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Old 02-13-2017, 08:50 AM   #29
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Thank you for the tips. I always watch when propane gets put in the tank and he used the open/closed switch. A couple of years ago person at a gas station tried to fill tank and didn't close that switch and it just comes back at you. I watched him reach in to the side of the tank and turn a valve, did not have a good angle however, there is really only one that I would consider.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:17 AM   #30
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Wanted to close this out and thank all of you for your suggestions. Had the Pressure Regulator replaced, believe their was contamination. This is why we replaced the Pressure Regulator back in 2016, because of contamination.
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Old 03-09-2017, 02:01 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty77 View Post
Seems like you've stumbled on my primary approach to problem solving. Procrastination, occasional choice words followed by a firm look when after letting things simmer, an attempt to see if the stars have aligned to make the problem go away...

(Please, let's keep that a secret between us!))

Good chance you had cold enough temperatures to have cause the problems, especially if they 'self corrected'... The slow closing of the valve, and then back on, will sometimes be enough to shake things flowing again. (More so in our Bounder then in our CC, which even in temperatures in the teens, has never failed to flow.)

Best of luck to you,
Smitty
I cured my cooktop problems by replacing it with an induction cooktop. Now I'm all electric although I do need to do some rewiring since I have to be on shore power or run the generator. Not good for overnight Wallydocking although I usually find a restaurant anyway.
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:36 AM   #32
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Would love to go all electric, it all comes down to how many dollars one has. I have to replace my Hydro-Hot (another post) at a cost of $8200 + labor and its slowing me down.
We have found a single induction cooktop and might be moving up the list to buy.
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