Community Forums

John Jones · 06-01-2017, 09:04 PM

I have a 2000 36' Allure. My battery box supports have corroded and my battery tray is sagging. I talked to a welder and he thinks he can weld some stronger supports to beef it up.

When I posted this question earlier this year, someone mentioned that before you weld on your coach you should disconnect your??? Was it the inverter? Of course the batteries will be out, but what else should I disconnect so I don't have any damage?

Thanks!

steve11669 · 06-01-2017, 09:29 PM

I seem to remember reading about disconnecting the Allison control unit. I have not had to do this myself and don't know where that is.

dons2346 · 06-01-2017, 09:32 PM

If the negative lead is close to the spot where welding is going to happen, you don't need to disconnect anything.

If you don't trust that, then disconnect the ECM and the Allison brain.

ltcolmac17 · 06-02-2017, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Jones

I have a 2000 36' Allure. My battery box supports have corroded and my battery tray is sagging. I talked to a welder and he thinks he can weld some stronger supports to beef it up.

When I posted this question earlier this year, someone mentioned that before you weld on your coach you should disconnect your??? Was it the inverter? Of course the batteries will be out, but what else should I disconnect so I don't have any damage?

Thanks!

I had the the whole support structure under my battery bay rebuilt/welded last year on my '98 Allure due to rusting and I had the fabricator heed this warning and disconnect my trans unit as stated.

palehorse89 · 06-02-2017, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dons2346

If the negative lead is close to the spot where welding is going to happen, you don't need to disconnect anything.

If you don't trust that, then disconnect the ECM and the Allison brain.

Just clean, down to bare metal, as close to the welding job, for the ground clamp.......the welder is needing a good ground, and it will take/follow the path of least resistance.......that being the ground clamp that is installed on bare metal near the job. I have never unhooked anything over a lot of years when welding..........just made sure I had a good, clean, proper ground for the welder.

gary rv · 06-02-2017, 01:23 PM

Agree with Don. and Palehorse has it right regarding the grounding, but if you have any doubts and want to err on the side of safety (economy), disconnect all computers; ecm, Allison, HWH, hydronic heater, anti-loc brake...anything you can think of and/or access.

Personally, I would just disconnect my batteries, which you will have to do anyway, and set my ground lead as close to the work as possible (on prepared bare metal)...then, let 'er rip.

Rick

Skip426 · 06-02-2017, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ltcolmac17

I had the the whole support structure under my battery bay rebuilt/welded last year on my '98 Allure due to rusting and I had the fabricator heed this warning and disconnect my trans unit as stated.

Found the same decal loose in my Allison trans owners manual .
Working on the battery tray ; with an arc welder , may put you too close for comfort to the main engine/transmission ground cable connection to the frame.
Considering the $$$$ of engine & trans control modules, JMHO; disconnect them .

Jag73e · 06-03-2017, 09:44 AM

I need this done too. Any idea of the costs involved? Want to pay a fair price but I have no idea what to expect. Who's had it done?
Thanks

John Jones · 06-03-2017, 10:14 AM

Are there any other options other then welding? Can you make a new metal plate that would span more of the supports?

It would be great to have some kind of metal battery tray that would drop into place so I didn't have to weld.

wfalch · 06-03-2017, 05:43 PM

Well, I looked in my my bookmarks and I could not find what I was looking for. If you Goggle battery trays I believe you can find what you are looking for, it was related to a marine application. I think I posted on here, good luck. I will keep looking.

Burfman · 06-06-2017, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Jones

Are there any other options other then welding? Can you make a new metal plate that would span more of the supports?

It would be great to have some kind of metal battery tray that would drop into place so I didn't have to weld.

I have basically the same coach but a year older, '99. My batt tray is needing repair as well. I am going to use two "Uni-Strut" bars under the base frame of the original box. I looked the other day and the two end rails are in very good condition, no rusting at all. I'll span the box front to rear and bolt them thru to the existing frame rails.

Uni-Strut rails have various attachments you can buy with them such as spring nuts, 90, 45 degree angle brackets as well as straight brackets. All I believe I'll need is two rails about 41" long, 4 spring nuts and 4 -5/8" X 2 1/2" to 3" long grade 8 bolts.

I'll drill the holes up thru the frame, drop in the bolts and secure them to the spring nuts that hold the Uni-Strut bars. Should be quite simple and no welding needed.

The Unit-Strut bars are built in a "U" design so they are very strong and will support the batts. Also they only are about 1" thick so nothing will be hanging down far enough to catch anything.

I'll take pictures when I do this and try to post them for all to see.

Probably do this project next week.

John Jones · 06-06-2017, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burfman

I have basically the same coach but a year older, '99. My batt tray is needing repair as well. I am going to use two "Uni-Strut" bars under the base frame of the original box. I looked the other day and the two end rails are in very good condition, no rusting at all. I'll span the box front to rear and bolt them thru to the existing frame rails.

Uni-Strut rails have various attachments you can buy with them such as spring nuts, 90, 45 degree angle brackets as well as straight brackets. All I believe I'll need is two rails about 41" long, 4 spring nuts and 4 -5/8" X 2 1/2" to 3" long grade 8 bolts.

I'll drill the holes up thru the frame, drop in the bolts and secure them to the spring nuts that hold the Uni-Strut bars. Should be quite simple and no welding needed.

The Unit-Strut bars are built in a "U" design so they are very strong and will support the batts. Also they only are about 1" thick so nothing will be hanging down far enough to catch anything.

I'll take pictures when I do this and try to post them for all to see.

Probably do this project next week.

Thats a good idea! No, thats a great idea! I didn't think of this angle, I got to hung up on the welding aspect. I would love to see some pics, thanks!