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Old 09-14-2021, 01:16 PM   #1
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Radiator cooling fan running on high all the time?

Isn't there some sort of switch in the stock 8.3 ISC engine that was used in the 2002 Allure? I know some people set them to run on high all the time but we do not need to do that. How do we restore the normal fan control that will have it run slower at least part of the time?
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Old 09-14-2021, 01:47 PM   #2
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Did it just start doing this?

And yes some people install a switch to cause the fan to run high all the time. They did not come from factory that way, as far as 8 am aware

One.source to check is the fuse for.the fan controller. I have heard it is located in the bay below the driver. If this fuse is blown it will cause the fan to go all out default position

There are also a couple sensors that the controller uses air temp sensor and coolant liquid sensor...may be hard to find for purchase

Greg
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Old 09-14-2021, 02:38 PM   #3
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I had the same problem, so back in 2016 I had Source Engineering install the wax valve. The only down side is I have to have the ac off until we are on the road and up to temp, works great. Coolant temperatures run 190 to 192degs most of the time.
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Old 09-14-2021, 03:01 PM   #4
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At this point I want to try to get the original system working again and see how it does. I can always pull the fuse and default to full on if necessary and then make the wax valve modification. My question is how to find and trouble shoot the original system.
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Old 09-14-2021, 03:15 PM   #5
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Apparently the stock fan controller is a DanFoss, something like this.

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents...5en-US0303.pdf

Any idea where this is located so we can run a quick check on it? Fan is on high now full time so the controller is either dead or just needs a fuse/connection check.
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Old 09-14-2021, 03:24 PM   #6
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The SD fan controller is located on the rear side of the fan housing down low. You can see it by looking up from underneath. It could be the controller has failed. Mine did and it failed in a mode to run on high speed at all time.


I'm not sure how the ISC is set up but on my CAT C10 there are 3 sensors. One on the over the road air conditioner compressor, and two temperature sensors; one in the engine coolant line and one in the turbo charger air duct. I did have the two temperature sensors fail once and the fan would only run on low speed.


It is true that if the fan controller loses power it will default to high speed. Some people disconnect the power to keep the engine from over heating until they can get the system repaired.


If you decide the controller is bad you can replace the electronic portion of the controller, not the whole controller. It takes some time to receive one as the controllers are manufactured in England and they have to be programmed for your engine. If you take this route be sure to get the numbers off of the ID tag on the controller.


As mentioned, some have given up the the SD controller and installed a thermal wax valve. Search the forum and you will find a great deal of information on both the SD controller and the thermal wax valve.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:40 PM   #7
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I had my SD controller fail (again) while traveling from Chicago to Grand Canyon. Short story is that had I nor installed a switch to override the controller to high speed we would have a damaged Motorhome. I priced the controller from Sauer Danfoss at $2200.00 dollars (May 2021 price from Berendson fluid power) and a 3 month wait. The controllers are custom programmed for the engine type. I have ordered the Source RV wax valve kit at $695.00 and will install. Much more reliable “analog” system. Search the blog for more opinions. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainecoons View Post
Apparently the stock fan controller is a DanFoss, something like this.

https://assets.danfoss.com/documents...5en-US0303.pdf

Any idea where this is located so we can run a quick check on it? Fan is on high now full time so the controller is either dead or just needs a fuse/connection check.
My Sauer Danfoss controller failed and caused our fan to run in high full time. Like 2 Stroker and others, we switched to a Source Engineering thermal wax valve.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:26 PM   #9
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I’ve replaced two SD controllers, gave up and moved to the wax valve.

Good thread here that talks about the wax valve, how it works and problems associated with it,

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/fan...en-376611.html

Bill
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Old 09-15-2021, 11:01 PM   #10
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First thing you do before blowing a bunch of bucks is to get under the coach and take the electrical connectors apart and clean them. Here is a replacement for the Danfoos controller, very simple
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File Type: pdf Fan Controller option copy reduced.pdf (314.0 KB, 15 views)
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Old 09-16-2021, 08:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
First thing you do before blowing a bunch of bucks is to get under the coach and take the electrical connectors apart and clean them. Here is a replacement for the Danfoos controller, very simple


Very ingenious solution. First time I’ve seen this option. Very cool.

Thanks for sharing.

Brian
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Old 09-22-2021, 05:08 PM   #12
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I've had a long history playing fighting with Danfoss fan controllers. I started typing up the detail but it was getting too damn long. So, the powerpoint version:

• Seven years ago my fan controller died, no output, fan always on high speed (and to reinforces other’s comments, it is failsafe, the fan runs full speed if the controller faults, fails or loses power)

• New one was defective and recalled by Danfoss for “a configuration error”

• But in debugging that defective unit I learned a huge amount about the controllers through conversations with Danfoss tech support, online research, testing and experimenting

• Don’t even think about kludging together an IR interface to talk to the old units. I spent massive amounts of time buying NOS controllers for cheap on Ebay and trying to talk to them.

• New units are CAN interface for programming. Software to adjust parameters and download firmware is free from Danfoss but they charge an arm & a leg for their OEM’d CAN-USB interface. I scored a used interface at a reasonable price (Danfoss CG-150).

• New CAN units are identifiable by the grey, 3 pin Deutsche connector with a cap in place.

• For a while Danfoss sold the new controllers with flawed firmware. I built a bench test system (potentiometers in place of the thermistor inputs and a switch for the aux (AC) input. With this and the ability to monitor the controller real time via the interface I was able to show that the aux input was not behaving correctly. When closed (AC calling for cooling) the fan current was going to max current, yielding low speed. The setting in the parameter interface that should flip this logic was not. That behavior is intended for a fire safety switch as an aux input, turn off the fan in an engine fire to prevent fanning the flames but the exact opposite of what you want in our case.

• Danfoss confirmed my observations, modified the code and sent new firmware to me.

• I confirmed the new code behaves as expected, installed it on the rig and tested correctly. All was right with the world, for 9 months. It went flaky briefly then died completely again. No output and no CAN communications.

• I’d had enough, time to cut my losses. No more Danfoss.

• Current system: built cable running from controller 12VDC supply directly to the solenoid valve (bypasses the controller). At the dash I pulled the fuse and connected the output of a PWM motor controller with digital display to the supply line to the controller. I manually control the fan speed based in the temp shown on my Silverleaf display (dash gauge is a joke). It keeps me awake. This is similar to Dons2346’s solution but with access to adjust the fan real time and without the limit switch (damn good idea Don!). My implementation has a subtle challenge involving chassis ground and the common PWM motor controller architecture. Ping me if you are contemplating this.

• Meanwhile, I’ve acquired and am programming an IFM CR0403 automotive PLC to do the job. There are many devices out there that can run a fan based on inputs, including dedicated fan controllers that compete directly with the Danfoss FCA. The problem is either hardware cost or crazy expensive software to do the programming. For instance, Danfoss GUIDE software to program their PLCs is $1500 and $300/year (quoted in 2016). The side benefit with the PLC is it can do many other things, including collecting other inputs and broadcasting their values on the CANbus to be read at the dash. The CR0403 is low cost, particularly in the secondary market, the software to program it is free and their CAN-USB interface is reasonable cost.

• The first question is going to be “why not just do a wax valve”. I’m a geeky engineer type (obviously), I see the value in the intake temp and AC inputs and don’t want to dumb the system down to just coolant temp control.

Cheers,
Jeff
2001 32' Intrigue - 1st year with an ISL

Tech bulletin for new FDC/FDCA version including part cross-reference old to new:
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File Type: pdf Fan Drive Control and Fan Drive Control Assembly.pdf (367.1 KB, 4 views)
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:37 PM   #13
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Very good writeup, Jeff. Obviously you have walked extra miles on the issue. I like the idea of taking in the intake temp and a/c inputs. Do you know what the intake temp calling for the full speed is? Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2021, 09:58 AM   #14
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Thanks SO MUCH for the link to the PLC! My first application may be in my off-road car. Great find. A link to a usable open source, low cost or free configuration package would be great (or a direct message of some sort).



Thanks
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