Need advice towing a Country Coach

[Daryl in Fl]

What type of truck do I need to tow a 36 ft country coach magna with the tow bar connected to the front of the coach ?

[LJowdy]

A big one

[Chargerman]

Really . Attempting to flat tow a 36’ motorhome. Crazy dangerous.

How were you thinking of stopping it?

[Mr_D]

Something rated to tow the weight of the MH.

[BrianGlenn]

A commercial heavy tow truck with operator. The cradle needs to be low profile and extend under the fiberglass and attach to the arms of the IFS.

Sometimes an air line is connected depending on distance to keep auxiliary tanks pressurized and ensure ride height is maintained.

Note driveshaft should be completely removed. Not just disconnected from differential and hung.

EDIT. An alternative is to load the coach on to a low profile flat deck and haul completely off the ground.

[Smitty77]

Low profile would be my preference.
Smitty

[deandec]

Originally Posted by Daryl in Fl

What type of truck do I need to tow a 36 ft country coach magna with the tow bar connected to the front of the coach ?

You do not tell us what vintage your CC Magna is.

On my old Magna, CC provided a towbar that attached at the Generator Slideout frame in the nose of the rig and to a tow hitch ball.


I never used that tow bar and disposed of it due to the useless weight it represented.

Perhaps that tow bar could be used to pull the rig from a muddy field or similar situation, but highway Towing of the rig on a ball hitch would be exciting.

[turbine52]

When Calling a Tow Company know the following:
Type of front suspension: Solid front end usually before 2000 models and Independent Front Suspension (IFS) on most models after 2000
On IFS models know the distance from the center of wheels to extreme front of coach.
Weight of coach plus weight of each axle
Request a 60 ton tow truck for most of our larger coaches

Before lifting Coach make sure the tow company does the following:
Check records for any existing damage and take pictures
Connect to the proper chassis structure, preferably using the tire attachments rather than the “forks”.
Chain appropriately under chassis
Ensure safety chains installed
Pull both axles from rear(removing drive shaft is not recommended).
Cover hubs with face plates where axles were removed.
“Place protective pads on any surface where temporary cables or lights may have been added
Connect air and air up unit for proper ride height. If need be, you can use HWH to get more clearance, then pull fuse for HWH
Chain up or wrap rear mud flap
If front mounted generator ensure exhaust pipe will clear tow bar. If not plan on removal of exhaust to avoid damage.

Once Coach is Lifted
Measure the height of coach once lifted. Note front tires can be removed for more clearance if height is an issue
Ensure the tow driver knows the height of coach for bridges and tunnels.
Leave ignition in “on “ position to keep air ride working


Once in Shop
Inspect coach for any damage to coach
Suggest new gaskets if axles were removed and check fluids

[Arch Hoagland]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRD8nSoJCyU

I follow on YouTube a tow truck driver. That video shows him towing a diesel motorhome.

[IanSmith-UK]

Originally Posted by turbine52

When Calling a Tow Company know the following:
Type of front suspension: Solid front end usually before 2000 models and .....................................

Once in Shop
Inspect coach for any damage to coach
Suggest new gaskets if axles were removed and check fluids

To add to this comprehensive post

"Things I have learned whilst allied to the 'heavy towing' industry here in the UK and from self experience / research with the industry"

If an IFS front suspension - INSIST upon under-lifting on the wheels - any competent heavy recovery operative will know this

Remove any front generator exhaust - it eases the fitting of the underlift and prevents damage when the RV 'bounces' on the air suspension

REMOVE the prop-shaft (disconnect gearbox from axle) - it is a good idea every two / three years to clean, remove prop shaft bolts and reinstall with medium strength threadlock - nothing worse for a recovery guy to have to grind the bolts off in the pouring rain lying in the wet because of a lack of preventative maintenance (they tend to lose their sense of humour at this point !!)

Avoid the need to 'drape' the cable for recovery vehicle's tow board along the side of / over the RV by installing a dedicated multi-core cable (suitably 'plugged' at each end) beneath the RV when it is next in the workshop

Explore the possibility of 'back feeding' the RV's rear lights from your dedicated 'recovery' cable - allows the RV's rear lights to be used by the recovery truck's lights and means he only has to afix his registration mark
(we have to drop the recovery vehicle's voltage from 24 to 12 in order not to 'blow' the RV's tail lights )

When next is the workshop, check that the emergency (handbrake) air line connection point is clean and usable

(We have somewhat more issues than you guys when dealing with RV recovery, because of the difference with American 'imperial' fittings and the European penchant for all things metric )

Hoping none of us need this recovery advice

Like many things in the RV world - the easier you can make it for the recovery guy, the less $$$$$ it will cost you

With best wishes from the UK for the festive season and safe travels

Ian S.
Exeter UK
CC 2005 Allure 430 #31231
Cat C9

[mike brez]

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by mike brez

That should work, but I don't see any break away chains. Maybe some rope in the trunk?

[deandec]

4,000 lb car towing a 31,000 lb MH does not need breakaway chains.

Does need good acceleration response though.

[LJowdy]

Since this is "Daryl in FL's" first and only post I suspect he was trying to be funny and really isn't going to try to pull a coach with a truck via a tow bar.