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Old 03-07-2014, 09:51 AM   #1
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Royal Flush toilet

Our Royal-Flush NeoClassic toilet was progressively getting harder and harder to flush and we had to use the plunger almost all the time.
I was thinking that it was the swing valve located in the pipe going to the black water tank. It was located under the refrigerator and the whole system was glued together. My plumbing schematic showed the swing valve with rubber hose connections and clamps so it could easily be replaced, but they cemented ours in.
One day last week I decided enough was enough and pulled the toilet out to see if I could fix it. It wasn’t a restriction of the waste water going out, but a restriction of the flushing water coming in.
I found an online manual on the toilet that had a section in the back on routine maintenance that said:

Your Royal Flush system has been designed for trouble-free operation. No moving parts ever touch the waste stream, so clogging is very unlikely. In the event of a plugged line, a “Drain King” type hose fitting can be used effectively to remove a blockage.
CHECK THE INLET STRAINERS ON A MONTHLY BASIS. The inlet strainer on your Hydro-Vac flush valve is your system’s major line of defense against failure. Keeping your inlet strainers clean and in good condition will eliminate most common problems.

Our strainer wasn’t the problem; it was all the lines and fittings after it. After wintering in Yuma, AZ for the past 6 seasons, the hard minerals in the water solidified in the system. We have 2 water filters in our water system but they don’t remover calcium deposits.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:20 AM   #2
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Thanks for posting the result. Very educational. Looks like a water softener is on your wish list.
1995 38' CC Magna #5280
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:57 AM   #3
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I am currently in the Palm Springs area and after reading posts and talking to people in the area I elected to rent a water softener. I was concerned about the water lines but also the very costly Aqua Hot.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:56 PM   #4
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Call willmarwater and buy the one that they make 320 235 1420
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:22 PM   #5
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Similar Problem; Still not Solved

I had the exact same problem, e-mailed headhunter who tried to help with the standard diagnosis, but they were really helpful but still no luck in figuring out the problem. Found this post, found the screen but that wasn't the fix although it needed cleaned (although still not sure I want to go through all that I went through to get the screen out all that often), took everything apart and sure enough had build up of what I assume was calcium but it could have been a bunch of different minerals, cleaned everything out, hooked everything up but still not fixed. Can the solenoid go bad? Can the little black lines from the push button (to flush the tank) go bad and how can those be tested? The black water line past the toilet bowl is clear I'm just not getting any air pressure during the flush although the tank is reading 40psi with no water pressure in the system and 60 with water pressure. Thoughts?
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:39 PM   #6
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We have the non-electric Hydro-Vac version of the Neoclassic. I found this about your electric version:
Time Delay Module, Touch Switch, and Flush Valve
The electronic time delay switch module (P/N 6WTD-MOD) is the small black rectangular
box fixed inside the back of the bowl. Each time delay switch module has 6 wires that are
connected as follows:
2 White wires to the touch switch on the toilet
Red wire to DC positive (+)
Black wire to DC negative (-)
2 Purple wires connect to the solenoid coil (non-polarity sensitive)
The valve can be operated manually to test your installation. Turn the white bleed lever (located
on the side of the valve, beneath the solenoid) so that it lies horizontally – at right angles to the
axis of the solenoid. The valve will open and allow water into the toilet. Return the bleed lever
to the vertical position – in line with the axis of the solenoid - to allow normal operation.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:07 PM   #7
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We spent 5 winters in Yuma, AZ with a water softener and still had the deposits in the pipes. We used a Travelsoft RV 1200 and it worked great for showers and laundry.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:19 PM   #8
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Ours is non-electric also; no wires or boxes in the back. There are several "air" lines coming from the button running to different spots (the solenoid valve being one of them) in the back of the toilet but they are air lines not electrical. I'd like to fix the toilet before thinking about a water softener. Thanks
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:03 PM   #9
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Behind the toilet you will find a lever that directs water to the rim during flushing. Turn it off and try flushing.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:29 AM   #10
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Yep, I have had that lever in every position and no change. The toilet still doesn't flush although it sounds like water is coming in and a little going out but no pressure. Accumulator psi with no water pressure is at 46psi
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:14 AM   #11
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Did anyone find an answer to the Headhunter Hydrovac flush problem other than the calcium build-up?
Hal & Ginny Miller '04 Beaver Santiam PRT40
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:28 AM   #12
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[QUOTE=H. Miller;2963273]Did anyone find an answer to the Headhunter Hydrovac flush problem other than the calcium build-up?[/

Had to replace the hydro valve on the back of the toilet when our Royal Flush Neo Classic failed to flush. Headhunters in Miami, FL were very helpful in diagnosing and getting me the right part. That was 2 years ago, and everything still in great operating condition. Good luck. Safe travels.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:48 AM   #13
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Sometimes its not the pressure that's the problem, it's volume. The volume comes from both the water coming into the coach and the amount stored in the accumulator tank.
Try filling your fresh water tank and when you need to use the toilet, turn on your water pump. When the pump stops running, try flushing. If it flushes ok now, the problem is in the accumulator is the problem.

If your problem is the accumulator tank, there should be a large lever near the tank that shuts off the water going to the tank and toilet; turn it off then locate the small dump lever that is located near the pressure gauge and open it. This will run all the water out of the accumulator onto the ground outside the coach. It will take some time to completely empty so you will not be able to use the toilet for about an hour or two. After it is empty, turn the little drain lever to close and open the supply lever. After the tank is full again, try flushing. You will hear a lot of air coming from the lines first off, but then you should see it flush normal again. You could call this a re-booting of your system.

Good Luck
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:42 AM   #14
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I spoke to headhunter last week. In troubleshooting the accumulator tank, the tech told me to press the shrader valve at the end of the tank. If water comes out the tank is bad... bladder has gone bad. I get water from the shrader valve, so.. plan to replace my accumulator tank. On my coach the tank is difficult to get to -- it's behind the toilet and in a small compartment beneath the washer/dryer. Should be a fun project and get all my unused muscles sore as I twist and turn to get old one out and new one in. As someone else said, .. you can get this tank for about $50 from other sources whereas Headhunter charges about $300
Hugh 'n Deb - USAF Retired B-52 Pilot
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