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Old 10-23-2018, 07:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssgritton View Post
So Brian, are you telling me that I would only have to remove the oil radiator and CAC will come out to be replaced or repaired with out dropping the radiator? how many hours for just that part? I was being told you also have to drop the radiator?? Now I'm confused


All I know is how my 2007 Allure rad stack is configured. I’ll have the 400ISL before the switch to 425ISL with EGR and DPF which changed the design of the rad stack. I do not know if your 2005 400ISL rad stack is similar to my 2007.

If you looked at my previous post and link to my repair - one of those pictures shows my rad stack - rad is inboard, and the CAC and oil cooler are stacked outboard with the AC condenser hung off the top of the CAC.

My bottom plate is cantilevered off the bottom of the rad. Removing that plate and the bolts holding the oil cooler to CAC allowed the oil cooler to be removed. The 8 cap screw bolts hold the CAC to the upper support, which is also cantilevered off the top of the rad. These bolts were sheared off causing my CAC/oil cooler to “drop”. Possibly the repair shop believes the entire rad stack needs to be removed to get to these bolts. I was able to reinstall my CAC with new 8 cap screw bolts to the hangers off the top of the rad without removing my radiator.

I cannot tell you the repair shop is incorrect. If you confirm your rad stack assembly is identical to mine then you may want to bring attention to the fact that CAC and oil cooler can be removed without the radiator. My job as an example. They may still want to do the full radiator r/r if they believe this is the best way for them to tackle the repair.

Hope this helps.
Brian
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:15 PM   #16
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Thanks, I have been told that they just lower the RAD to get the CAC out. Tonight we found a broken bolt on the CAC and a lot of loose bolts around the end cap so we are going to replace them tighten all down and see if I get power back. I will in the long run replace the system for sanity. lol

Thanks for your great info and answering me back.
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:31 PM   #17
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Bring this to a close

Ok, Premier RV said that they did not think it was the CAC, they were correct (thank you!!! as they could have done the replacement and had the same problem) They referred me to Cummings in Coburg, my tech was Jeff, this guy was great, he went for a ride and said right off the bat no this is not the CAC but something else, after about 40 minutes he had it nailed down to the Boost sensor on the manifold. They ordered the part and it came in today, at first he thought it did not fix it which freaked me out but I said let me drive the coach and bam back to normal, 75 on I5 to test it and then pulled the toad home with ease.

I highly recommend Premier in Junction City and Cummings in Coburg, less than $500. is better than $4k

Jeff, if you see this keep your tires on the ground and thanks!!!
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Old 11-09-2018, 04:19 AM   #18
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Glad that it turned out to be a simple fix!

Happy camping!

L.
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