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Old 03-25-2022, 02:45 PM   #1
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Roof sealing-painting

Looking for some first hand experience with re-coating our roofs.
I've read countless forum posts but haven't see very many specific to CC.



My roof now has some



Looking at a couple of different products, Bus Kote, Henrys 887 or 871, Dicor..


Thoughts?


Thanks.
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Old 03-25-2022, 03:50 PM   #2
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I cleaned my roof and then applied the Dicor product for fiberglass and I am very happy with the results. One gallon gave me two coats on a 40 foot Magna.
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Old 03-25-2022, 03:52 PM   #3
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We put BusKote on our 04 Allure. And refreshed it once. We felt the heat transference reaction, was worth the costs. (40', with X's 2 15K AC, and a a dark maroon front cap - so our AC's worked hard when in above say 100F Southwest temps...).

IF you have a lighter color coach, or three AC units. Then that extra heat protection is not as important. In that case, and for our 45' Magna with X's 3 15K AC units - I'll probably go with a Marine Boat Deck paint, with UV protection. I will not add grit, as it is a 'dust/dirt' clinger! Do some searches, but when I looked - I decided to not go with the more expensive Two Part Deck Paints (Really - on a roof, not THAT much foot traffic!!!)... I'll probably go with Rust-Oleum Topside. KISS approach... And of course... No matter what you choose... Prep work is the difference...

(And by the way BusKote is a good, expensive, product - but overkill unless the maximum heat gain protection, and sure some (Very little.) noise reduction - is important for your coaches usage...)

Best of luck,
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Old 03-25-2022, 06:24 PM   #4
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I cleaned my roof and then applied the Dicor product for fiberglass and I am very happy with the results. One gallon gave me two coats on a 40 foot Magna.
Same here. Works great.
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Old 03-26-2022, 06:44 PM   #5
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I chose to use the Rust-Oleum Topcoat paint. I sanded the roof with 80 grit sand paper after removing everything I felt should be removed. I patched a few screw holes with epoxy and then sanded them smooth. Put one coat of their primer waited 3 days put down one coat of Topcoat waited 3 days and then put another coat of Topcoat. Looked great and seems to be holding up like a refinished roof. I also bought some SM 504 ( if I recall correctly) self levelling sealer (it is what CC used) to go around and over the mounted device seems.
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Old 03-28-2022, 12:02 AM   #6
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Uhhhh, new to County Coach here. One should coat their fiberglass roof? I'm pretty sure I should have asked this question prior to mounting all those solar panels...
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Old 03-28-2022, 09:10 AM   #7
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Uhhhh, new to County Coach here. One should coat their fiberglass roof? I'm pretty sure I should have asked this question prior to mounting all those solar panels...
Much depends upon the care the coach has had. Chalking/White Streaks, running down the side of your coach after a drizzle or rain - is an indication the roof has not been well cared for. Coaches in less heat and UV beating down, roofs will last and hold up much longer.

Unless you want to paint, and be done with it except for maintenance and probably a fresh coat in say 4-6 years (Depending upon the part of the country, and mentioned heat and UV!) - another way to go is:

> Deep polish cleaning with a buffer
-If the fiberglass is not in too bad of shape, an Polish/Wax compound might be all that you need to do.
-If it's gone to far. Then a more aggressive compound to polish it out, followed by a wax.

> Many do a deep cleaning yearly. Wash with Dawn, to cut waxes and grease and dirt, etc. Then apply a good wax. And many also follow with Aerospace 303 UV protection on top of that. (Which I have use, and still do, on many items of the coach. But I've also used Zaino's ZCS, with a is a sealer with good UV protection. It seemed to hold up a few months longer then the Aerospace 303.)

> Others put on Zep, or other floor wax sealers, once the cleaning is done

As mentioned, we did the BusKote to maximize heat gain resistance via the roof, on our allure. Our roof was in good enough shape that a weekend of sore legs from buffing the roof, and sealing with the wax and Zaino afterwards - brought our top back into good shape.

Many opinions, and products and approaches. (Oh, and I agree that the mentioned Dicor product gets great reviews too...). Do some searching on the top of the overall IRV2 search engine, and you'll find many posts from many coaches and trailers and fivers on "Fiberglass Roof".


Enjoy your coach, best,
Smitty
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Old 03-28-2022, 09:30 AM   #8
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Mine has some kind of coating on it now and I have tried to clean it but it just needs to be redone. Not concerned about cost as my time is free and want it done right. It for now is parked outside so gets direst sun just about all day, snow in winter and up to high 90*'s in the summer. I'm hoping to get it indoors in the future but for now I want to get it prepared for summer.


I have read so many opinions on what to use but to many don't have a similar roof so thought I'd check with CC owners.
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Old 03-28-2022, 02:38 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by caryt View Post
Mine has some kind of coating on it now and I have tried to clean it but it just needs to be redone. Not concerned about cost as my time is free and want it done right. It for now is parked outside so gets direst sun just about all day, snow in winter and up to high 90*'s in the summer. I'm hoping to get it indoors in the future but for now I want to get it prepared for summer.


I have read so many opinions on what to use but to many don't have a similar roof so thought I'd check with CC owners.

You know. With a C-15 purring little CAT - you could just punch it while driving thru a dash of hail from above - it will clean your roof off just fine...

(Yeah. Just getting my posts count up!!!)

No right or wrong, just choices... And of course, lots of opinions on ALL subjects - and that's for sure very cool as lots of products available!

Smitty
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Old 03-31-2022, 04:58 AM   #10
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Smitty & Griffon - Did you do all of the steps in the Dicor video? Tape and tarp off sides. Clean roof. Tape seams. Re-Dicor all penetrations. Clean roof again. Then two coats of Dicor.
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Old 04-04-2022, 05:37 AM   #11
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dicor

i wouldn't use the dicor prep and clean,or what ever they call it. very hard to drape the entire coach, and have it stay on , also the cleaner will run down somewhere, and if you don't catch it in time it will damage the paint. i think i had to do three coats of the dicor, ( seemed to be very thin ) wouldn't use it again. it looks good and should last several years.
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Old 04-04-2022, 10:03 AM   #12
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Smitty & Griffon - Did you do all of the steps in the Dicor video? Tape and tarp off sides. Clean roof. Tape seams. Re-Dicor all penetrations. Clean roof again. Then two coats of Dicor.
No I did not. I've never used Dicor roof product paint (But have their other products!).

Again, much depends upon the condition of the roof being prepared for coaching! But, suggest:

- Wash the roof with Dawn dish-liquid. It cuts grease, and wax build up. (And I do this yearly for the full coach too, before the main waxing for the season!)

- Per whatever product you are using. Do the next prep. IMO, even if not called for, nothing works better for good adhesion, then a scuffed up surface. Mechanical orbital sander, with a medium grit.

- Knock off/remove any loose sealant.

- Either wash again with Dawn. Or, I've also gone over the full roof with a series of micro towels attached to a Swifter (Like standing, vs on my knees, at this age!) - and use acetone. For our 40' Allure, I used about 15 micro towels, changing frequently.

- Then based upon the directions, either paint and or prime the surface if needed. Do the appropriate recommended coats.

- Get up and reseal caulking. After I put down fresh caulking, I also use strips of Eternabond Tape over the top of the sealant. This makes this a 'one and one' as the Enternabond is tough, and protects the sealant. This is especially good around solar domes, and also roof top vents. Smaller areas, I do not always put Eternabond over - but do early sealant and caulking review/touchups. If this is a coach with transistions from the front and rear caps to the roof - putting a bead on self leveling caulking along the leading front edge of the Eternabond tape, all help keep driving rain from working it's way under (Though frankly, the tape adheres so well, this more prevalent a problem rubber or EPM roofs - vs fiberglass!).

Pick a product, and put in the old 85% of Prep work, to make it as successful a job as possible!

Smitty
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Old 04-04-2022, 04:23 PM   #13
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I decided to try Rust-Oleum Topside. Once weather stays nice for a week I'll start. I picked up 4 qts which should be enough.
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Old 04-06-2022, 10:00 AM   #14
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Buscoat

We applied Buscoat in quite a few years ago (2008 I believe?). I sanded the roof of our 2000 magna using a palm sander with a medium grain paper (120?) and then with a light grain paper (220?).... I went over the whole center part of the roof and feathered down about 1" over the clear coat paint towards the sides. I did nothing on the clear coat over the edge of the roof. We are talking about repainting the roof, but recently a technician did a complete walk over our coach and said that our roof was one of the best he's seen in a coach over 10yrs old (0urs is 22yrs old and just over 150,000 miles). Nevertheless, we will probably recoat again with Buscoat. And, this time I'll probably paint the roof edge down to the decorative rail around the border between sides and roof.... mostly because the clear coat is flaking off and it clearly needs some sort of help. IMHO the Buscoat did "something" with respect to heat/cooling efficiency, but not a whole lot. I think psychology and wishful thinking to justify the cost/work-effort contributed to our interpretation of benefits. So, while we will probably re-apply Buscoat, I think the main benefit is the longevity of the final result. Our roof is definitely in good shape and I presume much of that is due to how well the Buscoat has held up over the years. As always, YMMV, but we are happy with the product. (P.S. Clearly a key to our success was the 85% preparation effort prior to the actual 15% labor of painting...)
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