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Old 10-20-2017, 06:17 PM   #1
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No alternator charge to house batteries

on 2006 CC, DELCO REMMY ALTERNATOR 200 A..puts out 13.6 volts when boost button is pressed in but when released no voltage increase to house bat.I remember there is a 4 psi switch in that charging circuit but don't remember what it's supposed to do. With no electrical drawing ....how do i check for operation??? The ECHO charge system must see at least13V to transfer charge to chassis bat .......now what????
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Old 10-20-2017, 06:59 PM   #2
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There should be a BIM or BIRD controller near the boost solenoid. It senses charging voltage and closes the body solenoid.
There is a delay to get the chassis battery voltage up, before activating the solenoid. Make sure you wait about 10 minutes before testing.
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Old 10-20-2017, 10:16 PM   #3
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The boost relay is activated by the dash switch and also an oil pressure switch. If voltage is up when you activate the boost switch but falls when engine is running then the oil pressure switch is faulty.
The system works using a high amp relay to combine both house and chassis so during engine operation all battery's are being charged. Once the engine is shut off and oil pressure drops the relay opens.
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Old 10-20-2017, 10:46 PM   #4
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A easy test if you have a volt meter is to check the voltage at with engine off on the house batteries should be at around 13.5 or more with the inverter running. Then check the starting battery if in the 12.x's then your ECHO is not working. I replaced mine with the AMP L Start just on cost plus it shows what's charging. Have been planning on getting a cheap permeant voltage meter to mount next to the Amp-L-start just to know what's going on. 12 Volt is a little funny you might want to clean all the connections in the battery bay that might solve the problem.
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Old 10-20-2017, 11:03 PM   #5
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Looking again at your post will need a lot more information where at you getting your voltage from? Did this just start or is it a new problem? Is the
Delco just installed?
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Old 10-21-2017, 02:33 PM   #6
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This should be the same as yours.The orange wire in front is the power for the relay coil and the blue and orange on back is a switched ground source for the coil.One is the boost switch and the other is the oil pressure switch. If you note the numbers on yours you can confirm.
If you need any help pm me.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:25 PM   #7
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Thanks for the quick answers to my issue...I will check on the situation tomorrow and review the results.
Any PN for the units in question???
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:30 PM   #8
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If its the oil pressure switch as i suspect its a simple 4psi single contact switch you can get at napa for less then 20 bucks. It will be on the side of the engine at the oil galley.There are a couple of them on the engine so you will want to identify the wire number and color. Tell me what engine you have and i might be able to be more specific on location.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:18 PM   #9
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found location of the 4 psi sw on my C-13 motor located in manual...also took pic of the relay solenoid PN Eaton #6041h105....Will be running the test as suggested in the next few days to determine what part is defective....maybe the echo part.
Not home right so its taken me longer to evaluate
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:20 PM   #10
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Completed electrical test and Echo unit is working as required and maintaining over 13 volts to the chassis battery. It's now down to the 4 psi switch. Will have son-in-law check this weekend. He's tall and thinner than myself. Part # in manual (18898 ) doesn't show up on any search engine, but several are available that look similar. I assume, and guess, it's a normally closed sw and many would serve the same purpose.
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelsokelso View Post
Part # in manual (18898 ) doesn't show up on any search engine, but several are available that look similar. I assume, and guess, it's a normally closed sw and many would serve the same purpose.
This may not apply to yours at all, but on my 2000 Affinity C-12, the 4psi oil switch is a dual contact model. It has both an NO and NC terminals. The wire diagram didn't make that distinction, and I couldn't tell from the old one until I got it out and really cleaned up. Visually mine has three terminals: NO, NC, and GND. The first switch I bought was just two terminals and didn't work.

Memory may be wrong, but I think the NO fed the engine ECM, and the NC fed the battery boost solenoid. I mostly just installed the new switch the same as the old and it worked so I didn't study it too close. My old switch was physically slowly leaking oil out through the diaphragm so it wasn't too hard to suspect it had failed.

I used Honeywell 76579. With that installed, the house batteries started charging from the alternator.
https://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/bf808...13ef2fe780.pdf

Again, yours may be different than mine; just wanted to highlight from my lesson learned that some of them are dual circuit switches.
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:46 AM   #12
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Thanks for that info (GRUSE)...would be very interested to view the electrical schematic you mentioned. My manual didn't have that.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by nelsokelso View Post
Thanks for that info (GRUSE)...would be very interested to view the electrical schematic you mentioned. My manual didn't have that.
Here's an image from my binder that represents what I have (should be a picture attached). A couple of my pages have slightly different details, and/or I'm reading them incorrectly. Item #12 has CC part # 18898, which I replaced w/ Honeywell 76579.

The .pdf file that should also be attached of chassis schematic S0773 is what I originally looked at, but it's different than the S0776 schematic. I didn't realize that until I was looking it up for you.

These are from my 2000 Affinity 42' C12 chassis.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:30 PM   #14
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Thanks again (Gruse) a picture tells allot...will check and replace in Arizona next week...after i get a new part.
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