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Old 05-03-2021, 07:21 AM   #1
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Stoneguard removal

Today I put in about 2 hours working on the stonegard on the front of my Intrigue. I watched the YouTube videos and ordered plastic razor blades and scrapers from Amazon. The scrapers leave a lot to be desired and may need to be replaced before the job is complete as they are already loosing the blade from time to time. I have been using my heat gun on low fan, medium heat to pre-heat the surface.

The videos say it takes about 8 hours to remove the shield, and that seems about right but I have not attempted to remove the adhesive yet. Thought I would remove all the shield before starting on the glue.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:56 AM   #2
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Wow looks like a labor of love!

What will you be implementing once you have it all removed and cleaned up?
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:39 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Diesel-Lover View Post
Wow looks like a labor of love!

What will you be implementing once you have it all removed and cleaned up?
I haven't decided yet. Previous owner had a custom Bra made for the coach to cover this ugliness up and to also protect the front end. I don't mind it so much but I am concerned that it would damage the paint if left on with no stonegard in place.

I will check into having the stonegard possibly replaced if advancements have been made so it does not become the mess I have now in a few years.

I don't think I want to run the coach with the front unprotected, rocks do take a toll after a while.
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:45 AM   #4
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I completed the jobs in about 25 hours, My tricks that worked was using non-marring scrapers and I kept a sheet of sand paper 340 grit handy and put on a flat surface to keep the tools sharp I used up a couple of sheets. I used a product called De-Solvit Contractors Solvent got it on Amazon. I done sections at a time taking the CRAP off and then usually two passes to remove the glue. I would do the same if I were you, why let the air and heat harden the glue. When I sprayed the liquid on I would massage it in with my hand , used less and worked faster. I used about half a gallon and about half of the large scraper. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:00 PM   #5
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I completed the jobs in about 25 hours, My tricks that worked was using non-marring scrapers and I kept a sheet of sand paper 340 grit handy and put on a flat surface to keep the tools sharp I used up a couple of sheets. I used a product called De-Solvit Contractors Solvent got it on Amazon. I done sections at a time taking the CRAP off and then usually two passes to remove the glue. I would do the same if I were you, why let the air and heat harden the glue. When I sprayed the liquid on I would massage it in with my hand , used less and worked faster. I used about half a gallon and about half of the large scraper. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tips. I have Goo Off that I have already purchased but the procedure is just as you suggested. Remove the film, then apply the remover to the adhesive and let it work for a minute or so. Then scrape the glue one section at a time. They advised not to get in a hurry (Patience is not my strong suit) so I will do my best to let it work. Heat defiantly makes a difference when removing the film. If the Goo Off doesn't seem to be working I will give the De-Sol-it a shot. It's readily available from Amazon.
I may also try to pick up one of those scrapers, The plastic razors do pretty good, but the holders aren't worth a darn.
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Old 05-04-2021, 06:14 AM   #6
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I tried the Goo Gone it worked, kind of, it still left deep seated glue that wouldn’t budge. The non marring tools came four different sizes was very helpful.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:38 AM   #7
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I tried the Goo Gone it worked, kind of, it still left deep seated glue that wouldn’t budge. The non marring tools came four different sizes was very helpful.
Did you pick them up at Northern tool or Harbor Freight? They used them in the video also. They look a little easier on the hands as well.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:47 AM   #8
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Anyone have the solid lexan piece on the front offset from the body by about one inch via screws and spacers?


I have seen some which were custom bent and awe-inspiring. The membrane for protection was put on top of the lexan or some clear plastic to protect it, and its tempting though making Swiss cheese of the front panel is daunting when it comes to your own rig, not as awe-inspiring!


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Old 05-04-2021, 09:38 AM   #9
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Yes. I removed our Lexan nose cover about 10 years ago.

Cleaning behind our version was nearly impossible and very inconvenient.

Glad it is gone.
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Old 05-04-2021, 09:56 AM   #10
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I didn't like it so it went to trash bin long time ago.
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Old 05-04-2021, 03:15 PM   #11
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I didn't like it so it went to trash bin long time ago.
I didn't realize they were such a pain. I though I would like to have one until reading the above comments about them.
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Old 05-04-2021, 05:00 PM   #12
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I didn't realize they were such a pain. I though I would like to have one until reading the above comments about them.
Yep! CC's intention was good until it failed, then it's our pain to get it off. Take time, drink a cold in between the sections, make the process enjoyable
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Old 05-04-2021, 05:14 PM   #13
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if you use a steamer machine (about a $99 at HF) the film will come off quite easily, you won't worry about lifting the paint and the job will generally go much quicker. I had a section of the film replaced when a tow company damaged it. The company that replaced it used the steamer and it was amazing how easily it came off. My coach was 11 years old at the time. Also, if you put a new film on, a simple wax and then 303 will keep it looking new and nice. Proper maintenance is the key to them.
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Old 05-04-2021, 05:54 PM   #14
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if you use a steamer machine (about a $99 at HF) the film will come off quite easily, you won't worry about lifting the paint and the job will generally go much quicker. I had a section of the film replaced when a tow company damaged it. The company that replaced it used the steamer and it was amazing how easily it came off. My coach was 11 years old at the time. Also, if you put a new film on, a simple wax and then 303 will keep it looking new and nice. Proper maintenance is the key to them.
Thanks for that info. I was looking at 3M replacement film earlier and I think I will be replacing it once I have it removed and the paint cleaned up and polished out nice. I was hoping someone knew if the newer material held up better. I really would not want to do this a second time.
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