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Old 07-21-2021, 11:10 AM   #1
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Making a thread on a steel pipe?

Hi folks, need to pull your wisdoms to decide which way to go -

The elbow on the below photo is the down pipe of the thermostat. I need to make a thread so to install a brass thermo switch 1/2" NPT . There are 3 options for me

(1) Drill a hole and cut the thread on it. I have a tap and I can do it with ease. Concern is brass and steel reaction the steel could corrode over time.
(2) Drill a hole and weld a stainless steel nut (with the correct thread) over it. Need to have a shop weld it for me.
(3) Install a brass fitting adapter onto the adjacent rubber sleeve/connector. It's easy but will it seal and hold well?

Your thoughts? Appreciate inputs.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:20 AM   #2
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Personally, I would go with option #2. Weld a steel nut onto a hole creating a bung, then screw in the thermo switch. Two reasons.


First, the pipe looks to be fairly thin walled so tapping a thread may have a marginal result in strength and the seal on a curved surface may not be good enough to prevent leaks. A welded nut can be filed flat for a solid surface.



Second, galvanic corrosion between carbon steel and brass results in the steel corroding. If the only point of connection is the thin wall of the pipe, that is where the corrosion will happen. It will weaken the connection and possibly make r/r of the thermo switch difficult. A thick, steel bung (nut) will be stronger, thicker, and removal of the switch would not compromise the pipe wall.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:25 AM   #3
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I would go with #2 also.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:29 AM   #4
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My vote is probably option 2. You refer to it as a nut that you would weld, however, it will be a specially fabricated piece of SS threaded with the NPT. I guess you could buy a fitting with the NPT on it to attach, not sure if that is easier to find versus just make your own.
- I would probably buy a whole new downspout to modify, that way you can take your time with the person welding, etc. If it doesn't work, you can easily return to the original setup.

Does your switch need to reach into the stream of water flow or will it be fine slightly out of the stream?

Option 3 might be fine, but would need many more details.

EDIT: Looks like all are voting Option 2.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:32 AM   #5
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Get a surface mounted thermostat.
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW View Post
Get a surface mounted thermostat.
X2 ~CA
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:10 PM   #7
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Thank you all! Seems like the consensus (almost) is option 2. You guys are awesome!

carybosse: It can be a little further down the stream, but there isn't a better place to do it. There is a sensor further down for ECM I couldn't mess with it. I'll try to find a ready made nut, if not stainless steel I'll go with a grade 5 steel nut it should be fine.

TandW and craigav: I had looked at the surface mount thermo switch but it's less than ideal for my purpose - 1) The pipe surface is a curve there isn't a good contact; (2) Engine block has flat areas but the temperature there wouldn't be as accurate as in the coolant. (3) I have bought an immerse switch already...

OK guys thanks again. Safe travels!
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:14 PM   #8
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You may have a bung on the lower radiator connection if you have the steel and copper radiator. They are not present on the aluminum radiators
I also believe source engineering sells the weld in bung and possible the whoe 90 with bung already installed
Plenty of threads her on WAX valve install if thats what you are doing. do a search

Let us know how it goes for ya,
greg
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
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X2 ~CA
???
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:21 PM   #10
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Pull the elbow off and install one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Bulkhead-Conn...dp/B08BHYM5PS/ Couple whacks with a 5lb hammer will help create a flat spot if necessary.
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
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???

X2 means times two, in that I would suggest the same thing you did.


BTW, CountryFit, I am not sure what the temperature switch is to be used for, however if you are using it to turn off and on an auxillary fan(s) or something similar, it is most common to have the sensor on the radiator coolant outlet and not the radiator inlet. I am not sure which is the outlet though on yours. ~CA
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Old 07-21-2021, 12:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryFit View Post
Thank you all! Seems like the consensus (almost) is option 2. You guys are awesome!

carybosse: It can be a little further down the stream, but there isn't a better place to do it. There is a sensor further down for ECM I couldn't mess with it. I'll try to find a ready made nut, if not stainless steel I'll go with a grade 5 steel nut it should be fine.

TandW and craigav: I had looked at the surface mount thermo switch but it's less than ideal for my purpose - 1) The pipe surface is a curve there isn't a good contact; (2) Engine block has flat areas but the temperature there wouldn't be as accurate as in the coolant. (3) I have bought an immerse switch already...

OK guys thanks again. Safe travels!
What I was referencing with the stream was if you were to drill & tap the pipe, that would put the sensor in the flow itself, potentially the most accurate temperature. If you go with option 2, the sensor would be outside of the flow, in what is effectively a dead end pipe. Pretty short, probably not an issue, but none of us really know what you are doing.

Can you post a picture/model number of the switch you purchased, might give someone else an idea. And when you finish the project, as payment for all the awesome advice you received (cough! cough!) we all want to see what you did and what you are using it for. Before and after pics are a must.
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Old 07-21-2021, 01:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnvrvin View Post
You may have a bung on the lower radiator connection if you have the steel and copper radiator. They are not present on the aluminum radiators
I also believe source engineering sells the weld in bung and possible the whoe 90 with bung already installed
Plenty of threads her on WAX valve install if thats what you are doing. do a search

Let us know how it goes for ya,
greg
Good to know the weld in bung from Source Eng. My lower radiator connection is a rubber tube clamped on to a short outlet, the other end of the rubber tube is clamped onto a long pipe routing back to engine. I couldn't install the thermo switch there as the coolant is already cooled. I am doing the mod like how ronandsue did.
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Old 07-21-2021, 01:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carybosse View Post
What I was referencing with the stream was if you were to drill & tap the pipe, that would put the sensor in the flow itself, potentially the most accurate temperature. If you go with option 2, the sensor would be outside of the flow, in what is effectively a dead end pipe. Pretty short, probably not an issue, but none of us really know what you are doing.

Can you post a picture/model number of the switch you purchased, might give someone else an idea. And when you finish the project, as payment for all the awesome advice you received (cough! cough!) we all want to see what you did and what you are using it for. Before and after pics are a must.
With option 2, the switch is still immersed into the coolant as I would drill a slightly larger hole then weld a nut on to it.

The thermo switch is this https://www.fleetoilandtrucksupply.c...032P_p_82.html . But don't think your pickup truck would have a Sauer Danfoss control, that this intends to address.

Members especially those veteran CC owners on this forum have known the issue of hydraulic fan control failure. Ours is shot; I feel so embarrassed when drive on a unpaved road that horrendous dust clouds are left behind, like a tornado is following me . Ron has done the pioneer job now I am gratefully doing the same.
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