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Old 07-31-2022, 08:04 AM   #1
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Slide Adjustment - looking for advice

During our last two trips I noticed a loud creaking sound when we drove over severely uneven roads. Upon inspection I noticed no gap/space between the slide and the coach body on the living room passenger slide. It looks like it is rubbing in the forward bottom corner. The rest of the slide bottom and sides have an even gap/space. The other three slides all have even gaps. Can you tell me how I adjust the slide up on that corner?

Much appreciated!
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Old 07-31-2022, 08:17 AM   #2
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Well, I can tell you what I did. With the slide retracted, inside the coach, I put a jack underneath the slide to take the weight. I then removed six screws that attach the X-frame slide to the wall. Using the jack I adjusted the height of the slide to create the desired gap. I then drilled new holes in the X-frame slide mechanism near the old screw holes. I then re-used the self-tapping screws that I previously removed to reattach the slide mechanism to the wall. I now have a very nice gap like it was or should have been.
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Old 07-31-2022, 08:37 AM   #3
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My coach is a 2006. There is wood molding in the front of the wall. I assume the x-frame is inside that?
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Old 07-31-2022, 09:02 AM   #4
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I too have wood molding on the front, but I have a folding curtain on the side of my slide. The curtain is removed with a few screws along the wall side and exposes the X-frame slide mechanism. I have no idea of the type of slide on your coach. I did not have to disturb any wood trim.
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Old 07-31-2022, 02:43 PM   #5
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Thanks Bons.
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Old 08-18-2022, 11:06 AM   #6
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I have X slides and do not have to adjust them to get the bottom margin correct, make sure you don't have adjusters that lift the bottom of the slides. All 3 of my slides do.
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Old 08-19-2022, 05:42 AM   #7
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Caryt, thank you. I just PM’d you.
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Old 08-19-2022, 09:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
I have X slides and do not have to adjust them to get the bottom margin correct, make sure you don't have adjusters that lift the bottom of the slides. All 3 of my slides do.
Please elaborate on what you know? We can all benefit.
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Old 08-20-2022, 09:07 AM   #9
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Here are some pictures of the slide height adjusters, drivers side has rollers and passenger slide has a UHMW center adjuster.
I also modded the drivers slide adjusters as the engineering was OK but the fabrication was poor. I added a 1/2" plate to the top and used a longer adjustment bolt.
I jacked up the passenger slide and removed the hat piece they fabricated and rewelded it properly so it wouldn't snap again.
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Old 08-20-2022, 11:52 AM   #10
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Nice work

Always good to make things better than original

Greg
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Old 08-26-2022, 06:56 AM   #11
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Morning,
In my 2006 Intrigue, my HWH components are only adjustable for tilt, to help in sealing the slide to the body of the coach. It does not adjust any other way. My slide, when extended, drops to the main floor level. This done by UHMW plastic box guides. These wear over time and can be shimmed or replaced depending on wear. HWH carries these guides. So, if you have this configuration and your coach graphics do not align, you may want to look into this.

The process:
1. Measure paint gap, slide to coach to determine shim thickness.
2. Level, extend slide 1/2 to 3/4.
3. Dump air and shut down.
4. Using a floor jack, 4X4 post and a 2/4 "T", raise the slide corner enough to reach the guide. It doesn't take much.
5. use 3/8" socket remove lag bolts and part.
6. Shim or replace.
7. Reverse order.

I have not done this yet. I will in the next 4 weeks. I'll take pics and post.

Credit goes to Doug at Premier RV for the process and Randy at HWH for the information on their components.

Bill.
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Old 11-21-2022, 08:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubilee 45 View Post
Morning,
In my 2006 Intrigue, my HWH components are only adjustable for tilt, to help in sealing the slide to the body of the coach. It does not adjust any other way. My slide, when extended, drops to the main floor level. This done by UHMW plastic box guides. These wear over time and can be shimmed or replaced depending on wear. HWH carries these guides. So, if you have this configuration and your coach graphics do not align, you may want to look into this.

The process:
1. Measure paint gap, slide to coach to determine shim thickness.
2. Level, extend slide 1/2 to 3/4.
3. Dump air and shut down.
4. Using a floor jack, 4X4 post and a 2/4 "T", raise the slide corner enough to reach the guide. It doesn't take much.
5. use 3/8" socket remove lag bolts and part.
6. Shim or replace.
7. Reverse order.

I have not done this yet. I will in the next 4 weeks. I'll take pics and post.

Credit goes to Doug at Premier RV for the process and Randy at HWH for the information on their components.

Bill.
Bill,

Where you able to obtain the nylon glide blocks from HWH (or CC)? I was unable to as HWH is back ordered on these specific items and was told that there is currently no ETA on when they will have more built. This posed a bit of a problem for me since I had to do some slide repair on my large front driver slide (on my floorplan it contains the galley). So, I decided to remove my old nylon glide block and design/fabricate my own. It took awhile to be built, but I received the new glide blocks this past week and installed them. The fit perfect! Also, during my installation I did find that (prior to me owning this rig) that one side of my slide had shims added to level it out.

Anyway, if anyone runs into problems getting new nylon blocks, let me know as I might be able to help? Again, this glide block is only for CC coaches that have hydraulic USO (with metal chain) mechanisms that sit flush to the floor when extended.

Chad
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Old 11-21-2022, 01:53 PM   #13
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Chad, I attempted to follow the instructions. When I had the slide raised, I could not get a socket on the lag screw, not enough room. So, I did not connect with HWH yet.

My fall back is to see if Olstrom, OMC or Premier would do it once I solidify my travel plans.
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Old 11-21-2022, 02:37 PM   #14
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Bill - your instructions are mostly correct. The only change I did was on your step 2. After being level, I extended the slide fully. This will expose both lag screws for access, but you will then have to retract the slide back in about 3/4". This should still keep both lag screws exposed for you to access after you jack-up the slide a bit. The biggest learning curve for me was:

1. Realize that I needed to removed pressure in the slide's hydraulic cylinders before jacking it up or it would creep in and re-cover one of the lag screws. Note: I released the pressure by opening the release valves for room 1.

2. Keep a very close eye on how much open space I had at the top of the slide while I slowly raised it up. It helps to have a buddy at this point as one person can be inside trying to wiggling out the nylon glide block as the another is outside jacking up the slide and keeping tabs on the open space at the top.

Having someone else do the work is also a good option.

Best of luck!
Chad
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