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Old 05-06-2017, 10:45 PM   #1
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Suspension problem

Okay maybe I am missing something ? stoped to top off fuel when I left the station the ride was very stiff and almost undriveable every little bump was like a major pot hole. I stoped and took a look at all my tires no problem there. Drove a little farther pulled overe dumped air reset for travel mode same thing. Luckily I was close to home but it seems that the front bags are fully inflated . It will dump and level but as soon as you take off its like driving a rock crawler. I figure I have a air valve problem . Just checking if you Guys have any ideas?
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:41 AM   #2
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Agree that it sounds like your ride height valve is bad, or just loosened and fell out of adjustment. Doesn't take much to raise the coach an inch or two.
On my 02, u-bolts attach the adjustment bracket onto the sway bar. Swinging the bracket towards the front of the coach raises it, and to the rear lowers it.
Do not attempt this unless you have ramps to drive up on first. I use 8" blocks.
Not sure what the measurements are on your 06. The front on my 02 Intrigue is 17 3/4" from the center of the top shock mounting bolt to the center of the bottom one.
Adjusting ride height is a very simple process, but should be done with caution.
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:35 PM   #3
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Thanks bneukam I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow not something I have time to tackle. I am surprised no one has had this same issue.
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:30 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by macthick View Post
Thanks bneukam I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow not something I have time to tackle. I am surprised no one has had this same issue.


Have them also throughly inspect the sway bar center, and end link bushings. As the ride height valve is attached to the sway bar.
Do you know the correct ride height settings, as most shops do not have these for our chassis.
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:43 PM   #5
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No i dont but they aligned it for me they called CC for the specs on alignment so ill have em check the rid hight . Only had this unit a few months i had it aligned front shocks tranny serviced just for my comfort. Noticed it leaning they replaced a leveling valve. So i dont know how many valves it has but im going to change em all if it is a valve causing my current situation. One less worry!
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:50 PM   #6
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Ok, there are three total. 1 in front that controls only the front to back movement. 2 in the rear that controls front to back, and side to side movement.
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:00 PM   #7
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Ill have them recheck sway bar and bushings thanks for your help. Aggravating but very thankful it didnt happen on road!
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:51 PM   #8
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All the riding on wood wheels with solid axle wagon feel!! (Admit I do not know what that feels like, but it is how I described the problem that we had with the shop....) And yes, on our 04 Allure, it was the front height valve having a problem...

Hope that is all it is for you too.

Please let us know what you find out! And best of luck,
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:06 AM   #9
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That Describes it pretty well.
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:31 AM   #10
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If you are mechanically savvy it's not a big job to adjust / replace ride height valves. I have replaced all three of mine and adjusted them as well. The issue you may have is the rubber connector on the rod. This connector is on both ends of the rod and will flex when the coach is lowered onto the rubber snubbers. This is because the coach can reduce the min distance between the frame connection and the valve connection that is shorted than the rod length. If it wasn't there then you would be bending the valve lever when lowering the coach by dumping all air.

To change the valve you need to put suitable blocks of wood or approved jack stands under the frame and dump the air. (I only jacked up one end at a time. Did the front first then the back). Once the air is out and the frame is settled remove the air lines, mounting bolts and adjusting rod. Install the new valve, make all connections and adjust for proper height. You can find that in the big book supplied by CC. If not I can get you mine but not sure if my '99 Allure is the same as yours. You have IFS and mine is a solid front axle.

I also changed out the rod. I made my own style that I can adjust by using a "turnbuckle" on the shaft. Has worked well for the past 10 years.

Hope this helps and good luck.
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:29 PM   #11
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From Bill's post:

"To change the valve you need to put suitable blocks of wood or approved jack stands under the frame and dump the air."

Just a shout out thanks for putting that most important part of the process into your post. It always amazes me that people will crawl under to work under a coach with air bags, without taking proper safety precautions. All it takes is one simple mistake to have the air dump out...

I'm somewhat lucky where we park our rig at our vacation home. I use blocks to back up over a curb. And experimented leaving first the front over hanging the street, and dumping, and then testing if all of me (Yep, including my belly!) could fit under. I could... So I can back in and then get up and work under the generator (Non slide on the 04 Allure.). Inspect chassis components and cabling. I can also then pull the coach forward with the front wheels about 5' into the street (This is a side street, wide, with very little traffic. Put cones out, and plenty of room for cars to get around me if needed. The DW usually hangs with me while doing this, and smiles to wave people by - if/when needed.). I can then get under the rear half of the coach, to inspect cables, hoses all the way back to the Drive wheel area. Then reverse this order, pulling into parking area nose first, with the tag just up to the top of the curb, with great access to the back part and engine area, for my yearly crawl and flashlight inspect.

This yearly inspect and crawl under the coach has on two occasions, found areas where I had thought I had done a good job of adding extra cushion/insulation protection wraps around hoses/metal tubing/electrical harnesses that could chafe agains mental frames. (I now zip tie vs tape everything in place, and that seems to hold up well.)

I did not have jacks strong enough for this job, or tire ramps either, and found this takes pretty good care of my needs.

And for those of you who have never double checked all of your hoses/metal tubing/harnesses for wear contact chafing points - suggest you do so. (Or pay a shop an hours with of shop rates for a careful inspection and added protection by a diligent tech!). A feel CC owner lost their coach and toad on James Dean Highway several years ago, when I believe they concluded it was a hydraulic line chaffed a hole, spitting up onto the hot exhaust parts and started a fire.

Worth the extra insurance and effort for any coach to do this.

$.02 and keep the change from Smitty!!!
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:52 AM   #12
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So it seems that I am experiencing some of the same issues here also. I had a leveling valve go bad and they shop couldn't get it right. Seems I also have a HWH solenoid valve sticking. So I am working on adjusting the rear ride height. Last two days after work I have been adjusting, dropping the coach and checking. Takes a little time as I am picky? I have it to within a half inch of each other in the rear and I can detect the lean at a half an inch. Also, truck shop replaced leveling valve with another brand, not the original valve. I have ordered two new leveling valves of original type to replace the valve they added if I can't get it right. Also thanks Smitty. I also need to check and increase the front height. My manual wasn't very informative on how to adjust this. I also may replace my sway bar bushings and end links as our coach was leaning a bit and stressed these rubber bushings. I am including two attachments which show info on our coaches suspensions. I also included the hwh 500 manual which has been helpful to me.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf XLAK39701.pdf (1.16 MB, 92 views)
File Type: pdf RideHeight.pdf (2.83 MB, 93 views)
File Type: pdf HWH 500 troubleshooting mauual.pdf (435.5 KB, 56 views)
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:59 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by funjnt View Post
So it seems that I am experiencing some of the same issues here also. I had a leveling valve go bad and they shop couldn't get it right. Seems I also have a HWH solenoid valve sticking. So I am working on adjusting the rear ride height. Last two days after work I have been adjusting, dropping the coach and checking. Takes a little time as I am picky? I have it to within a half inch of each other in the rear and I can detect the lean at a half an inch. Also, truck shop replaced leveling valve with another brand, not the original valve. I have ordered two new leveling valves of original type to replace the valve they added if I can't get it right. Also thanks Smitty. I also need to check and increase the front height. My manual wasn't very informative on how to adjust this. I also may replace my sway bar bushings and end links as our coach was leaning a bit and stressed these rubber bushings. I am including two attachments which show info on our coaches suspensions. I also included the hwh 500 manual which has been helpful to me.


Funjnt,
Measuring for side to side lean should be done in the front, not the rear. It's most important to have the front level. The rear measurements may not be the same on both sides, and that's ok.
Always start by measuring the front, if one side is higher than the other, go to the rear and adjust up or down on the side that needs to go up or down depending on your front measurements. Once your front is level then you can use the front valve to adjust the height.
Then once you get the front level check your rear to see if they are within specs, and it's ok if both sides don't come out the same. If you need to adjust the rear, after doing so, you need to start with the front all over again.
Hope all of that made sense.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:39 AM   #14
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From bneukam post:

Measuring for side to side lean should be done in the front, not the rear. It's most important to have the front level. The rear measurements may not be the same on both sides, and that's ok.

He is spot on with this info. I will also add you need to do this on level ground and not a hill. I have worked on my suspension over the years and from experience and talking with others that have more knowledge than I on this, and they are not hard to find, it is a simple task if you do it the right way. It doesn't take much movement of the valve to make a large change in the suspension height. That is one of the reasons I went to my turnbuckle design instead of moving the valve. The adjustment is much easier. But saying all of this once you get the RHV's adjusted they will usually last for many years.

And as Smitty so eloquently stated while under the coach it gives you a chance to look things over and reflect on the workings of the "Worlds Finest Motorcoach"
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