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dogpaddle · 05-15-2023, 08:47 PM

2006 Country coach affinity.
The water pump stopped working a couple of days ago, I checked the house fuses #2 and found the fuse to be good, it was late so I hooked up a water hose for water to the coach. That night as we were doing dishes we could hear the water pump come on while we had the faucet on. I checked the silverleaf and it showed pump on.. I turned it off and ran the faucet and it came on. So it seemed to be working again. Next morning at the wet bay I found the pump to be working correctly , the override switch worked correctly in the wet bay, so I disconnected the incoming water. All was well for about 1 hour , then again no water. Re checked fuses they were still good. So I ordered a new pump and should get it in a couple of days. But not so fast, I decided I should check the incoming 12V to the pump and I found there is no voltage at the connector to the pump.. I checked for voltage while turning the pump off and on via silverleaf or override switches in wet bay and in bathroom. still nothing.
I went to the drivers power cabinet bay and found the relay #2 labeled water pump. No voltage at any of the terminals.
I am at a loss as to where to look next.
We have only owned this coach for 2 months, so I am not sure if maybe I am missing something.
FYI we are on shore power and the house 12V all seems to work.
I do not believe we have the intellitec system of switches in this coach but I am not sure.

Can anyone help me? maybe a similar problem in the past? Any ideas?
My thought is it must be a broken wire but I have no idea on where to look or how to find it?
Help please
Thanks in advance

rarebear.nm · 05-15-2023, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogpaddle

2006 Country coach affinity.
The water pump stopped working a couple of days ago, I checked the house fuses #2 and found the fuse to be good, it was late so I hooked up a water hose for water to the coach. That night as we were doing dishes we could hear the water pump come on while we had the faucet on. I checked the silverleaf and it showed pump on.. I turned it off and ran the faucet and it came on. So it seemed to be working again. Next morning at the wet bay I found the pump to be working correctly , the override switch worked correctly in the wet bay, so I disconnected the incoming water. All was well for about 1 hour , then again no water. Re checked fuses they were still good. So I ordered a new pump and should get it in a couple of days. But not so fast, I decided I should check the incoming 12V to the pump and I found there is no voltage at the connector to the pump.. I checked for voltage while turning the pump off and on via silverleaf or override switches in wet bay and in bathroom. still nothing.
I went to the drivers power cabinet bay and found the relay #2 labeled water pump. No voltage at any of the terminals.
I am at a loss as to where to look next.
We have only owned this coach for 2 months, so I am not sure if maybe I am missing something.
FYI we are on shore power and the house 12V all seems to work.
I do not believe we have the intellitec system of switches in this coach but I am not sure.

Can anyone help me? maybe a similar problem in the past? Any ideas?
My thought is it must be a broken wire but I have no idea on where to look or how to find it?
Help please
Thanks in advance

Wires seldom break. But connectors on wire ends do go bad. Bad ground connections are a common issue. Frequently, switches operate a latching relay that in turn operates the pump. Relays also go bad. There are several types of these relays and their wiring will vary a little. Basically there two leads that operate a coil. The switches operate this coil. Then there is a hot lead that gets turned on/off and a forth lead that goes to the pump. These leads may be spade connectors or short wires.

Standard relays will draw power on the coil the entire time it is switched on. While latching relays only draw power for the coil for a few moments when switched on or off. Voltage applied to the coil of latching relay causes it flip to the opposite state it was last in.

Another issue that comes up is voltage tests good, but the device will not work. This has stumped folks many times. Think of it this way. A very thin wire will test the same as a large gauge wire for a voltage test. But the thin wire can not carry enough amps to operate the device. This can happen when a connector only has a few wire strands making contact. I ran into this exact problem with a factory crimp going to the coil of a relay was never crimped. Only reason it worked was heat shrink kept the connection together. When tested with a auto turn signal light bulb the bulb had only a faint glow. Not enough amps. I redid the crimp and problem solved.

Skypalace · 05-15-2023, 11:50 PM

How many water pump switches do you have? And are you turning any of them on or off during the events you mention?

I have 3 in my Lexa - one at side outer water intake bay, one in bathroom, and one at front switch panel. All are momentary contact and each have a LED which is lit green when the pump is on, so any of them can turn the pump on or off.

I assume they are all momentary inputs to a latching relay. I think there may be a small board in the front switchbay controlling them but I could be wrong.

I have a 4th in my (added) Silverleaf but I don’t use it, as it parallels the set of others, so if I turn it on at Silverleaf, I can’t turn it off with the other switches.

I did replace my pump a few years back, but always had 12v at the pump when in. Mine has an inline fuse on the 12v positive red wire attached to the pump, check it also, could be bad connection.

dmtaylor · 05-16-2023, 08:36 AM

I had the same problem in my 2006 affinity. the fuse in the bathroom fuse pannel,next to the washer & dryer was good but the wire was loose that supplied the power to the pump I took the panel off and tightened the wire. the power was not going thru the fuse

dogpaddle · 05-17-2023, 07:22 AM

So I found the issue, as David pointed out, the problem was the Bussman fuse panels. I pulled them off and found 4 wires that were burnt. The crimps were bad and therefore bad connections. Now my mood lights, water pump, work, living room lights are brighter. I have put them on the spares in the molex connector.
My only issue is how I can remove the connectors from the bussman fuse block? I have ordered a multi set of removal tools, and i will try to see which ones will fit the tangs that I cannot see.

Again, Thanks for the help to all of you
Steve

2006 Affinity Alexander Valley

rarebear.nm · 05-17-2023, 08:11 AM

Yep as I pointed out in post 2 connectors go bad. Typically issue is they were never tight enough in the first place.

I just had a car in a RV shop for a new base plate and wiring harness install. Normally I would have do this but still recovery from shoulder replacement. When I was inspecting some of the wiring they had done two "crimps" fell apart by touching them, three more were loose. After a "discussion about wiring 101" they redid the electrical and got it right. Point is even certified RV techs with 17 years experience may not always get it right.

Glad to hear you got the problem identified.

Foxhallr · 05-24-2023, 03:56 AM

Are you up and running again? Had same issue-ordered tool and connectors and fixed it. Let me know if i can help.

dogpaddle · 05-24-2023, 07:57 AM

Yes all working now. I ordered a removal set from amazon came with a myriad of small tools to remove connectors from the plugs. got it all done
Thanks for everyones suggestions