Replacing ignition key switch

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

Update -

With the new ignition switch and starter solenoid installed, engine still won't start. I connected a multimeter to the coil terminals of the starter solenoid and watched the voltage while my wife started the engine, no power reached at it. Put the old ignition switch back on, the same result.

To make it happen that at least we could drive to the RV park we reserved, I tried to trick the engine - let wife start the engine as normally do, at the moment of her turnning to start engine, I manually applied 12v to the coil, engine was right up running.

We were excited and started to pack things up and hook up the toad. When we were ready to take off, wait, transmission shifter had no power! Rig won't move!!

Checked the chassis fuse box under the dash towards left, and found out that the fuse for line #75 "shifter and cruise control" had been burned out. Put a new fuse on, no cure. I noticed that once the key was on "preheat" position, the fuse would be burned out.

Now I am clueless. Could the chassis power management system detect the shifter pad out of power and cut off the power to starter solenoid, or they are two independent issues? What else can I check before calling for roadside assistence? (We all know that the most unwanted breakdown always takes place at the worst time and location. This is a long weekend and no shop opens, and the heatwave is sweeping the valley where we are right in it - at Buttonwillow rest area, west of Bakersfield ).

Please keep your advices coming! I really appreciate it.

I'm wondering if you are having the same problem I had on my old coach. The transmission module failed to allow the start signal through to the starter. I chanced onto a by-pass accidentally. This was before I knew what the problem cause was.
Try going to ACC (mine is to the left) and then turn the key right, all the way to start. Hope that works.
The module is located on top of the transmission.
Happy trails,
Rick

[Npkp]

Exact same thing happened to us up at Bullards Bar a few years ago. If you haven't tried already, move gear shift to the neutral position and try to start it. I left mine in park for 8 hours of diagnostic testing and mistakenly bumped the shifter with my head. Started right up. Neutral safety switch mounted on the side of the transmission was the problem.
Made of plastic, $40 from auto parts store, 2 bolts and 1 connector. Hope this helps.

[CountryFit]

Thanks Brad, Rick and Npkp... I'll do a wrap up later...

[deandec]

My no start problem was the ground connection for the Ignition solenoid in the Front Run Box.

I created a new ground point and it started

And, yes, I have a brand new three year old ignition switch on the shelf as a result.

[CountryFit]

After replacing a few items, the shifter still had no power, I knew the time to call for experts had arrived, so I called Good Sam Roadside Assistance.

Over the years I have read feedback about them on this and other boards. And more so on the comparison with Coach-net. I had never had a chance to call either in the past 11 years. This time I kept my expectations low.

What amazed me the most was GS was rather very courteous, and attentive. Reported on Monday at 11:00am, they immediately worked diligently, reached out to various vendors, and called me back to update with status. At least 4 supervisors got involved in different shifts other than the reps themselves. Monday was the last day of the long weekend, finding an adequate tow truck was difficult. Twice they even tried to bring tow trucks from Los Angeles. But both trucks had never showed up although their office ladies told me on the phone that their trucks were on the way and arriving in 40 or 60 minutes.

Left a voice mail to Cummins Service Dept, a lady called me back very quickly. She told me where to drop it off, and tomorrow morning the technician will check it out.

On Tuesday the truck from Los Angeles again was no show. At 3:00pm, finally a local tow truck came in, Castro Towing from Buttonwillow. Two people, right before one started to remove the drive shaft, the driver looked up the front hook up area, "Nope, can't tow. This coach doesn't have the straight rails; towing on the small bars will damage the suspension. Need a lowboy."

Put the supervisor and the driver on the phone. I overheard the driver saying $3800 for the lowboy and another truck, and the supervisor agreed. As it was a little late, and loading onto lowboy wouldn't be as easy so we set to do it next day on Wednesday morning.

Called Cummins again to confirm the next day drop off, this time the person picked up the phone was the service manager. He heard my story and said it didn't appear to be engine related. They worked on coaches along with engine issues but with very little knowledge on the OE and Allison. He said he would hate to see that if they couldn't work on it, I had to tow it again. The best bet was going to Valley Power Systems as they were Allison authorized dealer. Honest person wasn't he?

Wednesday morning passed as the driver said he was waiting for another truck. At 2:00pm, 4 people came over with 3 heavy trucks and a lowboy. I bypassed the transmission and ran the engine to air up the bags and release the brakes. And sat in the cockpit and steered it while the truck pulled the rear hitch of the coach onto the lowboy. Attached photo was after the load up.

Got to Valley Power before 5:00. The technical adviser wrote up the order and told me that the diagnosis would be carried out in the morning, for $330. That was very reasonable and I prepared to hear a few grand the next day. They locked the fence every night, so no sleep in the coach overnight. Luckily we had our SUV geared for offroad usage with a fridge and full bed in it. Stayed at Cracker Barrel's RV parking area for the night, and in the morning entered the store and had our favored breakfast.

Thursday, the big day. When the technician came in, I opened the entrance door, the front run bay, the battery bay and the next breaker bay, and explained what was going on then entered the guest room as their safety rule required. About 20 minutes later, the tech came in saying there was a fuse, for Allison ECU, blown. He replaced it, now the engine started and no other symptoms. What? Sounded like too good to be true! I walked back and tried it myself, viola! It did just like how it had been doing one click and run.

Excited? Wait for more. At the counter, the same adviser handed me the final bill... $247!! No, not a typo! It blew my mind away! Including "to get a drink to chill off" for the tow truck driver and for this Allison tech, (they worked hard under 114 f sunshine), I was merely $287 thinner of the wallet!!

How could anyone not appreciate those honest people? From GS, Cummins, Castro Towing to Valley Power, they made me believe in people again! If you ever have a need for Allison services, and Bakersfield is on your route, stop there and you won't be disappointed.

I would also like to take this opportunity to thank you all who responded to this thread and shared your knowledge! Safe travels!

[dons2346]

Steve, I have followed this from the beginning. Unless I have something constructive to add, I stay out.
After all this, if we ever meet up, drinks and dinner are on me.


BTW, I have seen your coach before in a campground on the OR coast.?

[CountryFit]

Don, it would be super exciting to meet up, but cold on me :-).

We have been at Oregon coast in summer/fall for years. Many times some people walked by and told us that they saw us in xxx park... Next time hit me up, let's have some fun .

[Ozzsp250]

Great news for sure and what are saga. Do you know where the fuse for the Allison ECU is located.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by Ozzsp250

Great news for sure and what are saga. Do you know where the fuse for the Allison ECU is located.

I feel that was only piece I missed. The controller is in the front run bay under the driver seat. I looked up my Allison user manual but nowhere mentions the fuse. I'll keep digging...

[deandec]

Was the fuse for wire #75 the fuse Valley Power fixed or is it still blown?

The only fuses mentioned in the Allison Transmission manual that I have relate to the battery connection. That would seem to be your Wire #75 fuse.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by deandec

Was the fuse for wire #75 the fuse Valley Power fixed or is it still blown?

The only fuses mentioned in the Allison Transmission manual that I have relate to the battery connection. That would seem to be your Wire #75 fuse.

I think it's a different fuse. The #75 fuse wasn't blown after I plugged in a 10a fuse. My impression was there is another fuse for Allison ECU specifically. There are many fuses on our coach for major components such as slides, air system, leveling, etc. Those fuses are typically not in chassis or coach fuse boxes. We may never run into them and they remain to be mystic.

[wfalch]

Just a guess but would it not make sense that a fuse for the transmission be in the panel underneath the shift control?

[CountryFit]

I have searched the box under the shifter, no fuses there. In the box, there is a loomed cable for the shifter, the rest is the harness for cruise control, battery booster switch, head lights etc.

[Ozzsp250]

CountryFit: you made me look, on my coach in front bay under drivers seat I have 2 Allison boxes one is ECU and the other has label 12 volt 6 relay. It would not surprise me to see a fuse inside the relay box as it appears the lid in bolted on. I do not see any external fuses on/in the wire bundles associated with the two boxes. I know under my shifter panel inside the coach its like a rats nest of wires most of which appear to be 10 feet longer than needed.

I may get the courage to appear in the relay box....

I did look online and the these control boxes are available at a cost.