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Old 06-03-2016, 07:33 PM   #15
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Brett, I've used Danny at Perrine electric for years. Good guy and reasonable. I'd recommend a 50 if you have it available, why not? The only reason I put in 30 is I only had a 30A extension cord.

Give me a call and I'll give you his number.

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Old 06-03-2016, 07:42 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
So is it ok to have the full 50 amps hooked up while its just being stored for battery maintenance, or should I switch over to a 110 during these times?
If your not having anyone living in it you can just plug it into a regular 110v 20 amp plug. I keep my coach covered on the side of the house plugged into 110v.
When it's not covered the solar panels take care of the batteries. I could easily install a 50 amp outlet but 110 works for me. I also made a 30 amp 220 dryer to 30 amp 110 adaptor when I plug in at my sons house (got to have that a/c in Boise).

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Old 06-03-2016, 08:09 PM   #17
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IMO, unless you are on a real tight budget for this, I would install the 50 amp. You will never regret having full power in case you need it.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:31 PM   #18
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I have a 50a installed at the house for the trailer, I leave the ac's set at 85 when in storage to circulate the air and keep the humidity at bay, plus maintains the batteries. Worth it to do 50a, and not more than a 10 or 15 percent up charge over 30a.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
A picture is worth a thousand words.

The 30A receptacle for RVs is that same as the old 220V welder receptacles. If the Electrician is not up to speed on RVs, he will wire it for 220V and you will destroy your coach when you plug it in. I know that for a fact because it happened to my neighbor.


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Old 06-04-2016, 10:53 AM   #20
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This is stupid simple.

If you are paying a licensed contractor to do the work the parts cost is nothing. ..sort of.

Meaning installing a simple 15 amp outlet or a 50 amp one both require same amount of labor.

A 30 amp rv outlet costs MORE than a 50 amp one due to quantity.

A double pole breaker a bit more and if panel space is tight have an existing standard size dual breaker removed and replace with a compact one.

Most home ac are 30 amp and 30/50 are common.

Wire cost a bit more so what.

Also pull some number 12 and add a service outlet si you can just plug in a standard cord so you can just charge batteries or run power tools.
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:23 AM   #21
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Thanks everyone for the responses. Ive decided to go with a 50 amp. I have to use the same electrician that is doing all the wiring at the storage condos, he will be adding them both at the condo and here at my house.

I guess at the storage condo he gets all kinds of requests for all different setups, so he had ask me what I needed, and I just wanted to confirm with all of you what I was reading in the book. After he is done I will test both sides of the outlet just to make sure I am getting 120 volts.

The mh will be stored at the condo, but I also wanted one here at the house to be able to run the A/C while loading. It seems on really hot days that my fridge runs about three degrees cooler when the air is on inside the coach.

Thanks Again
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
So is it ok to have the full 50 amps hooked up while its just being stored for battery maintenance, or should I switch over to a 110 during these times?
The 50 amp is two legs of 120, it's how it's used inside the RV that makes a difference. Our rig is all 120 Volt EXCEPT for the dryer which is 240 volt.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:42 PM   #23
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I just hired a local licensed electrical company to install a 50 amp outlet...best $300.00. Electricity is not my area of expertise!
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power, install

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