Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Country Coach Owners Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-21-2021, 11:10 AM   #1
Community Moderator
 
CountryFit's Avatar


 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,017
Blog Entries: 4
Making a thread on a steel pipe?

Hi folks, need to pull your wisdoms to decide which way to go -

The elbow on the below photo is the down pipe of the thermostat. I need to make a thread so to install a brass thermo switch 1/2" NPT . There are 3 options for me

(1) Drill a hole and cut the thread on it. I have a tap and I can do it with ease. Concern is brass and steel reaction the steel could corrode over time.
(2) Drill a hole and weld a stainless steel nut (with the correct thread) over it. Need to have a shop weld it for me.
(3) Install a brass fitting adapter onto the adjacent rubber sleeve/connector. It's easy but will it seal and hold well?

Your thoughts? Appreciate inputs.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20210721_093800.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	187.9 KB
ID:	336755  
__________________
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
CountryFit is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-21-2021, 11:20 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Ljwt330's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
Personally, I would go with option #2. Weld a steel nut onto a hole creating a bung, then screw in the thermo switch. Two reasons.


First, the pipe looks to be fairly thin walled so tapping a thread may have a marginal result in strength and the seal on a curved surface may not be good enough to prevent leaks. A welded nut can be filed flat for a solid surface.



Second, galvanic corrosion between carbon steel and brass results in the steel corroding. If the only point of connection is the thin wall of the pipe, that is where the corrosion will happen. It will weaken the connection and possibly make r/r of the thermo switch difficult. A thick, steel bung (nut) will be stronger, thicker, and removal of the switch would not compromise the pipe wall.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
Ljwt330 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 11:25 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
69Stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,881
I would go with #2 also.
__________________
2010 Phaeton 40QTH on a PG Chassis.
2017 Lincoln MKX.
Air Force One brake system and Blue OX Towbar.
69Stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 11:29 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,648
My vote is probably option 2. You refer to it as a nut that you would weld, however, it will be a specially fabricated piece of SS threaded with the NPT. I guess you could buy a fitting with the NPT on it to attach, not sure if that is easier to find versus just make your own.
- I would probably buy a whole new downspout to modify, that way you can take your time with the person welding, etc. If it doesn't work, you can easily return to the original setup.

Does your switch need to reach into the stream of water flow or will it be fine slightly out of the stream?

Option 3 might be fine, but would need many more details.

EDIT: Looks like all are voting Option 2.
__________________
2020 Chevy Silverado 1500
Forest River Wildwood XLite 263BHXL
carybosse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 11:32 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
Get a surface mounted thermostat.
__________________
TandW
TandW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:04 PM   #6
Registered User
 
CRV2's Avatar
 
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 879
Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW View Post
Get a surface mounted thermostat.
X2 ~CA
CRV2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:10 PM   #7
Community Moderator
 
CountryFit's Avatar


 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,017
Blog Entries: 4
Thank you all! Seems like the consensus (almost) is option 2. You guys are awesome!

carybosse: It can be a little further down the stream, but there isn't a better place to do it. There is a sensor further down for ECM I couldn't mess with it. I'll try to find a ready made nut, if not stainless steel I'll go with a grade 5 steel nut it should be fine.

TandW and craigav: I had looked at the surface mount thermo switch but it's less than ideal for my purpose - 1) The pipe surface is a curve there isn't a good contact; (2) Engine block has flat areas but the temperature there wouldn't be as accurate as in the coolant. (3) I have bought an immerse switch already...

OK guys thanks again. Safe travels!
__________________
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
CountryFit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:14 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
gnvrvin's Avatar


 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Burien, Wa
Posts: 1,228
You may have a bung on the lower radiator connection if you have the steel and copper radiator. They are not present on the aluminum radiators
I also believe source engineering sells the weld in bung and possible the whoe 90 with bung already installed
Plenty of threads her on WAX valve install if thats what you are doing. do a search

Let us know how it goes for ya,
greg
__________________
Greg and Vicki R.
2004 Country Coach Intrigue "Sweet Serenade"
40' Tag Axle Quad slide CCI #11811
16 Jeep Wrangler, Airforce One
gnvrvin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:19 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigav View Post
X2 ~CA
???
__________________
TandW
TandW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:21 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 588
Pull the elbow off and install one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Bulkhead-Conn...dp/B08BHYM5PS/ Couple whacks with a 5lb hammer will help create a flat spot if necessary.
__________________
2000 Monaco Diplomat 38D
Fffrank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:40 PM   #11
Registered User
 
CRV2's Avatar
 
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 879
Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW View Post
???

X2 means times two, in that I would suggest the same thing you did.


BTW, CountryFit, I am not sure what the temperature switch is to be used for, however if you are using it to turn off and on an auxillary fan(s) or something similar, it is most common to have the sensor on the radiator coolant outlet and not the radiator inlet. I am not sure which is the outlet though on yours. ~CA
CRV2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 12:56 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,648
Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
Thank you all! Seems like the consensus (almost) is option 2. You guys are awesome!

carybosse: It can be a little further down the stream, but there isn't a better place to do it. There is a sensor further down for ECM I couldn't mess with it. I'll try to find a ready made nut, if not stainless steel I'll go with a grade 5 steel nut it should be fine.

TandW and craigav: I had looked at the surface mount thermo switch but it's less than ideal for my purpose - 1) The pipe surface is a curve there isn't a good contact; (2) Engine block has flat areas but the temperature there wouldn't be as accurate as in the coolant. (3) I have bought an immerse switch already...

OK guys thanks again. Safe travels!
What I was referencing with the stream was if you were to drill & tap the pipe, that would put the sensor in the flow itself, potentially the most accurate temperature. If you go with option 2, the sensor would be outside of the flow, in what is effectively a dead end pipe. Pretty short, probably not an issue, but none of us really know what you are doing.

Can you post a picture/model number of the switch you purchased, might give someone else an idea. And when you finish the project, as payment for all the awesome advice you received (cough! cough!) we all want to see what you did and what you are using it for. Before and after pics are a must.
__________________
2020 Chevy Silverado 1500
Forest River Wildwood XLite 263BHXL
carybosse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 01:29 PM   #13
Community Moderator
 
CountryFit's Avatar


 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,017
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnvrvin View Post
You may have a bung on the lower radiator connection if you have the steel and copper radiator. They are not present on the aluminum radiators
I also believe source engineering sells the weld in bung and possible the whoe 90 with bung already installed
Plenty of threads her on WAX valve install if thats what you are doing. do a search

Let us know how it goes for ya,
greg
Good to know the weld in bung from Source Eng. My lower radiator connection is a rubber tube clamped on to a short outlet, the other end of the rubber tube is clamped onto a long pipe routing back to engine. I couldn't install the thermo switch there as the coolant is already cooled. I am doing the mod like how ronandsue did.
__________________
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
CountryFit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2021, 01:49 PM   #14
Community Moderator
 
CountryFit's Avatar


 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,017
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by carybosse View Post
What I was referencing with the stream was if you were to drill & tap the pipe, that would put the sensor in the flow itself, potentially the most accurate temperature. If you go with option 2, the sensor would be outside of the flow, in what is effectively a dead end pipe. Pretty short, probably not an issue, but none of us really know what you are doing.

Can you post a picture/model number of the switch you purchased, might give someone else an idea. And when you finish the project, as payment for all the awesome advice you received (cough! cough!) we all want to see what you did and what you are using it for. Before and after pics are a must.
With option 2, the switch is still immersed into the coolant as I would drill a slightly larger hole then weld a nut on to it.

The thermo switch is this https://www.fleetoilandtrucksupply.c...032P_p_82.html . But don't think your pickup truck would have a Sauer Danfoss control, that this intends to address.

Members especially those veteran CC owners on this forum have known the issue of hydraulic fan control failure. Ours is shot; I feel so embarrassed when drive on a unpaved road that horrendous dust clouds are left behind, like a tornado is following me . Ron has done the pioneer job now I am gratefully doing the same.
__________________
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
CountryFit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coachmen sewer pipe swing out pipe... Sfields RV Systems & Appliances 5 05-22-2021 10:27 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.