem but not quite as dramatic as yours. Part of my problem was leaks at the fittings going into the ping tanks. These are two tanks between the front wheels that are tied into the air bags. Don't know if your coach has them or not but they help soften the ride.
HWH fixed those leaks in my system but it was a tough task as there isn't much space to work in. I still have a leak or leaks but not as bad. My original leak was bad enough that the auxiliary air pump could not relevel the coach after sitting for a few days.
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Pete - Full Timing
2000 Country Coach Magna 40' Indulgence, CAT C10, #5892
2019 Ford Ranger XLT
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09-25-2017, 06:48 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona
Posts: 378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry226
This is the first time I didn't receive and answer on this site. the only hwh certified rep is about 120 miles from me so I called about getting an appointment to see what was wrong. he said the way I explained it to him that it is a suspension problem or possibly a break hose leak. when I find out and get it fixed I will post so someone else will have a heads up. This is a great site and most of the time you can get a answer.
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Well I see you posted close to midnight if my clock is correct. I believe i have the manual for this system but if not you can get it from HWH. Just go to their site and download it. Sounds to me you have a pretty good leak in the air system.
You have one gauge with two indicators, one for brakes and one for system. Are they both at zero? If so you have a leak in the main supply. If not then whichever one is at zero then that is the system you need to look at.
Do a little more research and get back with some more info and maybe we can help.
Good luck...
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Bill & CJ
'99 Allure 36' #30307
Enjoying it while we can. 200,000+ and counting!
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09-25-2017, 11:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 723
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If I understand correctly both your gauges are going to zero, not just one of them. I have the same problem but it usually takes a couple days and then sometimes it doesn't leak down at all. I replaced all four original airbags as a preventative measure. During the replacement of the airbags the shop found and fixed a couple air leaks but both systems often still leak down after a day or two. Keep us posted if you figure it out.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Russ
1990 Country Coach Concept 36' Antares
2006 Jeep Wrangler X, Blue Ox Towbar
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09-26-2017, 07:04 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kokomo Indiana
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burfman
Well I see you posted close to midnight if my clock is correct. I believe i have the manual for this system but if not you can get it from HWH. Just go to their site and download it. Sounds to me you have a pretty good leak in the air system.
You have one gauge with two indicators, one for brakes and one for system. Are they both at zero? If so you have a leak in the main supply. If not then whichever one is at zero then that is the system you need to look at.
Do a little more research and get back with some more info and maybe we can help.
Good luck...
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I have 2 needles. 1 green and 1 yellow. The leak is in the yellow. I think the yellow is the brakes. Is that right??
__________________
1997 Magna, gillig chassis , 38Ft.
Detroit 40 W Turbo 330 HP
Allison 6 Spd
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09-26-2017, 10:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry226
I have 2 needles. 1 green and 1 yellow. The leak is in the yellow. I think the yellow is the brakes. Is that right??
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I'm not certain. However, do you have manual drain valves? I have four of them (maybe five!?) located under the right side of the front bumper. If so, these manual valves are normally left in the open position to allow the air purge solenoid (which is normally closed) to dump air when activated. It's not uncommon for debris to get caught in the solenoid not allowing it to close all the way after releasing the purge switch. If this happens air will l ask out of that part of the air system. Check these valves to see if leaking air can be detected. Even if no leak is detected you can manually close these valves see if this stops the leak down. If you want to isolate which manual valve is associated with the air pressure gauge that is showing a leak then you can manually close one valve at a time and hit the purge switch. When you determine which manual valve prevents the air pressure from dropping on the suspect side when the purge is activated then you have found the valve related to the system that is leaking. You can manually close this valve and leave it closed. If the system stops leaking down over time then your solenoid valve (not the manual valve) is leaking. The solenoid valve is attached directly to the manual valve by the way. The manual valves are small 90° ball valves. Since they are rarely operated, if ever, they can become very stiff and require an adjustable wrench to rotate the valve. It's not likely (but possible) that the brass manual valve will be so stiff that it breaks the valve lever, but if it does it can easily be replaced. You can pick one up at any hardware store with a plumbing department. The more likely scenario is that the electric solenoid valve has become corroded over time and isn't closing off completely as was the case with my coach.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Russ
1990 Country Coach Concept 36' Antares
2006 Jeep Wrangler X, Blue Ox Towbar
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09-26-2017, 08:10 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St. George, UT
Posts: 1,950
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Green is typically the gauge for the main tank, which is for the rear brakes. Yellow would be for the secondary, or the front brakes.
Front and rear brakes would not come from the same tank for safety reasons.
Your coach should have a wet, main, secondary, and auxiliary tanks. These tanks can come in just two tanks that are internally divided, into 2/3 main, 1/3 secondary.
The lines coming out of these tanks should all be different colors.
Usually the ride height valves/ air bags come off the wet tank.
Air leaks can be somewhat of a pain to track down. Knowing it's just your secondary tank will help narrow it down. I use diluted simple green and start spraying down all fittings, check valves. I would only do this if you have ramps that you can drive up on.
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Owners of a 2018 Lance 1995
St.George, UT
Former 02 Intrigue by Country Coach
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