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Old 11-18-2016, 10:43 AM   #15
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Wish I had raised mine leaving my driveway last time. Would have prevented some front end damage. Wasn't an issue with my last coach so I didn't make any adjustments for this one. Live and learn!
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Old 11-20-2016, 03:40 PM   #16
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Yes, I learned that I need to raise for entering or exiting my driveway but not before the Tow Drop Bar made a gouge in the driveway.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #17
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I have a question. Does anybody know how high the coach can be raised from its standard "ride height". 3", 4", 5", more ????? I know I could measure this myself with a little help from the wife standing outside with a measuring tape and me pushing the button inside, but I figure one of you have already made the effort? Care to share what you came up with?
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:13 PM   #18
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I keep seeing these posts about crushed Aqua hot exhaust pipes. I have not seen pictures of exactly where the pipe is located but I am wondering if this is the problem. I've driven my Magna into all kinds of situations including to the point where the engine cradle dragged going up or down steep things and never has my hurricane exhaust been crushed. I am wondering if it is where the aqua hot pipe is positioned and whether it can be repositioned somehow. My hurricane exhaust is located on the passenger side behind the tag axle.
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by jimterryan View Post
When I read this post I thought it referred to driving in Colo, Calif, Ariz or Nevada
THANK YOU! I came here for the smart remarks :-)
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:52 PM   #20
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Just not gettin' it, some folks

The ride height is predicted by the driveshaft angularity, after engineering and design goals are met. If you stray from the recommended ride height, you will beat the u-joints out of any diesel pusher. Whoever produced the chassis should be able to provide the ride height parameters.

So, possibly a 2" rise in the front, at the most!, or gamble with ripping out your fender well flaps, maybe an inch or so rise at the back. Too low at the back is bad too. A very good way to break a u-joint and toss your driveline into the weeds, or slash a brake/air line or slash an air spring. I've seen all of these in real life, yes real life, no anecdotal 3rd or 4th party stories.


All the luck to the OP
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:06 PM   #21
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Not sure if CC's are anything like Monaco but with the Air Leveling that I have on my Windsor the rear will not go up any where's near what the front can achieve for maximum height. I believe they have limited it to reduce any excess stress on the transmission seals and u-joints. Just guessing.

I have never had to raise my coach for any obstacle while driving however I do have to lower the coach all the way to the lowest point before backing into and under my RV port at my house in Florida.

In reference to the Aqua-Hot exhaust pipe, I remember reading about one guy who had attempted to drive over a raised railroad track crossing and ripped his entire Aqua-Hot exhaust off of the bottom of the coach plus did a lot of damage to the Aqua-Hot unit inside. Very expensive mistake.

And then there was this other guy in Oregon who attempted something similar on another raised railroad crossing but this time he bottomed out the coach enough and hung it up where the drive wheels were not even touching the pavement. Needless to say his coach was eventually destroyed.

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Old 12-23-2016, 01:53 AM   #22
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To the poster(s) suggesting the exhaust pipe not be run under the coach exposing it to crushing and saying theirs was on the pass side:

Country Coach and most other MH mfgr don't put the hydronic heat exhaust on the passenger side in order to prevent diesel exhaust pouring directly onto the "patio area". Would not be good for PR to have everyone watching the football game keel over w CO poisoning.

A better plan would have been to swap sides between the hydronic system and the propane bay, or even the wet bay. But that was not chosen.

FYI: I found a great muffler installer to fix my crushed pipe. He listened and understood the problem. However, even with his many years of custom piping and really studying the underside of my coach, he could not come up w a better design to route it where it was not at risk. He did shorten the nipple pipe coming down from the Aqua Hot and shortened the attachment brackets. This probably gave me another 1 1/2". I also had him aim the exit just a little aft to allow my wet bay door to open without rubbing my Genturi. He used tougher tail pipe brackets and bigger gauge screws. Hopefully, this will help if I drag it again.

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Old 12-23-2016, 05:06 AM   #23
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BTW, for those that have HWH systems as I do, you can Raise or Lower the coach using the appropriate buttons however it won't stay there unless you HOLD that button down. As soon as you let go of the button the coach goes right back to correct ride height.

I discovered that while backing my coach into its winter location at my recently purchased Florida beach house.

I had lowered the coach all the way down so it would clear the 12 foot RV Port height until no more air released and kept the HWH activated to "hold" it there. When I released the park brake and put the coach in reverse it turned off the HWH system and the coach went right back to ride height. I had to hold the HWH Lower button to keep the coach from rising back up to ride height.

I would assume that it would do the same when raising the coach above ride height.

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Old 12-23-2016, 11:17 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
BTW, for those that have HWH systems as I do, you can Raise or Lower the coach using the appropriate buttons however it won't stay there unless you HOLD that button down. As soon as you let go of the button the coach goes right back to correct ride height.

I discovered that while backing my coach into its winter location at my recently purchased Florida beach house.

I had lowered the coach all the way down so it would clear the 12 foot RV Port height until no more air released and kept the HWH activated to "hold" it there. When I released the park brake and put the coach in reverse it turned off the HWH system and the coach went right back to ride height. I had to hold the HWH Lower button to keep the coach from rising back up to ride height.

I would assume that it would do the same when raising the coach above ride height.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
My system does the same as yours. You can pull the fuse, as others have posted, to keep the system from going back to ride height. I traced the power from the fuse box to leveling system and installed a switch. I now adjust the height to my needs, flip the switch and move the coach. When finished, don't forget to flip the switch to return to ride height. I use this method to back my RV into my driveway (sloped upwards).

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Old 12-23-2016, 12:19 PM   #25
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My system does the same as yours. You can pull the fuse, as others have posted, to keep the system from going back to ride height. I traced the power from the fuse box to leveling system and installed a switch. I now adjust the height to my needs, flip the switch and move the coach. When finished, don't forget to flip the switch to return to ride height. I use this method to back my RV into my driveway (sloped upwards).
I don't like the idea of having to pull a fuse in my front run bay to shut down the HWH however I do like the idea of having a switch that accomplishes the same task.

Thanks.

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Old 12-23-2016, 12:33 PM   #26
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Our 04 40' Allure High Cascade does have the HydroHot exhaust on the passenger side. So not all CC's exhaust on the drivers side! I've thought a few times about working with a muffler shop to plumb it over to the driver's side, but admit I have not really looked at how feasible that would be...

Just also a reminder caution, that some coaches allow the rear to raise high enough to break a shock. (Chains and strap restrictors, were added some 2003-2005 (And very possibly more.) CC's, to protect the shocks.

The few times we need to raise, or lower the coach. I've been lucky enough to have the DW with me, and she cheerfully holds the buttons for me so I can watch road/mirrors while maneuvering.

Best to all,
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:44 PM   #27
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Don't know if any C.C came with Power Gear/ Valid air leveling systems, but to hold the height at the level you have set, you press the 'man' button again (no need to hold it down) after putting trans in gear, or taking off parking brake.
System will beep as your moving, and go to travel height on it's own, if you reach about 12 mph.
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