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Old 08-05-2019, 10:42 PM   #1
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Waste Valve Replacement - What's the magic?

Gent with a 2003 Intrigue is attempting to replace both of the dump valves.

Had them out, and the two us with some other supervisor's, failed at getting the valves back in with out losing the rubber seals.

The Y pipe that slips in between the valves, and has the right angle tail going to the right to attach the hose to. Is such a tight fit, we could not get it to slide into place with the new valves. Multiple combinations of different attempts, but getting the seals to stay in place while trying to literally pry the Y pipe back into position and not lose the rubber seals in the process stumped us. (We used RTV Seal to attempt to hold the seals in place a bit more. Tried on the male sidle lip, as the directions state. No cigar. Tried it in the female side of the blades themselves. No cigar. Tried combinations, and yeah - nope.

The pipe fittings coming into the bay from the tanks, have hose clamps on them. But loosening them did not seem to help with any movement of that pipe, to allow a bit easier access. Are they suppose to move a bit, once the hose clamp is loosen, to provide the 1/4" or less extra space needed to slide things smoothly back in.

Should we focus on one side blade being attached first, and then try to persuade the other blade to go in?

We used the mentioned RTV to try and hold the seals in position while leveraging with a large screw drive to separate the fittings enough to get the last blade in place. Sprayed lithium grease to help slide things in, no luck.

Any pearls of wisdom would be appreciated... The owner is going to remove everything again in the AM (We got it in, but suspect we either tore, or have a misplaced seal, as he said has to come out...

TIA for any input,
Smitty

PS: His access thru the sewer/water basement bay's access hole is probably 20% larger then the one I have on our Allure... But to say it was tight working quarters is a understatement. Removing the full water basements sub panel, to provide more access, looks like another kind of PITA... And if the pipes going into the Grey/Black tank don't move anyways - other then more room to move a wrench, what purpose would it serve?
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:22 AM   #2
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When I replaced my 2 valves I needed to trim a little off the tank stub pipes to gain a little more room. There was no way I could get the valves installed otherwise as it was way too tight.
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:31 AM   #3
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Assemble the two valves and the "y". Get a small hydraulic jack and a couple of pieces of 1/2" thick wood 6x4. Use the wood to protect the tanks and put the jack horizontal, pushing the wood pieces up against the tanks. You can spread the tanks apart enough to get the valves in between the tanks. Slowly release the jack pressure so that you can align the bolts up with the holes.


I just removed the small plate to get to the valves. Bought my jack at some tool outfit. It is something like a 2 ton jack



After I figured this out, it took less than 20 minutes to replace both valves
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:56 AM   #4
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Smitty, Don has the likely answer. I replaced both of the valves on the Allure when I first got the coach. Had same problem.


I was able to move the tanks apart just enough to get the valve assembly in without trashing the gaskets. I just used some wood and wedged it between the tanks.



It's a crappy job at any rate
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Old 08-06-2019, 08:49 AM   #5
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I had to trim one side of the outlet from the tank like Roy1 did. The flanged fittings were siliconed into the outlets from the tank and then secured with the hose clamps. I only had to trim off about 1/4" to give me enough room to make the connections.
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Old 08-06-2019, 09:02 AM   #6
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I also used wood blocking and a jack to spread the tanks.

I removed the wet bay panel to provide additional working room. Plus I got to look at all the cool stuff behind the panel, lol. Wet bay heater control, black tank yellow and red level sensors, etc.

Brian
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Old 08-06-2019, 10:33 AM   #7
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Thanks gang...

We'll ask around the park to see if someone has a small jack to do the spread, if not, the cutting the lip off of one side would work, as we do have the RTV Sealant.

Appreciate it - I figured we were just not looking at it correctly!

Smitty
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Old 08-06-2019, 05:07 PM   #8
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And thank you Brian Glenn for posting those great pictures. One of my Thetford toilet sensors has been acting up and I may have to go in there.
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Old 08-06-2019, 08:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianGlenn View Post
I also used wood blocking and a jack to spread the tanks.

I removed the wet bay panel to provide additional working room. Plus I got to look at all the cool stuff behind the panel, lol. Wet bay heater control, black tank yellow and red level sensors, etc.

Brian

Brian, when I did mine, I remember how heavy that stainless panel was getting it back in place. It did give me an opportunity to check everything over in that space.
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Old 08-07-2019, 09:44 AM   #10
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I have a easy way to replace will have to tell not sure I can explain well enough by writing instruction. If interested send phone # and I will give instruction.
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