Radiator cooling fan running on high all the time?

[Smitty77]

I also want to thank Jeff and Dons2346 for their info sharing!! (Jeff, I LOL'd at the Engineering Geeky comment!).

GSanders1 was also very kind at making sure I knew that the FCU's had multiple trigger points to determine what speed to run the fans. (And I get that. Especially for those who just want to get in and drive... Which I am not!)

On our 04 Allure with the CAPS era ISL, when our FCU was behaving erratically - I did go to the Wax Valve approach, and was pleased with the product and install by Source Engineering.

I did add to my driving technique these steps: 1) I never activate the Jake on a non warmed engine. (Really not an add, as I have been doing that since I first bought the coach. I used SilverLeaf Coolant Temp as well as Oil Pressure level. Cummins Tech I talked with said he saw no real problem with running the Jake Compression on a non running temperature engine. But then said he understood the comment about higher oil pressure - so, it is just how I choose to operate. And I'm sure like many of you, I also try not to 'get into the diesel pedal' to heavily, until the engine is warm and oil is up to temp (lower pressure), for the Turbo's benefit too.); 2) AC. Well, I'm not an ECM or computer chip reading various sensor inputs - but I am able to 'control' the AC On/Off switch! (Just barely above the bar for that pay grade decision!) I choose to not Turn On the OTR AC until the same parameters of SilverLeaf Coolant Temp, and Oil Temp/Pressure parameters are met.

So IMO. The Wax Valve controlling the Fan Speed under the way I actively am involved as a driver - does a fine job on doing what a Radiator Fan is supposed to do!

When our Magna's FCU starts acting up (It was replaced with the newer unit by the previous owner in late 2018. So hoping not for awhile!, I'll go with another Source Engineering Wax Valve for our 'Dirty' Pre-DPF ISX600.

Best to all,
Smitty

[StubbyBus]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

Very good writeup, Jeff. Obviously you have walked extra miles on the issue. I like the idea of taking in the intake temp and a/c inputs. Do you know what the intake temp calling for the full speed is? Thanks!

The parameters my unit was configured with were intended for an ISC, but I don't think the ISL would require anything materially different. Intake temp minimum was 57C and max was 65C. The controller is running simple proportional (no PID) with max current at 1.15 A and min at 0.2 A. So just to be clear, if intake is the controlling input (hottest) the current would proportionally ramp from 1.15 down to 0.2A as the temp increases from 57 to 65C.

Jeff

[StubbyBus]

Originally Posted by UniqueName

Thanks SO MUCH for the link to the PLC! My first application may be in my off-road car. Great find. A link to a usable open source, low cost or free configuration package would be great (or a direct message of some sort).



Thanks

If you go to the IFM product page the download tab has all of the software tools you need to initialize, program and download to it.

One issue I've run into is that the free CODESYS is a very old version. It's difficult to find relevant help online, all the hits I get are for much more recent versions. I've also found some bugs, in particular with the curve fitting function I'd like to use to calculate temp as a function of an input resistance and an array of resistance to temp curve points.

IFM has a user forum, but they shut down new user registration and its pretty dead. I did ping the feedback link and they gave me an account but I haven't posted for code help yet.

It doesn't help that I'm an ME and utterly useless in code land.

Good luck,
Jeff

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by StubbyBus

The parameters my unit was configured with were intended for an ISC, but I don't think the ISL would require anything materially different. Intake temp minimum was 57C and max was 65C. The controller is running simple proportional (no PID) with max current at 1.15 A and min at 0.2 A. So just to be clear, if intake is the controlling input (hottest) the current would proportionally ramp from 1.15 down to 0.2A as the temp increases from 57 to 65C.

Jeff

Excellent info! The intake temp range 135-149f is in line with what I've read from other RVers on various discussion boards, now you've just confirmed it. Big thanks!

[Mainecoons]

I just looked at the Source Engineering site and wax valve kit. Not so simple to install as it requires welding. How are you all handling this? Looks like I'd have to go to a shop to get this change made.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by Mainecoons

I just looked at the Source Engineering site and wax valve kit. Not so simple to install as it requires welding. How are you all handling this? Looks like I'd have to go to a shop to get this change made.

When I did my install (Cummins engine), I found it to be a very easy conversion. I sourced all the parts individually to bring down the cost (about 50% savings).

To remove the thermostat housing you drain about two gallons of coolant (just enough to get the level below the thermostat). Remove the hose and two bolts and the housing comes off. I took my housing to a welding shop to have the bung welded on (cost was $20-). Drill out housing where the bung is installed.

While you’re at it, replace the thermostat. Install housing, thermostat and o-ring. Install wax valve (it uses a o-ring, so it can be turned in any direction). Install hose and refill with coolant you drained (I filter it through fabric). Install hydraulic lines.

Bill

[dons2346]

Originally Posted by Mainecoons

I just looked at the Source Engineering site and wax valve kit. Not so simple to install as it requires welding. How are you all handling this? Looks like I'd have to go to a shop to get this change made.

Due to time constraints, I had Source do the complete install. That included the 90 degree fitting from the thermostat housing to the radiator hose.