Swapping out my inverter this week.

[UniqueName]

I am doing an "in kind" swap of my modified sine wave inverter (rv1212) for a sine wave sw1212 this week. It appears that the wiring will all reach the new connections and such.


My safety plan includes disconnecting all power sources, DC and AC. For the AC, it's pull the shore power plug. For the DC, it's shut down the old inverter and then disconnect all the battery ground wires and disconnect the solar leads as well. I am planning on doing so for the starting battery as well as the coach batteries and then covering them all with a plywood sheet while I work in the compartment above.


Will I encounter any special issues with chassis components when powering it all back up? The starting battery goes first, I suppose. I realize there are startup procedures and settings for the inverter, those are documented in the manuals.



2004 Allure, 33ft.

[twinboat]

There are typically no special steps to powering back up. One battery or the other.

Take A look at your inverter install instructions. Some recommend connecting the positive cable last. You can do that by connecting everything and connecting the fuse last.

Keep in mind that the inverter cable will spark when connecting it. That's normal.

[swduns]

I would check the manufacturers literature and ensure that the existing remote panel will work with the new unit.

if you have lithium or AGM batteries you may have to tell the inverter through the remote panel

my thoughts

[CountryFit]

OP, What you described sounds good. I replaced an MSW inverter with a PSW Magnum 2812 in 2015, don't remember any special procedures to follow but just common cautions in handling electrical equipment/components.
I always disconnect positive first and connect positive the last although some may advocate the sequence other way around on vehicles.
Our original data cable for remote works for the new one, just plug n play.

[Smitty77]

Going from the Freedom 458 to the MS2812, the installer made a conversion of the sending RJ45 Jack wiring to match what was needed for the Magnum ME ARC 50 Remote Panel. You might call Magnum Tech Support, and see if they know of a plug and play harness conversion. And or, which color wires need to be spliced into and swapped around. Sure much easier to do this from the sending, or receiving, end - then running full new wiring.

Good luck on your swap out!
Smitty

[UniqueName]

Thanks all. Also in the project is the replacement of the so-called "salesman relay" with a Blue Sea 7700 latching relay. The kit came with the required momentary button system. Another parasitic draw to be eliminated....

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by UniqueName

Thanks all. Also in the project is the replacement of the so-called "salesman relay" with a Blue Sea 7700 latching relay. The kit came with the required momentary button system. Another parasitic draw to be eliminated....

The so called " salesman " switch IS a latching relay. Its actually a battery disconnect relay.

If your changing the " Isolation relay ", a contionues duty solenoid, then the Blue Sea unit can be used as a replacement.

Here is a layout discribing the actual names of the relays, ( solenoids ).

[UniqueName]

Twinboat:
My wiring is nothing like what you posted. It appears that the schematic you posted is for a unit with an optional remote panel. No worry though, I found my prints and, although not perfectly complete, they are close enough. I learned along ago never to completely trust prints, so I am tracing it all out. In my coach, a 2004 Allure 33', the coach relay is a continuously powered relay.

[UniqueName]

Here are some photos for you. I built an attachment to my motorcycle lift so that, working alone, I could safely remove and install the heavy inverters. It clips onto the motorcycle lift and can be easily set aside when not needed. The extended end needs to rest on the shelf where the inverter sits for support. Then, after the wiring was all disconnected, the inverter slid right out.


One problem encountered was that the AC wiring connections were unreachable and were installed with zero slack. After hours crawling around looking for something to disconnect to create some slack, I just said to self: F*&k it and disconnected it with a cable cutter. I'm going to abandon those wires and run new circuits. The new inverter is slightly larger, so it will bolt down differently.

[rampage42]

Looks like you have under control, love the great use of the motorcycle jack! Good idea to replace the 120 circuits, I hate it when one thing turns into four other things.

[UniqueName]

Sorry, I have been derelict in keeping this up to date. As with most projects, little issues come up that needed addressing. All issues except for the latching relay were worked out and it's running great. Below are issues encountered and the corresponding solutions:

1. AC wires had to be cut short in order to extract the old unit. Solution: Run liquidtite flexible conduit in the battery compartment and flexible metal conduit in the coach to a splice box. Pull 4 #10 single conductors and 1 #8 bare ground wire, splice into the old conductors near the breaker panel.
2. New unit's mounting flanges are too wide to fit into the existing enclosure. Solution: Wrap the inverter in a towel, take a cut-off wheel and trim to fit where needed.
3. Enclosure not quite deep enough for the DC connections. Connections are now on the side instead of the end as before. Solution: Weld up and extension to the enclosure using 3/4" square tube.
4. Solar equipment was previously mounted on the side of the Inverter enclosure (awkward). Solution: Relocate to a new panel on the sidewall.
5. Comm wire for the System Control Panel was "crossover" instead of "straight". Solution: Ordered up a new RJ21 connector, re-terminate one end to match up what Xantrex needed. Luckily, I have the crimping tool on hand.
6. Latching relay. Not enough conductors running up front to install the new control switch. Solution: Defer. Still searching for some wires to use. It can wait.