Manual slide retract procedure

[CountryFit]

Hi gang, I ran into an issue that the front slide room momentarily moved then stopped moving today. I suspect the switch might have gone bad just like 3 years ago I had to replace the switch afterward. I tried to manually retract it with the build-in winch, and made sure the solenoid valves were fully opened (see pic attached), but the slide just won't budge. Did I miss anything? TIA.

[Ozzsp250]

I tried to manually retract mine but could not. The winch does not line up well on my coach and rather than damage anything I left well enough alone.

I had a slight leak from my synchronizing cylinder which I had rebuilt locally.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by Ozzsp250

I tried to manually retract mine but could not. The winch does not line up well on my coach and rather than damage anything I left well enough alone.

I had a slight leak from my synchronizing cylinder which I had rebuilt locally.

Thanks Dennis. The strap/winch on my coach appears lining up. Don't know why the hydraulic pressure is holding it up though the release valves are open.

Slide problems always occur at the worst time possible. I suppose to move out of this RV park tomorrow, have a day to work on .

[Ozzsp250]

I know if the pressure bleeds off the slide will move outwards.

Would it be worth bumping the pump with the bleeds open to see if pressure is relieved.

[CountryFit]

Update - After exhausted all of the possibilities/combinations that i could think of on the manual retract, I went back to square one. I took time to follow the electric flow (just like what people say when all is failed follow the money) -

- Ignition power present on the control panel
- Key switch on the control panel output
- Rocker switch in and out
- Fuses in the run bay
- Solenoids <<- here i found the problem - input 12v good but output 0v (when button was pressed). Had the wife press the retract button and I shorted the pump terminals concurrently, the pump was running and the slide was moving in smoothly.

Thank you Dennis for your inputs, and Happy Thanksgiving to all!

[dons2346]

So, I think what you are saying is that the switch in/out switch is bad?

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by dons2346

So, I think what you are saying is that the switch in/out switch is bad?

Don, not the rocker switch, the solenoid to bridge the hydraulic pump failed. For a 24 year old gig, I'm not surprised those things fail in any given day.

[JSMRV]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

Don, not the rocker switch, the solenoid to bridge the hydraulic pump failed. For a 24 year old gig, I'm not surprised those things fail in any given day.

Could you snap a pic of the solenoid for reference?

[Foxhallr]

Had the same issue on 08 Magna. Ordered relay on Amazon and took an hour to replace. $20-30 bucks to make 4 hydraulic slides work is a good deal! Jumping an inop relay should be in everyone’s skill set who owns one of these rigs! The other ones aging out are salesman and battery boost solenoids.

[spullon]

My hydraulic fluid was down, added NAPA R&O HYRAULIC OIL. No sure this is OK

[spullon]

Where is this located?

[Foxhallr]

The relay for the slides is literally strapped to the pump motor connected to the HWH manifold. Most if not all are in the compartment in front of driver front wheel. The pumps can be positioned north south as in my case or east west in the compartment. In certain models, there are 2 relays, one on either side of pump motor…a main and a secondary. The secondary (pictured above) is activated by the slide in/out switch. It wears out and stops passing power. That’s why jumping it works in emergencies.

[JSMRV]

Originally Posted by Foxhallr

Jumping an inop relay should be in everyone’s skill set who owns one of these rigs!

I’m assuming you’re bridging these wires with the jumper on the big nuts. Likely that middle wire with the little nut is the source to energize the relay right.

[Foxhallr]

Correct and yes. Also, wire gauge for jumper wire should be same as those being jumped.