Wax valve/fan controller

[James Barone]

After reading everything on the forum about the wax valve conversion and talking to Source Eng. I am still confused about a few issues. My wife and I fulltime in a 2001 CC Affinity (6004) with a C12 Cat. We are currently work camping in Albuquerque and are planning to go to our next assignment in Virginia Beach in 4 weeks. In anticipation of this trip I have a few questions re the wax valve conversion...1) how does one know if the Danforth Sauer controller has failed? About the conversion..I have a bung fitting just below the top radiator hose that is very assessable and was told by Source Eng. that this was the perfect place to locate the wax valve? This does away with the need to weld any brackets? The current controller has two hydraulic lines connected to it...is this where the new hydraulic lines, included in the Source Eng. kit, connect to? I’m trying to see if this is a diys project... I know there are lots of folks on the forum that have been through this conversion and I would appreciate any advice. Last but not least, are there any less expensive options out there as the Source Eng. kit is pretty expensive. Thanks, Jim Barone

[Smitty77]

With a cold engine, stand back by the side radiator and have someone start the coach with no OTR AC on. The fan should barely turn. If it is blowing hard, good indication the FCU has gone South. If you're not sure if it's blowing hard/high or not. Then stop the engine, and remove the FCU fan's fuse from below the driver seats fuse box. Restart, and this should default the fan to hard/high speed so you can compare. Or, a call to the company and they can walk you thru how to test it too.

No experience on the CAT install, so sorry no input!

Kevin Waite, had had a Wax Valve Kit available for awhile. You might check with him.

For what it's worth, I'm pleased with the performance of the SE Wax Valve on our ISL. Price wise, it was a bit more then one new FCU replacement. And many that have coaches with these FCU's - were on their third replacement unit. So, this is why I looked at it as both cost effective, as well as KISS tech.

Opinions will vary on this. And no question the FCU, especially some rigs, is much more sophisticated at controlling fan speeds then the Wax Valve. My OTR AC is pretty straight forward on/off in one Driver's only zone, and a single compressor - so I felt the 'sophistication' of the FCU was not required. Your rig is perhaps a tad bit more technically challenging then my 04 Allure!

Best to you,
Smitty

[John Jones]

I bought mine directly from Source. (Cheapest place to buy) I also had a bung on my radiator, I drained about 4 gallons of antifreeze, unscrewed the plug in the radiator, installed the wax valve. I unhooked the two hoses from the sauer-danfoss unit and screwed them into my wax valve. Zip ties the hoses in place, refilled the antifreeze and I was done.

This is an easy project and you can certainly do it yourself.

Call Jim at Source and talk to him.

[TR4]

Here’s a good thread on the wax valve;
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/side...nt-148331.html

Here’s some more reading on how the thermo valve works;
https://www.centralstatesbus.com/200...s/a3hydfan.pdf

I’m going to put together a DIY wax valve conversion thread when I get all the parts I need. The electronic controller uses coolant temperature, air intake temperature and a/c head pressure to regulate fan speed. The wax valve only uses coolant temperature to regulate fan speed. I’ve moved my a/c condenser up to the front along with the Dyer. I then installed electric fans on the condenser. I did this in anticipation of installing the wax thermo valve. Ive always wondered how to do this, and then found a thread by Old Scout who had done this on his Alpine coach. On the Source kit, they use a restrictor to have the fan run at a minimum speed to address the a/c issue.

Bill

[Roy1]

I have a question. Heading home from Arizona had the sensor wire at the thermostat unplugged because the fan didn't run coming down. On the trip home the temperature was around 180 to 190 and the dash a/c was on for 6 hours. OSA temp dropped to 60 so turned air off and the engine temp increased to 200 to 220 with slight incline for the next 3 hours stopped in lone pine ca and checked the fan and it was running at idle. Continued to bishop for the night as it was late. I needed to climb 4 mountain passes on ca 395 the next am at 8,000 ft each . I unplugged the main power to the danfos module hoping it would help lower the temp and ran the engine at 2200 rpm hoping to make it. It ran up the 6-7 degree passes under 190 ? Why does this sound like a bad danfos module ? I can’t believe it ran hotter on almost level ground that was 60 degrees rather then 40 degrees. Could the danfos be failing and not allowing the fan to reach max rpm? I could only get the fan to run by pulling the sensor wire or removing power to the module. Will a wax valve kit solve my problem or ? Is it possible the fan didn’t go to full rpm with just the sensor wire unplugged?

[2 Stroker]

When I first got my coach, I could hear my fan coming on and could see it in my Silverleaf. But over time my coolant temp would get 210 before it would come on plus I could not hear it, so I had the wax valve installed at Source. Now it comes on at 205 and off 175 and I can hear it, the down side I use more fuel.
2 stroker

[TR4]

Originally Posted by Roy1

I have a question. Heading home from Arizona had the sensor wire at the thermostat unplugged because the fan didn't run coming down. On the trip home the temperature was around 180 to 190 and the dash a/c was on for 6 hours. OSA temp dropped to 60 so turned air off and the engine temp increased to 200 to 220 with slight incline for the next 3 hours stopped in lone pine ca and checked the fan and it was running at idle. Continued to bishop for the night as it was late. I needed to climb 4 mountain passes on ca 395 the next am at 8,000 ft each . I unplugged the main power to the danfos module hoping it would help lower the temp and ran the engine at 2200 rpm hoping to make it. It ran up the 6-7 degree passes under 190 ? Why does this sound like a bad danfos module ? I can’t believe it ran hotter on almost level ground that was 60 degrees rather then 40 degrees. Could the danfos be failing and not allowing the fan to reach max rpm? I could only get the fan to run by pulling the sensor wire or removing power to the module. Will a wax valve kit solve my problem or ? Is it possible the fan didn’t go to full rpm with just the sensor wire unplugged?

Roy1,
Sounds like either the fan controller, coolant temperature sensor or bad wiring. When you unplugged the controller, the fan went to high, keeping your temperature down. The downside is more fuel consumption. A lot of members here have done the wax thermo valve conversion.

Bill

[Smitty77]

Just a follow up comment. When sharing temperature info, keep in mind that the specific engine, heck even sometimes down to smog control generation, can make a difference on temperatures.

For example, the CAT C9 usually runs a bit warmer then the Cummins ISL - and these are both sometimes found in the same coach. Like the Allure.

So when reading about temperatures that are being shared, drill down to the specifics of the engine and even smog generation of engine, when comparing to your engines temperatures.

This is probably a 'Well of course post!' - but in case that is not obvious to some, just wanted to share this!

Best to all,
Smitty

[James Barone]

First of all thanks to everyone who chimed in on my original question. Yesterday I installed the wax valve kit from Source Eng. I was fortunate because i had bund in the radiator right below the top hose. Difficult to get the plug out... had to use a heat gun. The valve then just screwed into the radiator but I had to shorten an 11/2 open end to tighten the valve. The hydraulic lines installed easily and I started it up to check for leaks and valve function. Upon a cold start the fan turned but slowly. As the engine warmed the fan speed increased. I discussed these results with Scott, Source Eng. owner and he thought everything seemed to be correct. Again, thank you for all of your help. Jim Barone work camping in Albuquerque & leaving for Virginia Beach in 4 weeks... 2001 CC Affinity (6004) C12 Cat.

[Roy1]

In case anyone is interested I put my follow up on the class a Motorhome forum by mistake under wax valve followup sorry.

[BrianGlenn]

Originally Posted by Roy1

In case anyone is interested I put my follow up on the class a Motorhome forum by mistake under wax valve followup sorry.

Link to your thread for others to read.....

Wax Valve Update

Brian