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fzandome · 12-31-2022, 01:36 PM

I'm having a situation with my front slide, and HWH wants me to switch six hydraulics lines around on the synchronize cylinder to see if the problem goes to the other side of my front slide. If it does, the problem is in the synchronize cylinder and a rebuild or, more likely, a new cylinder will be required. $$$$ (One side of the slide does not go all the way out and stops 3 inches short.)

The question is how do you remove the quick disconnects. HWH said they are not really a quick disconnect per se, they were threaded, and you turn them to left to remove. When I took the pressure off the system, the disconnects became loose and could be turning by hand in both directions. I tried pushing in and out while turning, and that was a NO GO. If I tried to turn the disconnects a complete turn, the line twisted. I do not want to remove the lines off the disconnects, as that will introduce air into the system. It can't be this hard. Hmmm

Anybody have a clue.

wolfe10 · 12-31-2022, 01:48 PM

Have you verified that these ARE HWH lines?

If so, their PN will be on both ends of the hoses.

fzandome · 01-01-2023, 04:39 AM

Yes, all OEM.

Skykingrob · 01-10-2023, 02:57 PM

Hello, had something similar this summer with my 06 Magna. Not really disconnects like you think. Watched the HWH tech disconnect my hoses. He used a tool he said he got at OReillys that disconnects auto air conditioning lines. It’s plastic surround wedges which slip into the joint and hold back retainer tabs to allow joint to separate. Yours may be different since you have a different model coach.
Rob
2006 Magna
Texas

fzandome · 01-11-2023, 12:14 AM

I had some time to work on these since I originally posted.

These are not really quick disconnects, in the true sense of the word. To take these off the Synchronize cylinder, you must put two wrenches behind the large outer assembly of the “quick disconnect” and unscrew the unit from the back. That will leave you with two parts, one on the cylinder and one on the hose. They have ball valves in them to stop leakage. Make sure you drop pressure to zero before removing the lines. When you do, the larger outer assembly can be spun around at will. You work behind this loose part.

If you remove the top four line on the back pressure valve, as I was required to do, be ready for an interesting situation. (There are seven lines going into that unit) They only used the front part of the “quick disconnect”. The front part of the QD (the loose part) screwed right into the valve assembly. Once removed, there is no ball assembly on the back pressure valve to stop fluid lose. Again, you use two wrenches to take them off, but when you do, the other part of the QD assembly is not there as on the Syn Cyl.

I could not get one of the disconnect off the back pressure valve. The person at the factory must have had a big bowl of Wheaties that day or there's maybe some dissimilar metal corrosion as the back pressure valve appears to be aluminum or stainless steel. (I did not test with a magnet to verify) After a lot of grunting and rounding the lands on the disconnect, I decided to swap the lines instead of removing the QDs. And even those were on extremely tight.

(An open end wrench is the only thing you can use on these. Due to the QDs thick shank design, a Flare nut wrench would not work.)

I don't know what impact all this air getting into the back pressure valve will have, and I hope I don't have to bleed the system again. If you have to do that, you are in for a treat, as you have to remove the upper wood facade and lower kick boards.

PS, If you ever do this job, make sure you mark the lines. I tried cheap "paper tags on a string" but they just got in the way, tore off, and got dirty easy. I found using a white permanent marker and marking the line itself after a good cleaning was the better idea.

I hope this help somebody in the future.